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2001 VN 750: earshaved with K and N pods, MCCT conversion
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently changed the oil in the bike and, as was recommended here, filled to leave only a small bubble in the sight glass. I’m probably about 400 miles in since the change, and I noticed some small drops of oil under the bike after riding today. My first thought was blowback, but looking under the bike it seems like it’s coming from the neutral sensor. It’s a small leak, so I will likely just ride until the oil needs changed again and then swap the part. Does anyone have experience with/recommendations on a manufacturer?

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bumper Motor vehicle Rim
 

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2001 VN 750: earshaved with K and N pods, MCCT conversion
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow, looks like there's only one on eBay, a used one for $18.

Parts getting scarce now?
Yikes. That’s my real concern with the bike. At some point, all parts will have to be custom orders. The longer it’s out of production, the fewer places will see it as a legitimate investment.
 

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Yikes. That’s my real concern with the bike. At some point, all parts will have to be custom orders. The longer it’s out of production, the fewer places will see it as a legitimate investment.
I'm going to interject for a moment, and I hope I'm not stepping on Spockster's toes...

Because you said it's just a slow drip, I can't help but wonder if it's just the rubber gasket that's gone bad? Regardless,
I found all three OEM, unused, new parts online readily enough. Here's the diagram section:

Hand Gesture Finger Plant Line


Below is the part numbers with descriptions for 2001 VN750.

Font Number Parallel


Here is the OEM switch on PartZilla:

Product Rectangle Wood Font Technology


They're charging this:
Product Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel


Yeah, a little higher than the $18 used on one Ebay that Spockster found, but I'd rather have new. Less likely to ever need to replace it again. I've also negotiated cheaper and even free shipping with Partzilla in the past. You may be able to do the same.

As far as the rubber gasket, you should be able to find one locally. It not, I found it for $2.17. I found the wire lead as well for about $8. Hope this helps. EDIT: As Spockster pointed out below, the gasket is a metal crush gasket. So, I'm guessing that is most likely not the source of the leak.
 

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I'm going to interject for a moment, and I hope I'm not stepping on Spockster's toes...

Because you said it's just a slow drip, I can't help but wonder if it's just the rubber gasket that's gone bad? Regardless,
I found all three OEM, unused, new parts online readily enough. Here's the diagram section:

View attachment 55043

Below is the part numbers with descriptions for 2001 VN750.

View attachment 55044

Here is the OEM switch on PartZilla:

View attachment 55045

They're charging this:
View attachment 55046

Yeah, a little higher than the $18 used on one Ebay that Spockster found, but I'd rather have new. Less likely to ever need to replace it again. I've also negotiated cheaper and even free shipping with Partzilla in the past. You may be able to do the same.

As far as the rubber gasket, you should be able to find one locally. It not, I found it for $2.17. I found the wire lead as well for about $8. Hope this helps.
I think that might be a metal crush gasket. Can see it in the original post.

I'm pretty sure several bikes use the same switch, like other Vulcans and the Ninjas. Just cross check the part numbers.
 

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I think that might be a metal crush gasket. Can see it in the original post.

I'm pretty sure several bikes use the same switch, like other Vulcans and the Ninjas. Just cross check the part numbers.
I searched for the gasket again, and the one that I saw was on Partzilla and it looked like it was rubber. Turns out it was just a dark image of a metal crush gasket!

Here it is:
White Light Font Line Circle


But after reading what you said above, I found the same gasket, but a better pic:

Wood Font Hardwood Rectangle Magenta


So with that established, I guess it would eliminate the gasket as the problem. I can't imagine that metal gasket could leak. So, must be the switch itself.

I did find some other switches that are supposedly compatible/comparable/drop-in substitutes. Personally, I'd rather have the OEM part. (Which is exactly how I ended up spending over $200 on a gas cap, tumbler and keys.)

How exactly does that switch work, Spockster? Is it a mechanical plunger-like thing? Or does it measure pressure?
 

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I searched for the gasket again, and the one that I saw was on Partzilla and it looked like it was rubber. Turns out it was just a dark image of a metal crush gasket!

Here it is: View attachment 55047

But after reading what you said above, I found the same gasket, but a better pic:

View attachment 55048

So with that established, I guess it would eliminate the gasket as the problem. I can't imagine that metal gasket could leak. So, must be the switch itself.

I did find some other switches that are supposedly compatible/comparable/drop-in substitutes. Personally, I'd rather have the OEM part. (Which is exactly how I ended up spending over $200 on a gas cap, tumbler and keys.)

How exactly does that switch work, Spockster? Is it a mechanical plunger-like thing? Or does it measure pressure?
It's mechanical, when the bump or lobe on the shift drum hits the ball or pin on the switch, it switches to light the neutral light.

It looks like it's leaking through the top of the body, with even maybe some oil inside the wire boot on the plug. But I would still try to tighten it slightly to see if the switch is loose.
 

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It's mechanical, when the bump or lobe on the shift drum hits the ball or pin on the switch, it switches to light the neutral light.

It looks like it's leaking through the top of the body, with even maybe some oil inside the wire boot on the plug. But I would still try to tighten it slightly to see if the switch is loose.
Okay, so as long as someone were to ensure that the length of the switch, the threads, and the type of actuator are all the same, then an aftermarket one would indeed be suitable. Correct?
 

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Why even risk it not working. Get the right part whenever possible. Cheaper usually is not better.
I agree completely, but Volunteer mentioned above that there seems to be an increasing scarcity of parts. My question to Spockster was more of a hypothetical one.

Because of the part's relative low cost, I would definitely purchase a new OEM part assuming one is available. On the other hand, since this part is something that is mechanically simple, and isn't actually required for the motorcycle to function, I would have no problem using an aftermarket part if that were my only option.

If I'm not mistaken, bikes haven't always had a neutral indicator light. It's a convenience device as far as I'm concerned.
 

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I get your points. I just can’t tell you how many hours/days I’ve seen folks waste on trying to get the wrong part to work. The other day someone posted asking how to get a two prong master cylinder to work with a 3 prong connection. Maybe not a great comparison as far as the cruciality of the part in operating the bike but it highlights the point and that’s get the right part when available. KM responded before I was able to and basically said what I was thinking “get the right part and don’t try to rig the wrong one”
I wonder why the poster didn’t just graduate to the fact that this just isn’t the right part and regroup.
I understand that OEM can be pricier but motorcycling, just like any other hobby or passion, can be expensive.
 
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