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Discussion Starter #1
I went for a ride today with no problems. WHen I get home I park the bike for 10 minutes and go back out to go for another ride. Bike starts no problem It wont shift out of first. as soon as I let the clutch out the rpm shoots up to 5000 but the motor is not going 5000. and bike stalls. I let the bike sit for 10 minutes running and problem went away. When I got back from another ride same thing but this time it wont go out of first with out stalling.

As soon as I let the clutch out a hair it stalls. any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No and I thought off that and tried to put it up and down a few times. but that is what our is acting like.
 

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Giggity!
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Recently someone had that kickstand switch go bad. I don't remember the post or the conclusion but, I think the wires needed to be connected to test/bypass the switch. It's worth checking at least. The high rev has me curious though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
But it is not actually revving the needle its just jumping
 

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Im not sure if you can compare this, but I had a 87 Camaro that was running rough and the tach was all over the place with engine staying the same. My book told me to check for leaking spark plug/coil wires. I started the car at night and it was a light show under the hood sparks jumping everywhere mainly from the coil wire. This almost dont sound like it could be your problem if your tach is just jumping to 5000 when you let out the clutch, that has me stumped. But something to think about. If you try this make sure you expose the coils so you can see. FYI my schematic shows the tach wired to the front ignition coil.
 

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Sparky!!!
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clutch safety switch, side stand switch, and neutral switch are all tied into the ignition control box... theroteically if the Dieode inside the JB goes bad, it would cause the same symptoms you are describing...

...THE FALLOWING IS FOR TEST PURPOSES, PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE THE BIKE IN THIS CONDITION....

unhook the green wire coming out of the back side of the transmission, and place it to ground.
start your bike and see if you are still having issues. if this works, then you have a bad diode in the jb... if it does the same thing, start looking at the ignition coil as a possible problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Anyone else? I think I am going to start with the kickstand switch. If not I think I have to take it to a shop since im not real mechanical.
 

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NOOOOOOO! do not just take it to a shop, please. You will have much less heartache if you attempt simple fixes yourself, a multimeter and small hand tools are all that is necessary for simple electrical problems please use the forum first, people here know more than any shop and have an easy solution. I have solved many problems following advice here first. Access to the electric on this bike is relatively easy a few screws gets you to most important electrics.
 

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NOOOOOOO! do not just take it to a shop, please. You will have much less heartache if you attempt simple fixes yourself, a multimeter and small hand tools are all that is necessary for simple electrical problems please use the forum first, people here know more than any shop and have an easy solution. I have solved many problems following advice here first. Access to the electric on this bike is relatively easy a few screws gets you to most important electrics.
x2 as far as taking advice from the forum and trying to do the fix yourself. I also think it adds to your riding pleasure if you know you did your own work on the bike. JMO :beerchug:
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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It is also a confidence builder if you get to know what wires go where and what they do. I have always driven pre-owned vehicles, and every one has had it`s own idiosyncrasies which I learned to deal with close to home, then they were not a big problem on the road.

Just because you do not consider yourself to be "real mechanical" right now, does not mean that you can`t learn. We all started knowing nothing at some point. A basic toolkit, multimeter, and a few specialty tools as you become comfortable to tackle more advanced maintenance, will cost you less than a few hours labor in the mechanics shop.

Here are a couple of links for encouragement:

http://lifeisaroad.com/wrenching.html
http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm
 

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Sparky!!!
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I had the same problem you were having... my post earlier is how I found my problem... I won't tell you how I fixed it.. but for your issue, test like I said earlier, and if the problem goes away, get a new Fuse Box (AKA Junction Box, JB). if my test doesn't work, then you have a bad connection on the clutch switch, a cracked Coil, or worse case senerio a cracked Ignition Control Box.
 

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Also get yourself a good maintenance manual, Ive seen a clymers manual mentioned on here alot, I found a free one (not clymers) I down loaded from a post on here. OLHOSS mentioned a tool set, keep in mind its all metric. The maintenance cost at a shop your looking at 70-100$$ per hour. that can dig into the ol wallet some. Slim mentioned the possibility of bad diodes inside your junction box. I found in the manual I have a way to test them. I took a couple photos of the computer screen that might help you out. Ive never done this test but it seems pretty simple. Item 28 is the diodes that control your safety devices. One photo explains "resistance should be zero in one direction and infinate in the other" what that means is the positive meter lead on one pin, the negitive on the other, then swap them. Not to sure about the zero resistance in the one direction I would think you would have some resistance. A good meter will have a diode test function. Plus im sure you can find something online of how to test diodes. Good luck and welcome to the forum future mechanic.

DSC_0565.jpg

DSC_0566.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have great news Today I was able to look at the bike finally and I found that the problem is in the kickstand switch. The problem is that the plunger that goes in is bent so it does not slide in and out. Not sure if I am going to get a new switch, leave it, or bypass it.


I am so glad that it was a simple fix but am very grateful for all of the kind people on here that wanted to help.

Now my new problem is that my speedometer stopped working on my ride today. Got to love it.
 

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my rides PO "fixed" the problem by bending the mount for the switch outward so that it no longer contacts the stand. 10 seconds with a vise grips. (yeah, I've left it that way)
 

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I had to replace the wheel gear and wheel drive on mine last year. Small sand/dirt fragments had got in the worm gears, seized it up and that bent the wheel drive cup. $100 in parts
 

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Ditto on the DIY first b4 crying uncle n 'shopping' your bike. My latest was the rear brake light. Foot was fine, hand was not activating. Took the switch off, seen some of that common corrosion. Did a little clean up. Lights up just fine. My next issue is similar to the orig. post. I can start bike up fine.. soon as i try to pull out in first. Dies. I suspect the kickstand switch. I noticed it was bent downward (not contacting like its intended). My guess is some dirt/grime is fouling it. Always something but thats the "fun" of having an older bike.
 
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