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Mine is quiet both ways. When I did the adjustment with the bike off it didn't make the whirring sound so I may have had it slightly too tight. Guess I have superman fingers :D
Upon installing one, let's say... from all the way in... several turns before it's even close to anyone's finger tight, how long making the noise at totally loose then would you guess it would take to eat the teeth off one of the gears?

... mine might be tight as well.. and that might be that grainy noise we heard. I read this you wrote today, and today when riding... i heard the same thing... the 'whistle' sound... whir... sounded like a brand new Z1 900 with its huge fan. I am only playing with one front cylinder though too.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Upon installing one, let's say... from all the way in... several turns before it's even close to anyone's finger tight, how long making the noise at totally loose then would you guess it would take to eat the teeth off one of the gears?

... mine might be tight as well.. and that might be that grainy noise we heard. I read this you wrote today, and today when riding... i heard the same thing... the 'whistle' sound... whir... sounded like a brand new Z1 900 with its huge fan. I am only playing with one front cylinder though too.
...In time, the whir/whistle will quiet down .....once the chain stretch's a little more...
-:doh: - :doh:-
 

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...In time, the whir/whistle will quiet down .....once the chain stretch's a little more...
-:doh: - :doh:-
Fortunately for me, i'm going to re-design the MCCT tomorrow. So... i *might* get the opportunity to hear the rattle for the first time. My first install... no rattle at finger tight... same as One1... but rather than pull it back to hear one, i pushed in to test my ears.

It must be a really delicate adjustment for such an awful way to install it. I am presuming MCCTs existed before ACCTs. How would a service manual suggest installing an MCCT? Torque seems like the only way possible to gauge it.
 

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Ancient MCCTs were spring loaded, you would loosen the locknut and bolt to let the plunger push out under the spring tension, then tighten the bolt. It wasn't a real stout spring, you could compress it with your thumb.
 

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I agree wolfie, there is no 'official' version. I do disagree though that they are variations of the same thing. Maybe the same purpose, but not the same thing. There are three distinctly different methods of conversion, and one that is machined for the purpose.

Here is the list, and in order of dependability, IMHO.

1. The TOC MCCT's.
Strongest solution, maybe even overkill.

2. The ACCT internal jb welded nut with external jam.
The internal nut mod has the most in common with the TOC design. No longer dependent on threads cut in the weak aluminum pot metal of the ACCT casing, you can torque the jam nut against the end of the casing with confidence. To me, this is the only reliable conversion design.

3. The ACCT spring removal, bolt through end with jam nut.
This was kinda' the solution that started the conversion discussion. Works pretty good evidently, but relies on the weak aluminum pot metal casing for the jam nut. delicate stuff. This design appeared too wobbly and therefore unreliable for me.

4. The ACCT with side set screw.
This one is very scarry. Many things can work for a time; my thoughts on this one is that I could never stop thinking about it, and I would fear high revs. For the remaining life of the bike.

Of course, this is all my opinion based on experience with other types of machinery. I have not tested any of these designs. I am confident though, that these designs are not equally viable with regard to dependability.

Last night i did mine :)
I used option 3 maby in time update it with version 2. I only did the frontcilinder.
I bought the bike last week for 375,- euro. 1986 vn750 "
It did not run and was in this condition for the past 10 years:
What have i done:
  1. Cleand petroltank
  2. Change sparkplus and caps
  3. New airfilters
  4. Cleand electric connections
  5. Replace a vacuumhose
  6. Car engine oil wth some ATF automatic gear oil and run it for 200 miles ( the oil was black when it came out)
  7. Changed the oil it with full syntetic bike oil
  8. tightend the steering nut
  9. Replaced bulbs
  10. New rear indicators
  11. 2e hand front fender and painted it gloss blak
  12. And lastnight the acct to mcct mod.

WHat is left to:
Fix dend in petroltank
Paint it
re paint rearfender and sitecaps.
Drive it :) and maby some new tires ...
and when the cops stop mee maby some new silencers ......
 

