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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK fellas.....Ever since I bought this bike almost 2 years ago the clutch has an issue when it gets warm(engine temp) it will slowly pull the bike at standstill or stopped at traffic lights.....this is with the clutch lever pulled all the way in and bike in 1st gear. There are times I can stop at lights....on a incline and not even hold my brake to keep from rolling backwards because the clutch will be grabbing enough to keep it from rolling. OK ...so you say adjust the clutch.....My friend and I did....I now have it to where I just barely begin to pull the clutch lever and the clutch releases from the trans......yet it still does it at lights.....OK.....so you say your clutch cable is streached...get a replacement....I did that too. I replaced my cable that had 24,000 mi on it with one that looks new from a '04 parts bike with 8,500 miles on it. Yet it still grabs when stationary.....some times I have to kick it into Neutral at traffic lights because it is grabbing so much it pulls the rpm's down to like 600 since I am holding the brake. Once in Neutral.....no grabbing......and this problem does not occur all the time either???????? The clutch is an OEM one,...... but I have a Barnett Kevlar clutch to put in it this upcoming winter....maybe that will fix the damn thing......Who Knows? I also run Chevron Delo 15W-40 Diesel oil....which is recommended on here as being the best grade for our bikes......Please guys.....any ideas at all on this one? I have been fighting this for 2 years now........I want it to STOP! .....and NO this is NOT the coffee grinder noise.....I know what that is......coffee grinder only happens when it's under 50 degrees out for me.
 

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Did you clean the gear plates?
 

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mine was doing that and i adjusted the clutch and it still did it. then i actually read the service manual and i was adjusting the clutch incorrectly. there are 3 places, the arm on the end at the clutch housing, the thumbwheel on the clutch lever and there is another adjustment in the middle of the cable. i didn't even know there was an adjustment in the middle of the cable! i followed the instructions exactly as in the service manual and the clutch worked fine after that. if you didn't adjust with the adjustment in the middle of the cable that might be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will have to talk to my friend and see what all he did when he helped me adjust my clutch. I know we had to move the arm at the end of the cable because the original cable was so streached that it seemed that the new cable was way too short......but that wasn't the case because it came straight off an '04 vn750. I will do some research with him.....we may have not adjusted it in the middle of the cable......we did know about the midle cable adjustment though.
 

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i messed with the arm also.. but after reading the manual, the arms slot is supposed to line up with the ridge on the clutch case. when i moved the arm the problem got worse. i ended up putting it back like the manual said and it adjusted better. anyway, hope thats your problem because its an easy fix. if you don't have the manual, there is a link to it somewhere on the verses.
 

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Why wait till winter to replace the clutch? It is a fairly easy proceedure.

I would also switch oil. I never heard of anyone using Chevron .... Not saying it is the cause, but eliminating it from the equation will simplifiy finding the cause.

Your clutch plates could be warped, worn, and the springs could be fatigued or even broken.

If you adjusted the clutch so you only had to move the lever a tiny bit to activate it.... You might have glazed your plates or fried them.

Switch oils then....

Try adjusting the clutch per the manual as electum mentioned, and if that does not work, install the new plates, NEW springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Yes....I think it is a cable adjustment/warped plates issue. I have tried Shell Rotella 15-40......Mobil Delvac 15-40...and now Chevron Delo 15-40.......trying to see if that was the problem........Different Diesel oil brands have not changed a thing, when I said "recommended oil from here", I meant 15w-40 Diesel oil in general......you are correct though.....I may just change out the clutch plates and springs in the upcoming weeks.....since I already have the stuff to do it. I do thank you though for your suggestions. I adjusted the clutch lever to only move a tiny bit to RELEASE the clutch.....meaning yes glazing could have occured.....but I would think that by doing that the clutch would be very far separated ....so that there would be no dragging with clutch lever pulled all the way to the handlebar grip. I am still learning the idea of how clutches work. I wish I could find a computer 3D image of a working Clutch/gear changing for a motorcycle to get a better idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks Knifemaker........That was an awesome find! For me that 6 minute video was worth a Million words! I totally understand how a motorcycle clutch works now. I see where improper adjustments and warped/glazed plates will cause all this trouble. I noticed yesterday where after sitting at a long traffic light I tried to put the trans into Neutral......and it wouldn't go.....so I rev the engine up to 1500 - 2000 rpm......then it would pop right in to Neutral. So yes obviously I have clutch plates that are not completely coming apart......and I understand the cold start "coffee grinder" noise much better . I will be looking into this very soon. If this OEM clutch gets damaged(which it probably already is) that's not so bad......I just don't want to destroy my new Barnett Kevlar Clutch or anything else in the transmission. Thanks for your help!
 

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I'm being lazy here, and knowlingly admit it as if I was totally interested in the answer to the question, I'd go look it up myself...but for the sake of posterity, do the Vulcan's not have an adjustment to the clutch push rod in addition to all the cable adjusters?

All my old Kawi (KZ era) bikes & even my TW200 (also an 80's technology bike) had a clutch push rod adjustment that was available even when the cable adjuster failed to do the job adequately. It was specifically for times like this when the clutch friction play got too extreme to be accommodated by cable adjustments.

Granted, the situation presented itself differently, i.e. freeplay was within spec, but when you hammered it the clutch would slip, and not at all the situation that Bret is dealing with. But all this got me thinking about a push rod & lock nut to manually adjust the clutch throw...

So, does the VN750 have this adjustment?

In any case, sounds like warped plates to me...
 

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I`m no expert, but I can`t find any mention of an adjustment for the clutch push rod in the Clymer manual. Nothing on any diagrams or pictures either.

Only the cable adjustments.

I don`t recall this topic coming up before either, in the almost 3 years I have spent most of my waking hours on this board.
 

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I don`t recall this topic coming up before either, in the almost 3 years I have spent most of my waking hours on this board.
Somehow, I think this response is more reassuring (and candid) than it should be...
 

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Somehow, I think this response is more reassuring (and candid) than it should be...
Yes, I spend too much time in my Easy Boy chair with the TV and laptop in front of me.
With a badly broken leg that has been very slow to heal I haven`t been able to walk very well, or carry much.
I had an accident in June 2008 (See sigline), and 6 operations since, so have been on disability.
Just had another semi-related surgery for hip replacement too.

I have no garage to work in, or I could have done all the maintenance, service and mods I have learned of here, while sitting on a mechanics stool.

So I get my daily entertainment and motorcycle fix online.:smiley_th

Hope I can find a new job soon when the doc says I can go back to work.:)
 
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