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Concert connoisseur
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
tired of messing with these also. so I converted my acct's similar to kanuck's and man is it quiet now, $6.23 in parts and thats only cause I used chrome on some of them. been jumping through hoops trying to get the pics off my phone and camera but neither are cooperating tonight.
here is what I bought all quantites of 1

6mm - 1.0 x 40mm metric hex cap screw Chrome


#12 x 5/8 bonded sealing washer or (neoprene)


couldnt get pics to upload of these but also bought
5/16 x 3/4 bonded sealing washer (neoprene)
6mm - 1.00 locknut coarse, chrome
6mm - 1.00 hex nut coarse, chrome

remove capscrew from acct, relieve tension on spring and remove two acorn nut on housing and remove acct. also the metal tab from the oil line can be bent out of the way, bend the bracket only and do not twist the oil line. there is still plenty of support that you will not need to reattach it.

remove circle retaining clip and disassemble acct.
here are the parts I did not use.
cap screw, spring, small flat washer and larger metal spacer.


next take the threaded bolt with screwdriver slot in end and screw all the way into plunger, insert into acct housing and replace retaining clip.

then assemble hardware onto the new 6mm - 1.0 x 40mm capscrew in this order, nylon locknut, then hexnut, #12 x 5/8 neoprene washer and finally the 5/16 x 3/4 neoprene washer.

make sure orings on each side of mcct housing is in place and thread the whole assembly into mcct housing about 3/4 of the way. put mcct onto bike, you'll want the plunger in place and the new capscrew in enough so the housing will not lay flush on the engine. slowly back off the screw just enough so the housing lays flat against engine and put on the acorn nuts on the housing, finger tighten the new manual bolt and spin hexnut down snug.
start engine apply a little more or less tension till you like the way it sounds and tighen hexnut, when you have it where you want it tighten the nylon locknut against the hexnut to secure it in place. this whole process took about 20 minutes and 6 dollars for 1 mcct.
finished product





did not leak one bit and I'll let you know as I get some miles on her how shes holding up but right now she is purring like a kitten!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I think when I have time I'll take it apart and reassemble on video if it helps!

I now have over 20,000 miles on this setup with no failure and no other mods than what
I did in my first post, jb weld if you like but I have not needed to yet!!!!!!!!!!! 11/10/2014 3 and a half years later
 

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'03 VN750 "Rosie"
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227 Posts
Thank you! This is great! I'll be doing this on my bike this summer, only I think I'll use allen bolts instead.
 

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Patriot Guard Rider
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Good job.

I may just keep my ACCT's and convert them for the hell of it since I already installed a set of TOC MCCT's.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you! This is great! I'll be doing this on my bike this summer, only I think I'll use allen bolts instead.
6 bucks and 20 minutes, why wait til summer? I cant believe i rattled around and fought with springs this long. bought toc hd springs and one broke, went back to my old springs with more tension on them and that didnt last. this was simple and two 10 mm box wrench if I ever had to adjust them on the road I can do it without even shutting off the bike or let it cool down! I'm stoked!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Dang wib, that is so simple that I can finally visualize exactly how everything fits together. The threaded piece is screwed all the way into the mushroom headed plunger and held in the mcct body by the circular retaining clip.

Then it is pushed down/adjusted directly by the 40 mm long capscrew, sealed with the rubber faced washers and locked with double nuts.

Your parts list and and concise straight forward instructions now make this mod understandable and doable by ANYBODY, IMHO!:smiley_th

EDIT 17 MARCH 2013**** UPDATE*** OK, this thread has about 11 pages now with several variations to this conversion. There has been much concern about the 6 mm thread strength in the soft metal at the end of the ACCT body. In post #70 Wolfie describes his solution to the stripped out threads by using JB Weld to epoxy a 6 mm nut to the inside of the ACCT body. Also take a look at his post #67 with a diagram of his variation of components for this conversion.

Link to page 7 of this thread: http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917&page=7

IMHO epoxying the 6 mm nut to the inside of the ACCT body makes this conversion almost as 100% strong and reliable as the TOC MCCT.
:smiley_th

Don't forget to come back and read the rest of this thread between here and page 7 for some good ideas.
 

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Worked great for me too! Just did mine today only I used black allen heads 30mm long.. Bike sound like new now when it runs..
 

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Banned
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Nice write-up :smiley_th; You've got my Sticky vote
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dang wib, that is so simple that I can finally visualize exactly how everything fits together. The threaded piece is screwed all the way into the mushroom headed plunger and held in the mcct body by the circular retaining clip.

Then it is pushed down/adjusted directly by the 40 mm long capscrew, sealed with the rubber faced washers and locked with double nuts.

