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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I finally got around to testing the stator and r/r. The bullet connectors on the three yellow stator wires were hard to come apart. I thought I was doing something wrong such as maybe these aren't the wires after all. But they were. I guess heat must've shrunk the plastic sleeves. I had to slice them open to finally get the connectors to be able to come apart.

Anyways, I was very careful when doing the resistance test on the wires not to have them touch any metal surfaces. Here are the results, with bike warmed up:

between any two yellow wires: 2.0 - 2.4 ohms
between yellow and ground: .8 ohms, 2.1 ohms, .4 ohms

As for the r/r: I know the test calls for the bike to be warm but I decided to do a simple preliminary continuity test on the leads with the rectifier cold. I did the "B to M", "M to B", "G to A1, A2, A3"...etc. tests and I got no readings whatsoever.

Search Goddess
2,002 Posts
Actually, the stator test is the one that you need to do with the bike warm.
I haven't seen where it makes a difference for the R/R.
the R/R test is as follows
Be sure to set the hand tester to the 100 ohm range and zero
the meter(Not necessary on a digital meter)

Make sure you have good contact with the probes.

Check the resistance between the regulator/rectifier terminals
as follows(there is a chart and picture in the manual which I
cannot reproduce right now but I will try to put it in words
for you)
Connector with pins facing you and notch at bottom

A1 A2 A3
--- --- ---

--- --- ---


A1-A3 All Alternator Terminals

G = Ground M = Monitor B = Battery
(Hope that came across right)

Measure B to M - should read infinity
Measure B to G - should read infinity
Measure B to A1, A2, A3 - should read infinity
Measure M to B - should read > 10K ohm
Measure M to G - should read > 10K ohm
Measure M to A1, A2, A3 - should read > 10K ohm
Measure G to B - should read between 0.4 to 2K ohm
Measure G to M - should read between 1 to 5K ohm
Measure G to A1, A2, A3 - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)
Measure A1, A2, A3 to B - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)
Measure A1, A2, A3 to M - should read infinity
Measure A1, A2, A3 to G - should read infinity

If there is more resistance than the specified value, the unit has an
open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means
the unit is shorted, and must be replaced.

Stator test is very simple
Unplug and test the three yellow stator wires;
they should be .34 to .52 ohms between any
combination of the yellow wires, with no shorts to

The no shorts to ground is the one that is important on a warmed up bike

74 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Stator test procedure - thanks - thats the one

Dianna: Thanks for the procedures. Yeah, those are the tests I performed; I've seen that procedure posted by you, and others, numerous times:notworthy.

theauhawk: sorry man, my bad :BLAM:. Yeah, I posted those results in the hopes someone would confirm the state of my stator.

I tested the stator with the bike warmed up. Based on the results I got I would say my stator needs to be replaced. What do you guys think ?

As for my R/R...I've redone the tests 'cause I screwed it up the first time. This time I've checked and double checked and then checked again just because playing with a multimeter makes me feel smart. Its screwed up, with a capital F, no question about it. I get readings in the mega-ohms. My digital multimeter automatically picks the correct range (maybe all digital ones do, i dunno) so I'm not misreading things.

Thanks again,
Luis Pereira

Premium Member
1,766 Posts
Luis -

Your stator is toast. Any yellow lead to ground should be infinite.

It is shorted to the core.

Time to plan replacement.

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