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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so last year one of my friends at my previous job said his stator went bad on his 86 VN750. He didn't get a chance to bring it over last year so finally he was able to drop it off today. Went over sticky on testing and is sure looks bad to me.
Checking the voltage at the battery at idle I had 11.8 and when rev'd up to 4,000 I was getting around 12.1, so on to the stator test.

With meter set to 200 Ohms I'm getting between 7.6 & 7.7 across all 3 wires to the engine case.
With the engine running & meter set at VAC 200 I'm getting mid to low 20's between each lead and it should be 40 to 70 VAC.

So looks like I'm going with the engine pull route, since I've done it before and then get TPE to do it for him. Hoping I'll get him on the road again before the 1st week of June.

So what's the easiest way to pull the R/R? I was thinking of pulling the battery box, but if I pull the engine I have to remove the exhaust anyway so that might be easier.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
OK, so last year one of my friends at my previous job said his stator went bad on his 86 VN750. He didn't get a chance to bring it over last year so finally he was able to drop it off today. Went over sticky on testing and is sure looks bad to me.
Checking the voltage at the battery at idle I had 11.8 and when rev'd up to 4,000 I was getting around 12.1, so on to the stator test.

With meter set to 200 Ohms I'm getting between 7.6 & 7.7 across all 3 wires to the engine case.
With the engine running & meter set at VAC 200 I'm getting mid to low 20's between each lead and it should be 40 to 70 VAC.

So looks like I'm going with the engine pull route, since I've done it before and then get TPE to do it for him. Hoping I'll get him on the road again before the 1st week of June.

So what's the easiest way to pull the R/R? I was thinking of pulling the battery box, but if I pull the engine I have to remove the exhaust anyway so that might be easier.
What I did was unbolted the battery box and unbolted and moved the JB. I was able to tilt the bottom of the box towards me where I could get a 10mm wrench in there. I tried to get at it from underneath, but the swing arm was too close to get a wrench to the bolt.
 

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bamafrankie
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83 Posts
I JUST REPLACED MY R/R AND I RELOCATED MINE IN THE PROCESS. I JUST UNPLUGGED MINE AND INSTALLED NEW R/R IN NEW LOCATION AND DRILLED OUT THE BOLTS TO THE OLD ONE
I JUST HAD CHARGING TROUBLES AND I HAD MID/LOW 20vac AL LOW RPM BECAUSE I COULDN'T GET IT TO REV HIGHER REPLACED BATTERY NOW ITS DOING FINE I'M GETTING 13plus VOLTS AT IDLE AND OVER 14 AT 3K. JUST FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Premium Member
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5,236 Posts
When I had to replace mine I just relocated it and didn't even bother to take the old one out. Even if you put it back where it came from drilling the bolts out seems easy enough and you can put new uncorroded bolts back in easier,
 

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I drilled mine out from top and moved it over by the left side passenger foot peg. Not too bad, didn't take too long.

I used part of a 2" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock piece that I had left over from making coasters. Also used a conduit bracket from electrical dept at HD, I think was about a 1" or 3/4" piece. Some clear rubber tubing I had slipped over the bracket portion and secured to the frame. Very sturdy.
 

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Senior Member
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2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So does the plug come right out of the R/R? I was trying to pull the plug off last night and it seems to hang up. Is there a clip holding it? I plan on putting a new one on and just might leave the old one there.
 

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Captive New Yorker....
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264 Posts
You've got to squeeze the tab to get the plug out. My bike is a 94 and I think I had the original R/R in there, so the plug was really stuck in there. Took a while to get it out.
 

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parts

are you going to buy this?

ttp://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KAWASAKI-VN750-VULCAN-750-1986-2006-MOTORCYCLE-/280988744272?item=280988744272&vxp=mtr

saw that in the parts page here. I need it . Should I prefer Electrosport instead of this ? This is a good price. R/R alone at any Kawa distributor $170. Anyone know about Caltric quality?
 

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1,803 Posts

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..have a vulcan good day!
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4,508 Posts
I recommend TPE Stators...mine appeared factory new with new 14 gauge wire and rubber seal...(orig. wire is 16 gauge). $82.00 shipped from Alabama.
WilliamTech
 

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sounds good. but what is the stock wire guage coming out the stator?

This post stays 14 ga is stock
ttp://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24434&highlight=mosfet+rr
 

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67 Posts
Ok that Buell stator is just for harleys. Neway Tim Parrott looks solid what is your paypal email william tech you will get $5 for referring me i guess.

With the Shindengen Mosfett RR. The 3 ft of wire it comes with is plenty right?

Does the Tim Parrott stator also come with sufficient wire length?

Previous owner cut and reconnected the 3 yellow stator wires right near the exhaust port (left foot side). They were all melted together...now things are screwy.
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
where you describe the wires spliced together is the factory location. the bullet connectors are notorious for corrosion and melting together. the 3 feet of wire supplied with the mosfet kit is more than enough wires. Tim's stators also have more than enough wires to reach the R/R in the factory location, I would move the Mosfet R/R while installing it.
 

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O ok yea youre right . well those bullet connectors were done for. Im getting no more than 80 AC mV .. not the acceptable 50-70 V.... out of the stator with the bike running when i test those three yellow wires ( cut behind the corroded/melted connection ).

However stator to case checks out and resistance between poles checks out.
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,697 Posts
General, May I suggest you make your own thread so we don't contaminate Shark's thread with finding your problems? each problem is unique in itself. And I hate it when threads get hijacked like this.
 

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Well i wasnt even getting 1V .. mV so thats screwy

and im not getting 13.6 V at the battery at 3k rpms with the RR connected.
 
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