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I liked the look of the allen too but figured there are so many bolts on our bike already that uses a 10 and 12mm wrench I would keep it the same.
It doesn't take much effort to toss a allen key in the tool pouch.. plus it looks a lot better on the bike.. I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post them.. The bolt works too. But I think it looks a bit frankensteinish.
 

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'03 VN750 "Rosie"
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227 Posts
Well I did my conversion today. As usual, a job that's supposed to take 20 minutes took me considerably longer...

A little background: I had stripped the threads on the front cylinder ACCT by over tightening the cap bolt on my first attempt at the Grambo trick last fall. I put a gob of RTV on there to hold the bolt in place and keep from leaking oil, and I have to say it has held up. I know I need to tap new threads into it and have already purchased a kit doing it. At the ACE hardware store I picked up the following: M6 x 30mm allen bolt (they didn't have it in 40mm size) 1/4 inch flat washers, neoprene washers, hex nuts and nylon lock nut. They didn't have the exact size neoprene washers wib recommended so I got something close. For the front I picked up a M7 x 30mm hex head bolt (they didn't have allen bolts in M7) I later had to go to Autozone and get lock washers and fender washers.

I tackled the rear first. All the ACCT parts worked just like they were described here and in the video. I inserted the allen bolt with the 2 neoprene washers up against the ACCT housing, followed by the 1/4 inch metal washer and the nylon lock nut. With the 30mm bolt there wasn't room for a regular nut too, and I honestly can't figure out what purpose it would serve. I ran the motor and adjusted till the knocking was gone.

I took off the front, disassembled it, and put the housing in a vise on my work bench. I have never tapped threads before. I figured out I would have to drill the hole a little bigger, the realized that while I am drilling for an M7 bolt, all my drill bits are measured in inches. I tried to eyeball it, holding drill bits up in front of the threading tool. I started smaller and worked my way up in drill bit size and finally was able to cut threads into a 15/84 hole. I washed the shavings out with brake cleaner, put the M7 bolt in there and it was actually a little jiggly in there, and so I'm a little nervous about how well it's going to hold up. Down the road I may pick up an 8mm drill bit and cut some M8 threads on that one.

Took it out for a ride and immediately noticed how much quieter the motor is. I hadn't even realized it could be this quiet! The ride was uneventful. I got back and decided to change my oil. After that was done I checked and the rear one (the one that points down) was leaking from the stem bolt. I put a metal washer next to the ACCT housing so it's up against the o-ring and added a lock washer next to the locknut. Still leaking! After dinner I put RTV on the threads in front of the locknut and where it goes into the ACCT housing. Hopefully it will do the trick!
 

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'03 VN750 "Rosie"
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227 Posts
:doh::doh::doh: STILL LEAKING!!!
 

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Concert connoisseur
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Discussion Starter #25
:doh::doh::doh: STILL LEAKING!!!
the smaller neoprene metal backed washers I used are very very tight on the bolt, you almost have to thread them on, hope that helps!
 

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'03 VN750 "Rosie"
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227 Posts
Thanks. I'll give that a shot this weekend. Too windy the rest of the week to ride here.
 

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WIB: Another successful conversion thanks to your post here. Been on it for a couple of weeks now and I am very pleased by the results. Had to re-adjust once just to tweek it a bit more but all in all a very easy, cheap and very usefull conversion.

Thanks again.
 

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Giggity!
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4,307 Posts
:doh::doh::doh: STILL LEAKING!!!
If your still leaking from the rear simply remove it. Clean off the oil & use a good sealant like the black RTV & apply it around the nut & threads to seal it. No one will see it behind the resivoir anyway.

Hey, it's an option. I've been running with my rear one sealed that way for the past 30,000 miles.
 

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Here's what I did and it works great. I put a set screw in to hold the ACCT in place after adjusting.
 

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Hmm, I went to ACE today and they had all the parts for this except the metal/neoprene washers. The guy pulled them up on the internet but said they don't stock them... I'm guessing your local hardware store had all the parts right? I'll have to try another one. Great write up by the way, I can't wait to do this on my front cylinder to quiet her down a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
try lowes, home depot, I got all mine at menards!
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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Excellent info. Thanks so much. I've got one of these lil' farts that likes to tick and then not...then tick for a few...then not. Makes me nuts. But soon not anymore. :)
 

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I did this the other day, and got it nice and quiet and it ran good that night. Today, I rode it to work and the battery died when I got gas. Knew the battery was going bad so got a new one.

On the way home, it dies at every stop sign. It starts up but won't idle. I got it home barely and it seems to have a knock kinda like the acct going bad sound but Loud. May not be related to the mcct conversion but I'm thinking maybe I should put the acct back in?? This bike has been nothing but a pain in my ass. I ride it a week then it's down a week, rinse and repeat until it just blows up lol.
Any help? Oh, it stinks really bad now too.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I did this the other day, and got it nice and quiet and it ran good that night. Today, I rode it to work and the battery died when I got gas. Knew the battery was going bad so got a new one.

On the way home, it dies at every stop sign. It starts up but won't idle. I got it home barely and it seems to have a knock kinda like the acct going bad sound but Loud. May not be related to the mcct conversion but I'm thinking maybe I should put the acct back in?? This bike has been nothing but a pain in my ass. I ride it a week then it's down a week, rinse and repeat until it just blows up lol.
Any help? Oh, it stinks really bad now too.
Maybe got the MCCT too tight??? Too much pressure on the CCT guide can slow the engine down.

Use a long screwdriver to create a makeshift stethoscope.
Listen to different areas of the engine until you identify the source of the knocking noise. :)

Describe the stinking smell please.
ie. gasoline?, oil?, hot or burning?, sulfur (rotten egg smell from gear oil)?, or what else??
Where is the strongest smell coming from? exhaust?, engine area? or??
 

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Discussion Starter #37
think you would have to tighten it pretty good to kill the engine, but if you just screw it in with your fingers till its snug, start the bike you shouldnt have to tighten it a 1/4 turn or so at most, the acct spring you are replacing is not a very stiff spring at all so it shouldnt take much pressure to quiet it down. as for the smell?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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think you would have to tighten it pretty good to kill the engine, but if you just screw it in with your fingers till its snug, start the bike you shouldnt have to tighten it a 1/4 turn or so at most, the acct spring you are replacing is not a very stiff spring at all so it shouldnt take much pressure to quiet it down. as for the smell?
I agree wib, but he didn`t really give any info about how he adjusted it.
Finger tight or used a wrench?? I don`t know.:confused:
I tried not to take for granted that he followed your previous directions for only finger tightening when diagnosing his problem.

Case in point. Old timers know the ACCT has to be fully retracted before installing it. We had a newer member last week who didn`t know, and who then installed an ACCT w/o fully retracting the adjustment rod and slowed his idle speed from 2k down to 1k rpm.
That fact came back to me when I suggested a too tight MCCT here. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I'm in the process of doing this but every where I go the 6x1x40mm only has threads on half the bolt. Is that normal? Am I looking at the wrong thing?
someone should carry a fully threaded one, mine was chrome if that helps or a few members have used an allen wrench head that was full threaded!
 
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