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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I got something going on with my ride, Ill start it up run to the store but when i come out it wont start (starter wont kick in), so Ill put it in gear, back into neautral, move it a little bit then it will go just like everything is normal.

I think its probably something with whatever prevents it from starting when not in neutral, but just looking for ideas.

Im totally willing to by pass that switch and even the ignition etc, just loooking for some input.
 

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That's funny, I just started having the exact same problem. If I put the bike in gear and then back into neutral, the starter switch works right away.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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The neutral switch is on the lower back part of the engine with one wire attached.
Try pulling the connector off and on a few times to clean the contacts. Apply a little dielectric grease to prevent moisture from causing future corrosion.

Also try wiggling the key back and forth in the switch a few times, then try again.

It has also been reported that the weight of extra keys jangling around on the ignition key ring can damage the switch over time, or maybe even short out on the dash.

In a pinch, pull the right side cover off and jump across the starter relay contacts with a metal tool or heavy wire to bypass all the safety switches.
 

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Does the neutral indicator light up and the bike won't turn over? Does it start if you hold the clutch in?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I dont have indicator light anymore so Im not sure on that.

the bike has never started with the clutch pulled in. Only in neautral and no clutch will it fire to start.
 

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Well I dont have indicator light anymore so Im not sure on that.

the bike has never started with the clutch pulled in. Only in neautral and no clutch will it fire to start.
humm..... for the starter to spin you have to ground the starter relay coil in the JB. There are two ways this is supposed to happen; bike in neutral or clutch pulled in. IF the starter won't spin with the clutch in, then the clutch switch or wiring is messed up. My guess is your problem would be solved by running the green wire that is attached to the neutral switch directly to ground. This will bypass the neutral switch. Of course the starter will spin with the bike in gear if you push the start button, so do this at your own risk......
 

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It has also been reported that the weight of extra keys jangling around on the ignition key ring can damage the switch over time, or maybe even short out on the dash.
Unproven myth. The lock cylinder and the switch itself are two separate units, with the switch being insulated from the lock cylinder by its plastic housing; the keys cannot short out the switch.

Also try wiggling the key back and forth in the switch a few times, then try again.
The lock cylinder actuator can (will?) cause wear in the slot where the metal actuator turns the plastic switch rotor. If the wear causes the switch to not quite make contact like it should, or short two contacts that shouldn't be making contact, wiggling the keys may cause it to line up like it should and make proper contact. (It's more likely the contacts in the switch itself are wearing out; copper is softer than the bakelite/plastic the switch housing is made of.)

BTW, this is backed up by experimenting; I got to wondering about it, and took a lock cylinder apart that I'd busted a key off in. I've also rebuilt several switches. That works for awhile...usually.

Jim
 

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Sparky!!!
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Unproven myth. The lock cylinder and the switch itself are two separate units, with the switch being insulated from the lock cylinder by its plastic housing; the keys cannot short out the switch.
how come my keys caused sparks when they hit the handle bar clamp.. also how come would the ignition key work as a grounding spot for my MM? I also have had my ignition switch apart.. multiple times to fix the week contact springs before i finally got rid of the hockey puck.. one of the best mods I ever did.
 

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how come my keys caused sparks when they hit the handle bar clamp.. also how come would the ignition key work as a grounding spot for my MM? I also have had my ignition switch apart.. multiple times to fix the week contact springs before i finally got rid of the hockey puck.. one of the best mods I ever did.
The keys/lock cylinder are a direct ground, essentially bolted to the frame. If you're getting sparks, you've got a short situation somewhere.

There is one situation where the switch could short thru the lock cylinder assembly, that dawned on me after I posted; hairline cracks in the switch housing itself. Hard to find, and hard to diagnose, but could explain why you're getting sparks. Only way to know for sure may be to replace it with a new switch.

Remember the old bakelite coils in car ignition systems? You might not be able to see or find a crack in one, but you could damn sure tell one was there when it bit ya!

And by "hockey puck" you mean??

Jim
 

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Sometimes a starter winding will get a dead spot in it, and putting the bike in gear and moving it will jog the starter off the dead spot so she'll turn over. Haven't heard of that problem in a long time, but I know it does happen from time to time. Eventually, it will call for a rebuilt starter with new windings.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Im beginning mre and more to think that the problem is in the ignition itself.

