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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
since this bike has sat for quite a few years Im going to be cleaning the carbs.

This morning cleaned out the tank real good put fresh gas in it bike started a couple times and would stall but the carb vent hose that goes to the right airbox was just leaking all over the right side of the bike when I tried priming and while it ran for the whole 2 minutes turns out that hose was busted.

Im doing the Coaster mod I ordered the plates off ebay and I also ordered the K&N RC-2340's and the Deka battery


I will be going to Napa tomorrow gonna change out all vacuum lines and get Tygon yellow see through fuel line, get oil/oil filter/gear oil/ Moly 60/ spark plugs carb clean etc.

1.) What filter do I need for the little vacuum hose vent that came off the carb and went to the SAI emission can?

2.) Being I will be putting on the RC 2340's what do I do with that hose that went to the right airbox? get rid of the T fitting and just use a 90 from carb to carb?

3.) I want to take out that plastic airbox since it will not be used I noticed there is another hose coming from the front cylinder in to front of airbox is that crankcase vent? what can I do with that put a filter on the end of that hose?

4.)Have any of you done the lemon juice boil method before,in cleaning carbs? This is what my buddy recommends I do

5.) What jets should I get Im near in Madisonville TX..... Not to far from Houston, this will be the first time doing carbs.... would I just be better off getting a jet kit from Factory Pro? which one and what about gaskets and Orings? does kawi have a carb rebuild kit? Im lookin at PJ's right now for the washers for the jets That lance recommended


6.) where does this rubber bushing go when I pulled off the carbs I saw this sitting in Cyl #1...




Thx,

Harold
 

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The bushing looks like the ones that fit into the fuel tank mounting tabs. There are two. If you don't see the other one, look in the radiator shroud. Don't start the bike until you find it!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
thought it was that aswell but its not I have all those, this thing is like half the size of those and its really stiff. I didnt see anywhere this thing fits on the carb, Im stumped..... what about the other stuff?
 

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Sparky!!!
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ok sounds like you are not only coastering, but doing the "Ear Shave" at the same time.

1. no filter, just use a vacuum cap located at NAPA
2. The hose that went to the right ear now goes to a spot that doesn't get a lot of air movement. I.E. the upper frame tubes fed in through the hole next to the middle fuel tank mounting bolt (also where the seat tucks in under the tank).
3. That is the crank case vent. I used a MR Gasket Crank Case Breather from NAPA.. not sure of the part number though. (also read through the Vulcan Verses, there is a list of parts in there and the Filter you seek is listed.)
4. I have heard of this, but have never needed too... a can of carb dip is more than sufficient to clean carburetors.
5. Call PJ's... they will hook you up

6. No Clue
 

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also I am using 2 crank case filters.. instead of capping off the right carb vent hose it will have a filter on it... is this not the right thing to do?.. tell me know before I get on the road...LOL.. I thought (after reading everything that one filter needed for the T hose and one for the right side vent hose.... I got the shiny chrome ones with the chrome brace from Ronayers.
 

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Sparky!!!
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right and left vent hoses tie together and run under the bike (at least on mine) and work just fine... the hose that went to the right ear needs to go into a spot where no wind can get to it... and the only place other than the ear is inside the frame... but if you can get it to run with the filter then so be it.. i couldn't get it to work with the filter... tucked the hose up and ran fine.

Your filter set up for the crank case sounds exactly what I used, but for only 4.99 to include tax, and no shipping, and it was sitting right on the shelf.
 

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I got it... I skipped a line I guess as to where the crank case filters go....that would ahve been one of those scratch your head and call someone things... still gonna try two filters though (I baught em might as well use em).. but one on the T hose that went to the right ear and one on the crank case hose and pluging the right side carb vent as instructed above.... Slim you saved me some pain Bro!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
you are onto something facelove.. the floats are stuck allowing too much fuel into the fuel bowls.
yes the floats were stuck and jets clogged the carbs were pretty bad cleaned it all up.....I did the Lemon Juice boil... WOW I should have taken before and after pics it did make the house smell like sweaty ass socks though, now just waiting on 1 more K&N 2340 the Red see through fuel line, the jets and shims from Sudco..... I got 140 F and 142 R Mains and 40 Pilots and a pack of shims I will be getting the VH cruzers in a few weeks just want to get the bike running first..... I drilled out lead plug and put mixture screw at 2.5 turns out

So will these jets be good for where Im at .... near Houston TX?

Removed the plastic airbox and coastered it today got the Deka battery on Saturday.


Tomorrow I will be cleaning every electrical connection and doing the spline lube job:smiley_th
Oh yeah tried to find a 18mm slim deepwell socket not 2 sears or the 5 part houses and 2 ace hardwares that I went to had one.... so I ordered it from sears online what a PITA


How do you gap the coils I read in another thread you said it will take a 15 minute MOD to do this.
 

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Sparky!!!
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Adjustment of pick up coils.
Remove the 3 phillips head screws on the left side. This will allow you to remove the pick up coil cover. You will need to place something under the bike to catch the oil although oil loss will be minimal. A rag was enough for me. Once the screws are removed, the cover should either come right off or you may need to pull on it. Mine was on pretty good and I had to physically pull on it to get it loose. The three screws and the cover all have separate o-rings. Once the cover is off, you will see the two pick up coils mounted to the stator cover inside two holes. They are mounted at roughly the 9:00 and 11:00 o'clock positions. Behind the stator cover, there is a rotor. You may need to rotate the rotor using a socket wrench on the shaft bolt in the center to align the small "plate" on the rotor with one of the pick up coils so that you can measure the clearance. Once you have measured one, rotate the rotor again so that you can measure the other. Gary recommends .020 clearance. Mine were about .030 or more. To adjust the clearance, remove the two screws which secure the pick up coils to the stator cover. You will most likely need to slightly elongate or slot the holes in the "ears" of the pick up coil mounting brackets. Gary indicates that a chain saw file works well for this but I used a rotary tool with a small grinding wheel on it. You will also see that there are 3 small protrusions coming out of the stator cover that each of the mounting
"ears" of the pick up coils fit into for proper placement from the factory. You will most likely have to knock the one closest to the center off to be able to make the necessary adjustment. A sharp chisel works well for this although you may want to cover the holes in the stator cover with something to prevent the little piece from falling inside the engine. Once the protrusions are knocked off and the holes are elongated, it is time to put the pick up coils back on. Set them back in their holes and start the screws. Place your .020" feeler gauge between the coil and the rotor "plate" and tighten the screws. Once you are satisfied with the clearance, tighten down the screws and do the same with the other coil. Gary recommends that you use both an impact screw driver and lock tite on the screws. I don't have an impact driver but I did use lock tite. Once both are set, put everything back together and test it out. I don't have a digital camera or I would have taken and posted some pics but you can look through the pictures in the Clymer's manual to get an idea of what I am talking about. In my manual (I assume they are all pretty much the same) the pictures on pages 296 to 302 should give you an idea of what I am talking about.
 
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