Joined
·
2,570 Posts
that seat reminds me of the seats on the old military motorcycles..
looks good there too
looks good there too
my freebie 1987 VN750A build
41 - 60 of 80 Posts
Joined
·
56 Posts
Well, I like it cause it looks old and looks bad ass. If I want streamlined - I'll ride my nc700x.
epper:Plus this approach will cost me like $120 total. Why lay out 5-6 hundred dollars for an aftermarket seat that pretty much looks like the stock one. IMO the stock seats are too big for the bike and look goofy. The overall size of this bike looks too small for two up riding anyway - to my eye anyway. But perfect for a small relatively powerful solo seat bobber. You CAN do two up - but it don't look right IMO unless you are really small. I am 6'4" and weigh like 250. If I wanna go two up I have a CB900C for that. Just my opinion tho.
Back to the build - fabbing the seat spring mounting plate:
Joined
·
56 Posts
Time for an update...
finished fabing and fitting the seat plate. I used all thread and nuts to mount the seat spring. I love an industrial raw machine look. I think I achieved that.
The seat plate has a forward tab that goes deeply into the seat tab receptacle. Then a longer than normal tank bolt puts pressure down on the front of the plate and locks it into place. Rear is held on with c clamps around a cross member. It is very strong.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
This is outrageously different and you will either love it or hate it. As high and back as the seat sits - it feels perfect for my 6'4" frame.:rockon:
finished fabing and fitting the seat plate. I used all thread and nuts to mount the seat spring. I love an industrial raw machine look. I think I achieved that.
The seat plate has a forward tab that goes deeply into the seat tab receptacle. Then a longer than normal tank bolt puts pressure down on the front of the plate and locks it into place. Rear is held on with c clamps around a cross member. It is very strong.
This is outrageously different and you will either love it or hate it. As high and back as the seat sits - it feels perfect for my 6'4" frame.:rockon:
Joined
·
628 Posts
That's freaking cool. Are you going to put some kind of bump stop on the bottom of the seat? That thing bottoms out enough, you will know about it.
There's a good bit of space in the middle. Thought about putting some kind of case in there? An old 30 cal ammo can would be the sheit.
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
There's a good bit of space in the middle. Thought about putting some kind of case in there? An old 30 cal ammo can would be the sheit.
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Joined
·
56 Posts
yeah - I noticed the closeness there. It does not hit if I sit and kinda bounce on it. But - under severe road conditions it may hit. I thought of a planned "dent" rolled into the fender or a cut out re-weld in that area. There is over an inch of clearance. We will see.
Joined
·
628 Posts
Hopefully it isn't a problem. The way it looks in the pictures, I think that it might hit the frame before it gets to the fender. I had to deal with that area when I was fitting my meanie seat and ended up doing some creative cutting.
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
just happened across this video on YouTube a bit ago. thought the seat looked familiar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXQmjc_BuK8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXQmjc_BuK8
Joined
·
3,027 Posts
Just my opinion. I was really liking it until the tractor seat. Just doesn't look right to me. You can get smaller "bobber" seats that I think would look better.
I love the look otherwise, but a couple of things are going to cause you problems. I found out that flat paint (especially a lighter color) and whitewalls just don't work well on motorcycles that actually get ridden. The whitewalls get dirty real quick, and just touching flat paint will leave spots on it.
I love the look otherwise, but a couple of things are going to cause you problems. I found out that flat paint (especially a lighter color) and whitewalls just don't work well on motorcycles that actually get ridden. The whitewalls get dirty real quick, and just touching flat paint will leave spots on it.
Joined
·
56 Posts
I have three bikes. This is going to be more of a parade/event bike. I have other bikes for "riding". If this was going to be my daily driver I would not of used that paint or seat. You are right of course. Flat light paint and whitewalls are a bitch to keep clean. The tractor seat plate can be taken off with the seat and spring still attached - 5 blots/nuts - and the stock seat installed in minutes.
As far as the finish goes - I let bikes I rebuild age naturally. Gives the bike it's own "patina" don't cha know. Chrome and fancy paint don't sell me on a bike. Too hard to keep clean. How it runs does tho.
As far as the finish goes - I let bikes I rebuild age naturally. Gives the bike it's own "patina" don't cha know. Chrome and fancy paint don't sell me on a bike. Too hard to keep clean. How it runs does tho.
Joined
·
56 Posts
Sooooo - it has been too hot in Florida to work in the garage on a bike since I already have two other running bikes. But recent cool rains have inspired me. Finally split the crank case. Her is the culprit. BUT - it already has the 8mm shift shaft and the p/n 13161 Lever Comp Change Shaft is bent too! WTF - the po must of stomped on that sucker like crazy to break and bend it like that.
