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Discussion Starter #1
Hello again!

I recently removed my tail/brake light and turn signals, electing to replace them with a license plate frame which has all the lights built in. It really slims down the back of the bike and I really like the looks! However, I am now faced with 3 holes in the back of the fender where the old brake/tail light bolted on. Can anyone help me understand how to fill these so they can be primed and I can repaint? I've never done this before so any input, tips, or suggestions are welcome.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Clean the paint off down to the metal, for an inch or so around the holes on both sides, top and bottom of the fender. Get a body shop to fill in the holes with a MIG or TIG welder. Smooth it out and prep for repainting.

I have never done it, just my DIY side thinking out loud.

Maybe more experienced bodymen will offer other methods.
 

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Repairing holes

You can do it yourself with any mig or fluxcore welder just clean off around the holes and set the welder on low and slowly build up weld around the edge of the holes... grind it smooth prime and you should not ever know the hole were there... it is easier then it sounds....Btw Thanks to those who suggested the fix trick on the auto adjusters.. it cleared up the knock i would of swore was a rod ready to make an appearance out the side of my engine...
thanks again....
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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I would recommend mig or tig not flux core. the flux core leaves a lot of spatter around the weld.
 

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Sparky!!!
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another idea if you aren't handy with a welder.. or one isn't accessible.. use fiberglass... glass the underside of the fender as well as the out side. Then use Filler (Bondo) to fill in the low spot if necessary. although I would go the welding rout myself.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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I would be afraid the fiberglass would crack
 

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Sparky!!!
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the fiberglass wont crack because you are making a sandwich with the glass an metal, and because the glass would be less than an 1/8 of an inch thick in most places.. we are only talking of making a patch about 1/4 inc in diameter, not a whole fender.. even then you can get a whole fiberglass fender for a motorcycle that doesn't crack. I have been using a fiberglass seat pan on my bike for 2 years now without any signs of stressing or cracking. If you know how to use "Glass" properly, you won't have an issue.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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makes sense I just prefer to burn metal i guess
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, great input, thanks to everyone. But now to let me noob-ishness show through..

I borrowed a welder from a friend to fabricate my luggage rack/seat mount, I think it's a MIG welder- there is a metal alligator clip that connects to the metal and the wire fed from the gun. So I can use this to fill these holes in after clearing the paint down to the metal near the holes? I might strip the whole thing & paint another color. I've only tried to smooth one of the few welds I've made and that didn't go well. The weld was much harder than I'd expected. What is the ideal method for sanding this area smooth enough for primer?
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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4in angle grinder with a ferrous metal grinding disk. then finish with 36 grit roloc disk in an air powered angle grinder skim with bondo
 

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If you do not have a tank with co2/argon mix you are using a flux core wire. I personally think flux core is a waste of time unless you are welding thick metal 1/4 or bigger with an inadaqate sized welder like my 130 amp clarke since that type of wire gets very hot. So essentially you will blow out the hole makeing a mess of your fender. Welding sheet metal can be tuff since you can warp your fender horribly, so do like slim subjested and use fibber glass. Get the woven matt and cut a square to lay over the top of fender that has been sanded to bare metal with 80 grit. With properly mix resin and a paint brush apply just enough resin tell glass is clear. Press some wax paper on top of the resined glass an secure with tape as snug as you can get it. Flip fender over and lay a strip on the inside and brush on resin. Let it cure and remove the wax paper (resin will not adhere) sand lightly to remove rough edges and apply thin coat of glazing putty or use bondo mixed with resin to thin it out and sand smooth. Don't take this as being very easy as it is time consuming and it take a lot of experience to get body work smooth as you eyes will alway decieve you, so close your eyes then feel your work. I appologize for the mis-spelling this is from my black berry while driveing my motorcycle. J/k on the driveing part.
 

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Columbus, Ohio
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Find some sheet metal to practice on.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I have very minimum experience welding.
However, I believe when welding on sheet metal that you can use a copper backing plate to prevent blowing a bigger hole through than you started with.

Could anyone experienced with this technique please comment on its` effectiveness.
 

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it is true but copper tooling is on the high side right now
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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You don`t really need any tooling, just a piece of copper strap from a scrap dealer, at least an inch wide and a few inches long.
 

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Columbus, Ohio
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So, the copper acts like a heat sink? I know squat about welding.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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no the weld does not penetrate into the copper. allowing the pooling metal to fill easier.
 
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