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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at replacing my rotors as (best I can tell) they are fairly deeply grooved.
As we can no longer buy brand new OEM ones, and have to rely on pickings of used ones from Ebay (not too sure I want to rely on used)

I found on BikeBandit a set of aftermarket ones from EBC
http://www.bikebandit.com/ebc-pro-lite-brake-rotor?m=150243

Does anyone have any experience with these? (good/bad)

Also, I was under the impression that two rotors were identical. Any idea why they list them separately and at different prices?
 

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Prowling Tiger
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I'm looking at replacing my rotors as (best I can tell) they are fairly deeply grooved.
As we can no longer buy brand new OEM ones, and have to rely on pickings of used ones from Ebay (not too sure I want to rely on used)

I found on BikeBandit a set of aftermarket ones from EBC
http://www.bikebandit.com/ebc-pro-lite-brake-rotor?m=150243

Does anyone have any experience with these? (good/bad)

Also, I was under the impression that two rotors were identical. Any idea why they list them separately and at different prices?
Oh really? I found brand new OEM rotors HERE. Part# 41080.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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i am still running stock rotors but i read up on these and they seem to be ok the difference in part numbers i am not sure
what i would do is buy the cheaper side see if it fits both sides and if there is a difference buy the other one if they are the same buy another of the same
 

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Dunno about bikes, but Im sure its the same, but I been running aftermarket rotors on my cars/trucks for years. Theyre "supposed" to be able to pass the same standards as OEM....I never had a problem.
 

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I had aftermarket rotors on my truck and they lasted a long time, but eventually fell apart due to the nasty winters up here. Bikes should do fine with aftermarket rotors as long as the surface area is the same and heat can be dissipated. But since we are slowing down with engine, fancy rotors are really mostly just for looks right? I am considering rotors since my stock one up front is pretty grooved up.

kenny
 

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Mic yours first...should have the minimum thickness stamped right on it....you may get away with cuttin yours...the VNs were pretty much made to never be cut, lol...ride and toss...
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Mic yours first...should have the minimum thickness stamped right on it....you may get away with cuttin yours...the VNs were pretty much made to never be cut, lol...ride and toss...
From Clymers Manual
Front Brake disc thickness is 4.8-5.1mm (0.189-0.200 in.)
Wear limit is 4.5mm (0.18 in.)
 

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Mic yours first...should have the minimum thickness stamped right on it....you may get away with cuttin yours...the VNs were pretty much made to never be cut, lol...ride and toss...
Did you just call me a Mic? Jokes on you I am Italian, although there is some Irish. :beerchug:.

hehe just playing, its late....

I will have to check that thickness thing, the other thing I will do is check my parts to see if i have new pads too.

I noticed some replacement rotors out there with holes in them - really not much material, wonder if that would be better for less rotating mass? I dont want to loose panic braking ability though.

Anyway that is all

kenny
 

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Prowling Tiger
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Did you just call me a Mic? Jokes on you I am Italian, although there is some Irish. :beerchug:.

hehe just playing, its late....

I will have to check that thickness thing, the other thing I will do is check my parts to see if i have new pads too.

I noticed some replacement rotors out there with holes in them - really not much material, wonder if that would be better for less rotating mass? I dont want to loose panic braking ability though.

Anyway that is all

kenny
the holes in the rotor are there to help dissipate heat faster than non-drilled rotors. Cooler pads = better braking.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh really? I found brand new OEM rotors HERE. Part# 41080.
Cool, Gonna have to bookmark that site. Though the aftermarkets are still cheaper, will probably end up going with them.

Thanks for the input guys!
 

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the holes in the rotor are there to help dissipate heat faster than non-drilled rotors. Cooler pads = better braking.
Not completely true. Depends a lot on the material. Also depends A LOT on surface area.

the big argument is 'but race car drivers have cross drilled' - that is because they are turning those suckers cherry red and must cool um off before the next time they slow.

My z rated carbon metallic pads did HORRIBLE cold, they grabbed harder then anything I ever used warm.

Ceramic suck cold.

Semi metallic is a good trade off, more dust.

I stop better with my truck with semi metallic wagner severe duty pads and a STOCK rotor then I did with the same pads and the slotted cryogenically treated ART rotors ... however throw the Z rated pads on the ART rotors do a few 60 to 10 stops to warm them up and those pads would want to lock up all 4 tires even on 37" rubber. I never got the z rated pads to 'fade' ever. Put those pads on the stock rotor and the stock rotor would be the higher wear medium and not the pad.

In performance testing I am very familiar with we actually 'warm up' the pads before doing official test runs. This is to get better deceleration numbers, and to better replicate real world.

Watching an accelerometer with the same brake pressure and cold pads you can watch the decel actually get better as the pad warms up.

To summarize: cooler pads <> better braking.

Kenny
 

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Note : holes, or at times even grooves, help channel water away from the disc surface as well. They somewhat also help clean crud like oils and grease off of the mating surface.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Note : holes, or at times even grooves, help channel water away from the disc surface as well. They somewhat also help clean crud like oils and grease off of the mating surface.
You said it before I.... That is the way I always understood it.....

:smiley_th
 

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To the OP: the EBC pads I have used in the past were good, used them on my atv with good success. I do not know about their rotors but if their pads are any indication of their rotors, they should be good.

as for rotors....

I had fancy slotted ones on my truck - I was not a big fan after just a few years

http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mercury45/2003 F250/ART Rotors/


And while we are talking about rotors, this was a fun story....

http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/mercury45/half Rotor 1977 high boy/

good times, good times

kenny
 
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