![]()
So - now I got this big puzzle to put back together. What a PITA ordering all the gaskets I need. Wish someone had a kit.
![]()
![]()
![]()
BTW - I read the thread on the guy that claims he replaced this tie rod without splitting the case. I call shens. The way the part is torqued down tight WITH locktite - well I had to use a vice and it was still hard to break that part free.
So - now I got this big puzzle to put back together. What a PITA ordering all the gaskets I need. Wish someone had a kit.
BTW - I read the thread on the guy that claims he replaced this tie rod without splitting the case. I call shens. The way the part is torqued down tight WITH locktite - well I had to use a vice and it was still hard to break that part free.
Joined
·
16,274 Posts
Wow that takes a lot more room then my VP's ironhead.by the way love the seat
Joined
·
16,274 Posts
Good answerI have three bikes. This is going to be more of a parade/event bike. I have other bikes for "riding". If this was going to be my daily driver I would not of used that paint or seat. You are right of course. Flat light paint and whitewalls are a bitch to keep clean. The tractor seat plate can be taken off with the seat and spring still attached - 5 blots/nuts - and the stock seat installed in minutes.
As far as the finish goes - I let bikes I rebuild age naturally. Gives the bike it's own "patina" don't cha know. Chrome and fancy paint don't sell me on a bike. Too hard to keep clean. How it runs does tho.
Joined
·
56 Posts
So I ordered the parts for the Vulcan engine overhaul. All are for the VN750 except the first three. The oil filter, air filter and oil plug washers are for the 8000 mile maintenance on my 2012 Honda NC700X. So take $50 off for that and the rebuild costs me: $375. The shift shaft tie rod I already had, and the big side gasket on the right I already had, the PO gave them to me. I DID have to buy the parts that go on either end of the tie rod though. They were twisted like crazy. Someone stomped on that shift lever HARD!
Got the parts at cheapcycle parts.com cause their fiches are easy to use. Not necessarily the cheapest on all things but they ship quick and usually have everything . Here is what I got.
Item Name Quantity Total Price
Filter, Oil (Toyo Roki) 1 $11.31
Washer, Drain Plug (12 Mm) 2 $1.98
Element, Air Cleaner 1 $37.38
Gasket,Cylinder Base 2 $17.08
Gasket Head 2 $51.38
Gasket,Generator Cove 1 $15.65
Gasket,Transmission Cover 1 $6.90
Gasket,Clutch Outside 1 $9.54
Seal Oil,Tb13225.5 1 $5.55
Ring O 1 $12.54
Seal Oil,Rvc2 5.5 X8.5 X8.3 1 $4.49
Gasket,Exhaust Pipe 2 $13.00
Gasket,Exhaust Manifold 2 $15.96
Ring O,Head Cover Bolt 6 $30.90
Gasket,Cylinder Head 2 $50.88
Ring Snap 2 $6.00
Circlip Type C,13 Mm 2 $6.00
Lever Comp Change Sha 1 $40.17
Lever Assy Change 1 $32.55
Damper 4 $35.12
Damper 2 $21.04
Subtotal: $425.42
Shipping: $11.99
Summer 2013 Free Shipping Offer: -$11.99
Sales Tax: $0.00
TOTAL: $425.42
Got the parts at cheapcycle parts.com cause their fiches are easy to use. Not necessarily the cheapest on all things but they ship quick and usually have everything . Here is what I got.
Item Name Quantity Total Price
Filter, Oil (Toyo Roki) 1 $11.31
Washer, Drain Plug (12 Mm) 2 $1.98
Element, Air Cleaner 1 $37.38
Gasket,Cylinder Base 2 $17.08
Gasket Head 2 $51.38
Gasket,Generator Cove 1 $15.65
Gasket,Transmission Cover 1 $6.90
Gasket,Clutch Outside 1 $9.54
Seal Oil,Tb13225.5 1 $5.55
Ring O 1 $12.54
Seal Oil,Rvc2 5.5 X8.5 X8.3 1 $4.49
Gasket,Exhaust Pipe 2 $13.00
Gasket,Exhaust Manifold 2 $15.96
Ring O,Head Cover Bolt 6 $30.90
Gasket,Cylinder Head 2 $50.88
Ring Snap 2 $6.00
Circlip Type C,13 Mm 2 $6.00
Lever Comp Change Sha 1 $40.17
Lever Assy Change 1 $32.55
Damper 4 $35.12
Damper 2 $21.04
Subtotal: $425.42
Shipping: $11.99
Summer 2013 Free Shipping Offer: -$11.99
Sales Tax: $0.00
TOTAL: $425.42
41 - 60 of 80 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!