Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does no one have pictures of what to exactly do? Seems like everyone does everything different and I'm just sitting here lost having no idea of where to start.. I want to do the ear shave with the the k&n pods rc2340, and the Coaster trick but idk where to start, i dont know what hose to do what with or where. I've read post after post and just ain't getting it. I was told I don't need bigger jets because when the po put on the Vance and hines pipes he also install the recommended jets for the exhaust. I have noticed that this last 200 miles the bike is starting to pop a lot on decel. Ive adjusted the mixture screw and it hasnt helped, currently at 2 1/2 turns. Can anyone one help me out here? I feel like Ill never get my bike done..
 

·
Alpha Geek
Joined
·
487 Posts
Order or make coaster plates, or stick marbles in the tubes that run to the fresh air valves on each head. If you do coasters, be sure not to bottom out the bolts in the heads. With coasters, you can yank those 1/2" or so hoses that run in a Y shape from the fresh air valves to a metal can under the seat area. That's really about all there is to it.

Yank the tank and carbs. Struggle with the big plastic air plenum and junk it. Pop pods on the carbs (there are good tutorials for getting them aligned and on correctly, takes about 5 min on once you get a feel for it).

As for jetting, check out my tutorial on that and the excel spreadsheet that calculates for you. You can go up to 3.5 turns on the screws, more actually, but if you get to 4 turns there's something else wrong like a partially plugged (white corrosion) carb passage.

Sorry, I don't have pics. I had a few videos up but someone got them taken down somehow. Must have been somethign personal, lol. Maybe even the guy who sells slide diaphragms... who knows.
 

·
Alpha Geek
Joined
·
487 Posts
And for tuning the pilot mixture screws, start at say 3 turns. Listen closely and turn 1/8 a time inward until the RPM drops and the idle gets rough. Turn up just until it smooths out. That's the leanest you want to be.

Now turn them out until the same thing happens. Idle might roughen, RPM will drop. 1/4 turn in from there is the richest point you want to be. Go somewhere in between depending on preference and popping.

Do all of this at full operating temp with the idle set at spec per the manual, and AFTER synching the carbs with a vacuum gauge. Yes, it makes a difference on this bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Awesome this was a lot of help, I know what to do with the coasters now. I know I can take the filters and plenum box out but isn't there some hoses that I need to plug and reroute on the carb? Which is which? Also add a crank case filter,..which hose is that? Thanks so much for helping me out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Yeah you'll need to take care of the carb vent hose. when you look down on the carbs in the middle there are four hoses, the two from the fuel tank on the out side and a inner pair that go into a 'T' fitting, then run to the right ear/air box. the two inner ones on the 'T' are the vent line. It needs to run to a spot that has calm air when you're going down the road, best place I've seen to put it is the hose fitting on the bottom center of the gas tank.

The crankcase vent is on the front of the front head, a 1/2 inch hose next to the front exhuast manifold going to the bottom corner of the air plenum (AKA that damn plastic box)
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top