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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after 8,000 trouble-free miles, my 55 mile round trip ended at 38 miles. At an intersection I allowed the rpms to get low and she died. Normally not a problem, but when I hit the start button, nothing. Thought I had hit the kill switch, but no it's in the run position. Then I notice there are no lights on the instrument panel. Turn the ignition switch on and off several (well, many) times, and still no lights.

So tomorrow when it's light, gona pull the seat and start looking for loose connections, blown fuses and put the meter on the battery. Yeah, kinda wish now I'd made a bracket for the voltmeter I bought a few months back, but it was more fun to ride. :doh:

Any suggestions on where to start?
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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4,133 Posts
Look for blown fuse and broken main battery cables.

Sorry about your trouble. I am going to redo my set up on my volt meter. I am going to use a relay and get my reading from the battery. Now I am getting it from the light circuit and I get lower reading than at the battery.
 

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The Professor
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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #4
Look for blown fuse and broken main battery cables.



And all ground connections. :beerchug:
Yeah, gonna do that too. My son and I are taking a horse to a grandson who lives in Villa Ricca this Friday. If I don't get it figured out tomorrow, may load an iron pony in with the other one and come see you!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If that's al it is, nite, I'll be a very happy man!
 

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Concert connoisseur
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hope its just the battery, bikes should only be allowed to break down in november/ december!
 

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.. main battery cables.
Loose main cable has appended to me twice. Once due to the dealership testing the battery, but never reconnecting the cable and once on its own, due to movement in the battery. I shimmed the battery hold down bracket to eliminate the movement and put lock washers on the battery cables. So far, so good.
 

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Most likely a bad connection (hot or ground) or a bad fuse. Could be a bad battery, But they usually give you some warning before they fail completely, unless an internal connection to one of the posts broke. Not likely a serious problem. Were you able to bump start it? Jerry.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Most likely a bad connection (hot or ground) or a bad fuse. Could be a bad battery, But they usually give you some warning before they fail completely, unless an internal connection to one of the posts broke. Not likely a serious problem. Were you able to bump start it? Jerry.
Trailered it home.
 

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Any suggestions on where to start?
I have not been inside the electrics on my VN yet so I am not familiar with the geography but the battery connections would be my starting place. Is there a single main fuse in there somewhere? That would be another likely place for problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, my luck with electronics is holding; it's not the simple stuff. Battery is good, ground cables are intact and connections are tight, and no fuses in the box are blown. I'm beginning to think maybe the ignition switch? No lights come on, either in the ON or PARK position (or any other for that matter). It's like the battery has been removed.

Next step?
 

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Sparky!!!
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Give me a few minutes and I will make a jumper configuration to bypass the ignition switch for testing purposes. looks like you should in theory jump all of the ignition switch wires to white... remember this is for testing only.
 

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Premium Member
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Well, my luck with electronics is holding; it's not the simple stuff. Battery is good, ground cables are intact and connections are tight, and no fuses in the box are blown. I'm beginning to think maybe the ignition switch? No lights come on, either in the ON or PARK position (or any other for that matter). It's like the battery has been removed.

Next step?
Check the white wire with a red tracer for battery voltage at the plug on the JB .it is showing a diode in it in the schematic and it comes directly from Battery positive. if the diode is burned open you will not have power at all at the JB.Test between the wire at the plug and a hard ground,no matter key position you should have battery voltage.It probably originates at the positive side of your starter relay.you should have batter positive voltage on the yellow with red tracer on the other plug on the JB if you have power there then move on to the switch.
 

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The Professor
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I have a scoot here with the same problem, after 140+ miles stoped charging.
I tested the stator, 80+ VAC on all three legs, white wire from R/R @ R/R 13.8vdc, white wire @ JB =0.0VDC

Just for kicks swapped JB, still the same. I figure Ignition switch or bad wire, will check switch and if no problem there I will run a new wire from R/R to JB.

If that doesn't do it I will run a wire from R/R to battery. Since the R/R is its own regulated system running a feed wire to the battery and bypassing the JB should not be a problem since the system will run without a stator & R/R on a good battery.

Others have done this with no reported problems, I may have to test this because in theory it will work. It could be that bypassing the JB could be the way to go on this antiquated system?
 

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i don't think that is his problem yet... when that diode goes... something made it go, like a fried r/r or a shorted ignition switch
not saying that is the cause but it needs checked before moving on to more serious problems ,I always start at the beginning of a circuit and check the simple stuff first,I am just saying we need to know if there is power there before we proceed to more complicated issues,you are correct it may be and effect rather than the cause.And any electrical component can fail on it's own.All I am saying is check this point first ,all that it requires is to pull off the side cover.lets start with the beginning and work our way through one step at a time.It Is just the way I was taught to trouble shoot electrical problems. you are probably right but let's be sure that ever thing is right to the switch first . It'a time for me to get ready for church ,I''ll try to get back on later Good luck FC!!
 

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Check the white wire with a red tracer for battery voltage at the plug on the JB .it is showing a diode in it in the schematic and it comes directly from Battery positive. if the diode is burned open you will not have power at all at the JB.
i don't think that is his problem yet... when that diode goes... something made it go, like a fried r/r or a shorted ignition switch
What diode are you talking about!? I don't see it in my diagram!

Lance's diagnosis makes more sense to me. The white wire from the R/R should have a direct connection to the white on the JB. Somewhere it branches to the ignition switch, perhaps the problem is where the branch is.
 

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Premium Member
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What diode are you talking about!? I don't see it in my diagram!

Lance's diagnosis makes more sense to me. The white wire from the R/R should have a direct connection to the white on the JB. Somewhere it branches to the ignition switch, perhaps the problem is where the branch is.
the diode in the factory service manual p/n99924-1054-17 section15-53 shows a wire marked as color W/R with a diode going to the 8 pin plug on the JB as a matter of fact just skip that ,check with a test light to see if you have power to either side of the main power fuse on the JB ,I didn't nor did Slim just Imagine the diode in the circuit it's there if you look at the schematic not the pictorial, you will see it in the wire coming from Battery positive to the JB.I am formally schooled in reading prints and trouble shooting electrical circuits on General Electric,Toyota and Raymond electrical drive systems .I also held a job for ten years repairing these machines as a road service technician and worked as the only tech with any formal training at the local Kawasaki dealer.I also have been trained in Advanced scr and transitor drive systems from Crown,Toyota,Clark,Yale Electric Forktrucks and Demag and Wright overhead hoists,so I am not an uneducated hillbilly just making wild guesses here Papa,I speak from practical experience in the real world and am giving FC solid advice based on Fact as is Lance and Slim,you are obviously intelligent too, but IF I tell you a Rooster can pull a freight train ,start hunting for a harness,Because I ain't making it up .The key word being IF .
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #20
Check the white wire with a red tracer for battery voltage at the plug on the JB. Yes, there is voltage there. It is showing a diode in it in the schematic and it comes directly from Battery positive. If the diode is burned open you will not have power at all at the JB. Test between the wire at the plug and a hard ground,no matter key position you should have battery voltage. It probably originates at the positive side of your starter relay

You should have battery positive voltage on the yellow with red tracer on the other plug on the JB if you have power there then move on to the switch. I can't get the test light to indicate power on this line.
"Check with a test light to see if you have power to either side of the main power fuse on the JB."

If the main fuse is the 30 amp fuse at the bottom of the fuse box, then I checked the right fuse. Had some problems getting a probe into those contacts (flattened a solid copper wire and inserted) but never got an indication of power, regardless of key position.

What next?
 
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