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I been looking at the TOC Manufacturing website and thinking I should maybe order a set of these rather than do the conversion. Anyone using the TOCs? How do you like them and is there a specific one I should order, seeing as I don't see the vn750 listed on their site.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I been looking at the TOC Manufacturing website and thinking I should maybe order a set of these rather than do the conversion. Anyone using the TOCs? How do you like them and is there a specific one I should order, seeing as I don't see the vn750 listed on their site.
KC has TOC 's on his and hasn't had an issue. now me,I have a set of DOC adjusters,and they leak like Betty White's bladder(**** I need to lay off the black velvet toasted caramel, make some dinner, and get some happy nappy time)

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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I changed over from acct to mcct and still don't have it right. It is still as loud as it was before. I'm probably not tightening it up enough. Worried about breaking something. Is it possible to over tighten the mcct and cause damage? Should it feel snug or a little tight?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Well, I tightened the mcct until the rpm's began to drop and backed off just a little. Started dying when I stopped at intersections. Backed it off and now just snug to the chain. Haven't had a chance to ride it yet but guessing it will run fine. I'm not worrying about it anymore. It's snug enough that there shouldn't be any problem with the chain and sprockets. I saw above where someone talked about their bike making a whistling sound. Mine does that too.
 

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seems about right. I take mine in until the engine starts to run slower, then out until the chain starts clattering, then in about 1/4-1/3rd of that difference and adjust if any problems arise

my engine is still noisy but much less so from the areas, I used to get a knocking on cold starts because of the accts
 

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Hello ! I have one question. Yesterday I find Kawasaki Vulcan 750cc made at 1994 and it has 40 000 miles on it. Price is good but afcourse there is that chain sound. What do you think ACCT to MCCT conversation will help or it needs more repairing jobs to be done? Seller said that need to change all cam chain parts. What do you think? If it has 20 000 miles I think the MCCT will do the job but now 40 000 maybe really needs to change more parts? Sorry for not perfect english language :wink2:
 

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you can try the Grambo trick to see if it makes any difference in the chain noise, or you can even try a small screwdriver to tighten the ACCT while engine is running. if it gets better, then the cam chains and gear are probably ok, and MCCT is way to go
 

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Should be fine, a bit long on the threads, might have to adjust the coolant tank. Should be able to put a shorter bolt in them. Those were about $23-26 on ebay, don't know what ali is charging.
 

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I think when I have time I'll take it apart and reassemble on video if it helps!

I now have over 20,000 miles on this setup with no failure and no other mods than what
I did in my first post, jb weld if you like but I have not needed to yet!!!!!!!!!!! 11/10/2014 3 and a half years later
I really could use some help on the work you did. My bike still has the acct it's getting pretty noisy and I really don't have 200 to spend at the moment.
 

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I went with the TOC spring for the front ACCT. TOC claims the spring is 25% stiffer (spring constant) than the original. I tried to measure and compare the tension between to old and new springs. I didn't get specific measurements, but could tell that the TOC spring was slightly stiffer.

The TOC spring lasted about 1,000 mi before the noise returned and, like your case, the noise would go away as the engine warmed up. I believe that the cam chain, sprockets and guides change dimension slightly when hot and thus changes the tension.

I rebuilt the front ACCT using the same TOC spring, but added an extra 1/2 to 3/4 turn of preload on the spring. It is still quiet after more than 2,000 mi. The TOC ACCT rebuild instructions (and various references on this site) indicate 1 turn of preload. There is no preload specification in the Service Manual as this in not a servicable part. Note that as the cam chain wears over time and the ACCT extends to maintain tension, the force applied by the spring is proportionally reduced. (F = k*D; where k is spring constant and D is spring length). The amount of spring preload is important. If I had it to do over again, I would just add preload to the original spring instead of going with the TOC springs. I found that the spring preload was difficult to get right and think that some people may have too little preload when rebuilding thier ACCTs.

While I have no problem with those that go with MCCTs, I am a bit obsessive and would continuously worry that if the cam chain was quiet that I may have overtightened. Also, I like the "automatic" feature of the ACCT. When working properly, proper cam chain tension is maintained as the engine heats up and cools off as well as when components wear. I would worry that the tension with the MCCT is never "just right", but always a little "too loose" or "too tight". Those with good mechanical skills and who are consientious about adjusting their MCCT have a reliable engine. But I personally would be a little leary about buying a used bike with MCCTs unless I knew the capability of the owner. There are posts of people cranking down on the MCCT to get it nice and quiet to the point where it affected idle speed.
After reading through this entire thread and considering which route I personally wish to take regarding my camchain noise, I find myself wishing this comment had gotten some more attention. It's an interesting argument with some interesting points. I'd be interested too to learn how to make those "preload" spring adjustments in the event that the parts I buy end up rattling again in the future. I'm leaning toward the TOCs but will always be curious that with MCCT and no spring, what's to compensate for the thermal expansion of the chain?
 
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