How would one go about bypassing it?
 

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why you not try,,first. when it fails,do not move it ,put it in gear or anything else. just turn slightly each way the the ignition key,then try it again. repeat a couple of times. if no joy there. 2nd,,look for green wire under back of engine,make sure it is tight and clean. i have had your problem a couple of times,,and these were the cause. good luck sorting it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thx rev, Jiggling the key does get it going

I think ditching the puck and throwing a switch would be sweet.

My concern is that at some point while in the middle of nowhere jiggling is going to stop working
 

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Sparky!!!
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by a new switch.. bypassing the switch is loads of work that unless you are cutting down the wiring harness, is not worth the gains... just get an ignition switch off of ebay, then swap pucks so you can use your original keys
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i found some directions to rebuild the switch, Im gonna give that a shot if not ill splurge on the new one.

Thanks for all the help once again guys.

Todd
 

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Sparky!!!
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Rebuilding the Ignition switch (From the Yahoo VN750 Group)

REBUILDING THE IGNITION SWITCH ON A VN750

REASON:

My 1991 Vn750 developed a "dead spot" in the ignition switch
which would cause the dash lights to flicker or go out completely.
For two years I lived with this problem and temporarily solved
it each time it would occur by slightly turning the key towards
the off position. It worsened to the point where the defective switch
would cause the bike to begin stalling - something had to be done. A
new switch is about 70 bucks, plus I didn't want to have to
deal with having to re-key my bike.

TOOLS REQ'D:

10mm socket/drive or nut driver
13mm wrench
12mm wrench
#2 phillips screwdriver
medium sized jewelers scredriver
6mm Hex driver/hex key/allen wrench
contact cleaner
small needle nosed pliers


PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the windshield (if applicable).

2. Remove the headlight.

2a. Remove the 2 phillips head screws that hold the front portion
of the headlight to the bucket - the screws are located about 4 o'clock
and 8 o'clock (be sure not to mess with the adjusting screw located
around 8:30).

2b. Remove the headlight lens and trim ring from the bucket - pull
the bottom free which should allow you to "un-clip" the top portion.
Disconnect the three prong connector from the lightbulb and place
the lens assembly somewhere safe.

3b. Using the 12mm wrench on the nuts on the insides of the bucket,
remove the 10mm hex headed bots that secure the bucket to the ears.
Carefully allow the bucket to hang down from the wires.

3. Remove the instrument cluster/gages.

3a. Remove the 2 bolts (1 on either side) of the "lights cluster".

3b. carefully remove the gauges and cluster
(allow to dangle from the wires).

3c. Remove the black rubber boot from around the outside of the
ignition switch post.

4. Remove the switch assembly - there are two socket
head cap screws under the top fork clamp - after removing the
bolts you should be able to "fanagle" the switch out of the fork
clamp.

4a. ***UPDATE***
It has been brought to my attention that if the handlebars are turned to the full left position, it is much easier to remove the switch without "fanagling".

5. Remove the two brass colored phillips screws from the plastic
body of the switch. Separate the electric switch portion from
the mechanical portion.

6. Carefully snap the plastic cover off the back of the switch -
check each of the solders carefully to make sure none have broken free.

7. While holding the switch "circuit board side up" carefully pry the
plasic body away from the circuit board where the little tang locks the
two pieces together - CAREFUL! - AS YOU SEPARATE THE TWO PIECES BE
CERTAIN NOT TO TURN OVER THE SWITCH PORTION, THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL
PIECES THAT COULD FALL OUT!!!

8. Take the switch portion (should now be free from the bike) to a
suitable location to work on it (ie. workbench).

9. One at a time, remove the contacts from the switch and slightly
stretch the compression spring open a little bit.

10. Use contact cleaner to clean each of the contact points as well
as the contact paths (on the circuit board).

REASSEMBLY:

1. Do everything you just did in the reverse order.

Hope this helps someone - kent4chaos
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yeah those are them , i tried to post a pdf but the file size was too big, seems worth a shot
 
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