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acct

did the acct mod today bike sounds great but i have a ? did anyone run into the problem of the overflow bottle hitting the hex nut and it not wanting to go back on. any info would help.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Longer bolt and either a spacer or some washers will work
 

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acct

i followed your thread step by step yesterday and man does she pur like a kittin now thanks for the info that tick was killin me lol
 

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Here's a quick before and after for anybody curious. It gives you an idea of what a loose cam chain can sound like, as well as a clip of how effective this very easy and inexpensive repair truly is.


Hope that helps!
 

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Nice caleb! Two great comparison videos, would make a nice sticky post by themselves. You sure got that mcct job done in good time. (hoping mine goes that well)

Only thing I really hear now is the slight rocker arm tick, and I wouldn't worry about it, a tad loose is better than a tad tight on rocker arms. I hear the same tick on mine if I use the stethoscope.
 

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Waiting for my battery to charge right now... to head back to the store... need a 10mm crescent wrench for this mod since my ratchet head is too large to reach the ACCT bolts. So, while i am waiting for that, just thought i'd ask...


In the OP, it calls for two rubber washers. In the photos though, it looks like there's a metal washer in between the two rubber washers and another outside by the nuts. That makes a lot more sense anyway, but just asking since i didn't bother to get metal washers while at the store this morning. May as well get them on the 2nd trip. :)
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Waiting for my battery to charge right now... to head back to the store... need a 10mm crescent wrench for this mod since my ratchet head is too large to reach the ACCT bolts. So, while i am waiting for that, just thought i'd ask...


In the OP, it calls for two rubber washers. In the photos though, it looks like there's a metal washer in between the two rubber washers and another outside by the nuts. That makes a lot more sense anyway, but just asking since i didn't bother to get metal washers while at the store this morning. May as well get them on the 2nd trip. :)
To the best of my memory, your description of the pic is correct.
 

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To the best of my memory, your description of the pic is correct.
okies, so, then i also need to get that #12 x 5/8's metal and rubber.

*IF* i am picturing this on the extra space in my head correctly:

from the external hole of the CCT goes...

a 5/16 rubber washer to seal the hole "more or less" for the most part.
a 5/16 metal waster to stiffen that up
a #12 x 5/8 rubber washer to seal the gap between the first set of washers' inner hole and the main bolt

Is that the purpose of that #12 x 5/8?

. . . because i might need to substitute it with something else.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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okies, so, then i also need to get that #12 x 5/8's metal and rubber.

*IF* i am picturing this on the extra space in my head correctly:

from the external hole of the CCT goes...

a 5/16 rubber washer to seal the hole "more or less" for the most part.
a 5/16 metal waster to stiffen that up
a #12 x 5/8 rubber washer to seal the gap between the first set of washers' inner hole and the main bolt

Is that the purpose of that #12 x 5/8?

. . . because i might need to substitute it with something else.
Not sure....Need some help here :|
 

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Not sure....Need some help here :|
okies, well, went to Lowes, picked up a crescent wrench for the cover nuts. They never heard of a #12 anything. So had to guess the purpose and going to use a 3/4 metal washer with a 3/16 inside grommet which should hug the center bolt.

Got home, had enough light to get the cover nuts off and the rear bolt coming off the chassis also supports the oil line and has a tab for a support on that. Going to read this entire thread again to see how to pull that off because it was too stiff to move by hand. Is it soft enough to pry off with a flat-head screwdriver without messing it up?
 

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update

Okay, working at night, finally got the ACCT off the bike. Had to use a probe ( dental type ) to get under that tab on the oil line before i could wedge a flat head under it, then used the flat head twist-style to raise the tab off the ACCT which was the only little fulcrum possible back there.

Got it inside to my desk, got the retainer off, pulled it out of the housing... trying to figure it out, found the screwing action with the spring inside. Figured that was the spring that had to come out so pulled that off and set it aside, then wanted to check out the length of this 6mm bolt and figure out how the MCCT mod was supposed to work... eventually i saw the larger spring inside the housing. Ahhhh, okies, so let me put the little spring back where it belongs... erm...

guess what part decided to grow legs? No kids here, no pets. So now i am doing a major sweep of this entire area looking for the little spring. But.... in the meantime... after giving up "for now"...

Went to check out my only alternative for people that have springs that wander off... the TOC site has a TEFLON ( yup, you heard it right ) alloy finish on their MCCT which looks REAL simple, like, erm... a bolt, the base of the housing and a mushroom somehow attached to the other end... oh, and the nut to keep it in position ( i am guessing ).

So, now i am thinking ( which everyone knows is dangerous ). I have the mushroom part, so does it really need that tiny spring? If that whole inner part is supposed to end up as stationary as a solid bolt, ( the mushroom end and its stem ) then isn't that tiny spring's job rendered moot?
 

