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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

So, I've pulled my engine to replace some leaking gaskets. I took a look at my stator and saw some sticky goo on it that doesn't wipe off. It almost looks like the epoxy partially melted or oil got cooked on to it. Anyhow, resistance checks for the windings are within shop manual specs and they are open to the case. Before I pulled the engine, the electrics appeared to be working fine (once I got a MF battery in it). My LEDs (tail and turn lights) pulsate at idle a bit. This is the original 1986 stator 24,000 mi.

So, judging by the picture, do the coils in the upper part of the picture look bad enough to replace the stator? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.



Best Regards,
Chris

Arvada, CO
VROC No. 7348

E-Mail: [email protected]
My Bike Site: http://home.comcast.net/~countersteer

1986 VN 750 Ebony
Ear Shave & Coasters
Vance & Hines Cruizers
Progressive 440 Shocks - 12½"
Race-Tech Cartridge Emulators
Race-Tech Fork Springs
Goodridge Black Stainless Steel Brake Hoses
Ken Sean Chrome Cruiser Mirrors
All Clear Turn Signal Lenses
Clear Brake Light Lens
All Radiantz 1.85" Hardwire LED Lights
Radiantz Chrome Billet LED License Plate Frame
Kuryakyn Run-Turn-Brake Controller
Kuryakyn Solid-state Flasher Unit
Interstate Maintenance-free Battery
 

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Once Banned
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If you went to the trouble of pulling the engine for leaky gaskets, then you should replace your stator. Sure, it might have 10K left on it. But why waste the time you spent yanking the engine? Replace the regulator while you're at it.

As to the pulsating lights, at first I thought that was the regulator. I'm not sure what the threshold voltage is before the regulator starts doing its job, so it could be the stator. But it doesn't really matter, 'cause at 24K original on the stator, you ought to replace it while you got the engine apart. And get the regulator while you're at it. It's not unusual for the next weaker link to blow out, and that would be the r/r, so replace both at the same time.
 

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If the stator is good, instead of replacing the stator, look into getting a toc cover that will allow for a stater replacement without pulling the engine.
 

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I believe the 86 stators are some of the strongest ones out there. A few of the members have almost 60,000 miles on their original stator before replacement. In fact I have one in my 2000. I also replace the stator cover with the TOC cover so when it does eventually go I will not have to pull the engine. It will be a 1 hour job instead with most of that fishing the wires through the grommet.
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/Side_Cover_mod.htm
I highly reccommend this for anyone that plans on keeping their bike. You have to pull the engine to install, which makes this time the best time to consider it.
A couple of other things I would check while the engine is out.. The balancer.. the rubber inserts do deteriate with age and heat and may start to break down. Make sure they are still healthy. and the circlips on the shifter shaft. If the inner circlip has beem knocked loose in a fall there will be some in and out play in the shufter shaft. Also this is a good time to replace the oil seal around the shifter shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you very much for your replies.

The common thought in your answers (and the ones I've received from VROC) seems to be "replace it while I've got the engine out". Others has also mentioned TOC's cover mod especially since I already have the engine out, but I've also read of concerns about loosing some some heat-sink capacity.

I also pulled the left counter-balancer to check those rubber parts. One of the rubber "star-shaped" pieces is loose, so I'll replace those two. The round bumpers (with the metal center ring) seem too loose for my liking, but I don't know if that is normal. So I ordered 1 of those just to check the fit.

Dianna, I appreciate you sharing that the '86 model uses an especially stronger stator; I never heard that before. It also adds to my indecision ;) .

I have been leaning towards replacing the stator and R/R since I have the engine out, but passing on the cover mod. I must admit that pulling the engine was far easier than pulling the carbs. I'm guessing that it didn't take me much more than an hour to do. I think it's easier for me than most others on account of not having ears, intake boots, and air box (plenum) to wrestle with. I chose to disconnect the throttle cables at the carbs, too.

I also like the idea of putting in the ElectroSport products just because I feel like it's an improvement. You all know . . . putting new stuff on/in our bikes is great :D

Best Regards,
Chris

Arvada, CO
VROC No. 7348

E-Mail: [email protected]
My Bike Site: http://home.comcast.net/~countersteer

1986 VN 750 Ebony
Ear Shave & Coasters
Vance & Hines Cruizers
Progressive 440 Shocks - 12½"
Race-Tech Cartridge Emulators
Race-Tech Fork Springs
Goodridge Black Stainless Steel Brake Hoses
Ken Sean Chrome Cruiser Mirrors
All Clear Turn Signal Lenses
Clear Brake Light Lens
All Radiantz 1.85" Hardwire LED Lights
Radiantz Chrome Billet LED License Plate Frame
Kuryakyn Run-Turn-Brake Controller
Kuryakyn Solid-state Flasher Unit
Interstate Maintenance-free Battery
 

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Once Banned
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2,125 Posts
Well, to add to your indecision, if it were me, I'd do like Dianna says and put in the TOC cover and keep the stator you got. It's a bit pricey, but it should add to the resale value. Then go ahead and replace the r/r. A new r/r will just be insurance to help prevent the death of the old stator. But, if you choose the TOC cover, and decide to keep the old r/r, then fuse the stator. 15 amp fuses. There, that should help you NOT decide what to do...
 
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