Your parts list and and concise straight forward instructions now make this mod understandable and doable by ANYBODY, IMHO!:smiley_th
exactly, (threaded piece and plunger) this one I got together and tried so I didnt get pics of everything and am afraid to take it off again although simple, I can't afford to break a cirleclip or something simple right now as my truck is not running. when I do my rear one this weekend I will get more step by step pics or video!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dang wib, that is so simple that I can finally visualize exactly how everything fits together. The threaded piece is screwed all the way into the mushroom headed plunger and held in the mcct body by the circular retaining clip.

Then it is pushed down/adjusted directly by the 40 mm long capscrew, sealed with the rubber faced washers and locked with double nuts.

Your parts list and and concise straight forward instructions now make this mod understandable and doable by ANYBODY, IMHO!:smiley_th
Worked great for me too! Just did mine today only I used black allen heads 30mm long.. Bike sound like new now when it runs..
I liked the look of the allen too but figured there are so many bolts on our bike already that uses a 10 and 12mm wrench I would keep it the same.
 

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One question. You say to relieve the tension on the spring. How is this done? When I did the grambo I could only turn the screw clockwise and it sprung back like it should. I could not turn the screw counterclockwise.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One question. You say to relieve the tension on the spring. How is this done? When I did the grambo I could only turn the screw clockwise and it sprung back like it should. I could not turn the screw counterclockwise.
Thanks
turn it clockwise to relieve the tension. I have a key from when I bought my toc springs that locks it in place when you relieve it but it is not needed. just you a tiny screwdriver, twist it and hold it there till you remove the acorn nuts, pull the acct off and let it spin back all the way.
 

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turn it clockwise to relieve the tension. I have a key from when I bought my toc springs that locks it in place when you relieve it but it is not needed. just you a tiny screwdriver, twist it and hold it there till you remove the acorn nuts, pull the acct off and let it spin back all the way.
Thanks Wib. Great write up.
 

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On my acct's I did the grambo trick on, I can turn the adj. screw c/w all the way out, and the screw will stay in the end of holder w/o holding it with a screwdriver. I don't know if that's normal or not, but it does make it a lot easier to install the tensioners back onto the cylinders. Thjen I can turn it with the screwdriver, and it will spin down like it's supposed to.
I have my engine out working on the carbs and water lines, and I pulled the valve covers off and checked the cam chains, and the rear chain was slightly loose. I took a screwdriver and turned the screw ccw to tighten it up. I checked the tension with my finget to make sure it wasn't too tight. I will know more when I get it fired up this week as to whether it will work or not.
If not I will be converting them to mcct's like you did. Will post pics of mine, as I plan on going a little different route.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm gonna do my rear this weekend, I'm gonna try to video it step by step through the whole process and will post the outcome within this thread!
 

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I'm gonna do my rear this weekend, I'm gonna try to video it step by step through the whole process and will post the outcome within this thread!
GREAT. looking forward to it. :beerchug:
Thanks
 

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Is that the little ticking sound I am hearing sometimes on my bike or is that a normal sound? Not a knock, more like a lifter tick in a car engine sound.

Thanks !
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is that the little ticking sound I am hearing sometimes on my bike or is that a normal sound? Not a knock, more like a lifter tick in a car engine sound.

Thanks !
more than likely, I think the front cylinder is more prone to it than the rear. my front was knocking a bit the rear is still only ticking.

with the engine running if you remove the capscrew on the acct you might notice with every knock you hear the flathead slot inside will jump. careful not to overtighten the capscrew though it strips very easily, you only need to snug it up!
 

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Yeah, I do believe it is the front on mine as well. It's not a real bad tick but just enough to aggravate ya, didn't really notice it until a couple days ago. I wouldn't have thought anything was bad at under 6,000 miles. And it's not adjustable correct? Doesn't do it all the time so its prolly in need of this mod soon. I appreciate all the help ! :smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah, I do believe it is the front on mine as well. It's not a real bad tick but just enough to aggravate ya, didn't really notice it until a couple days ago. I wouldn't have thought anything was bad at under 6,000 miles. And it's not adjustable correct? Doesn't do it all the time so its prolly in need of this mod soon. I appreciate all the help ! :smiley_th
you can buy heavyduty springs at www.tocmanufacturing but mine only lasted a few weeks when it broke and I had to drive home 40 miles keeping the rpms at a 2500, others have had better luck but they still only last so long, and no they are not adjustable although I took my old springs and preloaded with an xtra turn and got a little more time on them. toc makes a mcct for $50.00 but making your own cost less than $7.00 and no shipping.
 
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