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I have a question. When I was adjusting my MCC, I adjusted them finger tight and then a quarter turn as suggested and the engine sounded fantastic. However I could hear a whirring noise and I think they might be a tad bit tight because it sounded sort of like the fan would sound if it were whizzing. I know the sound is the chain on the guard because when I loosen them a little I didn't get the sound . My question is this..... when you tighten it finger tight with the engine off and then you start it they become loose again and you can finger tighten then almost another half a turn if not more. Should you do them finger tight with the engine not running or finger tight with the engine running? It seems to make a difference of almost a full turn. I do not get any chain noise when I do it finger tied with the engine off I just noticed I could turn them more while the engine was running then when they were off and I didn't know which was considered correct but my whirring noise goes away if I back the MCC off a little to where it would be if I adjusted it with the engine off.
 

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I have a question. When I was adjusting my MCC, I adjusted them finger tight and then a quarter turn as suggested and the engine sounded fantastic. However I could hear a whirring noise and I think they might be a tad bit tight because it sounded sort of like the fan would sound if it were whizzing. I know the sound is the chain on the guard because when I loosen them a little I didn't get the sound . My question is this..... when you tighten it finger tight with the engine off and then you start it they become loose again and you can finger tighten then almost another half a turn if not more. Should you do them finger tight with the engine not running or finger tight with the engine running? It seems to make a difference of almost a full turn. I do not get any chain noise when I do it finger tied with the engine off I just noticed I could turn them more while the engine was running then when they were off and I didn't know which was considered correct but my whirring noise goes away if I back the MCC off a little to where it would be if I adjusted it with the engine off.
I had that same question and decided to keep it to myself... and while thinking about also realized that a hot vs cold engine might even have something to do with that torque amount in the first place. The question is asking then... "how delicate is this function of CCT?" and then reading into it found two camps of people saying "just tighten it till it sounds good... " and "it can be too tight and screw things up... "

In effect, the question and answer are elusive. SO... then i was trying to figure out a way to gauge the torque coming back from the chain guide instead of counting threads, ( since i made my own and it was SAE anyways... what's the point? )

The ACCT is setup so that it NEVER ( hopefully ) returns to a lower tension. Just keeps pushing... is the chain guide spring loaded? Or is only the chain itself the spring?

Is there a listing in one of the manuals when rebuilding a block that says how much sideways torque the chain is supposed to have at that point of contact?
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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I have a question. When I was adjusting my MCC, I adjusted them finger tight and then a quarter turn as suggested and the engine sounded fantastic. However I could hear a whirring noise and I think they might be a tad bit tight because it sounded sort of like the fan would sound if it were whizzing. I know the sound is the chain on the guard because when I loosen them a little I didn't get the sound . My question is this..... when you tighten it finger tight with the engine off and then you start it they become loose again and you can finger tighten then almost another half a turn if not more. Should you do them finger tight with the engine not running or finger tight with the engine running? It seems to make a difference of almost a full turn. I do not get any chain noise when I do it finger tied with the engine off I just noticed I could turn them more while the engine was running then when they were off and I didn't know which was considered correct but my whirring noise goes away if I back the MCC off a little to where it would be if I adjusted it with the engine off.
TOC Manufacturing is here in Phoenix, AZ.
I witnessed him install my TOC's....he put them in finger snug, started the bike, tightened more till all was quiet....locked them down.
hope this helps.... :wink2:

From my Avatar...
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
 
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TOC Manufacturing is here in Phoenix, AZ.
I witnessed him install my TOC's....he put them in finger snug, started the bike, tightened more till all was quiet....locked them down.
hope this helps.... :wink2:

From my Avatar...
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
Doesn't that risk the chain eating the teeth? or... how long does it take to cause real damage like that?

Also, did he do that on the bike cold or warmed up and was it just at idle?
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Doesn't that risk the chain eating the teeth? or... how long does it take to cause real damage like that?

Also, did he do that on the bike cold or warmed up and was it just at idle?
I rode in (30 mile ride)....5-10 minutes later he wrenched the ACCT's out, installed/mounted TOC MCCT's, Adjusted as described AT IDLE. He spent 5-8 minutes total on my bike. I was at his house (?) 30 minutes (?) total.

easy-peasy
 

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I'm a rider
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TOC Manufacturing is here in Phoenix, AZ.
I witnessed him install my TOC's....he put them in finger snug, started the bike, tightened more till all was quiet....locked them down.
hope this helps.... :wink2:

From my Avatar...
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
Mine is quiet both ways. When I did the adjustment with the bike off it didn't make the whirring sound so I may have had it slightly too tight. Guess I have superman fingers :D
 
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