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My mosfet regulator came in today and went to work right away at hooking it up on my 99' Vulcan 750. Followed the instructions by hooking up the 3 stator wires to the one plug and then running the power and ground straight to the battery. The battery is now getting 13.9 volts instead of 11.35 volts from before.

The headlight and all the lights are working. But now the bike runs terrible. The throttle response is worse and it pops/backfires at 2500-3000 rpm. The bike was running just fine, minus the battery not being charged, prior to the mosfet swap.

The only thing it can be is the three wires not being hooked up. The three wires left are a brown, white, and black/yellow stripe wires. Any idea which wire may be causing it? Thanks.
 

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My mosfet regulator came in today and went to work right away at hooking it up on my 99' Vulcan 750. Followed the instructions by hooking up the 3 stator wires to the one plug and then running the power and ground straight to the battery. The battery is now getting 13.9 volts instead of 11.35 volts from before.

The headlight and all the lights are working. But now the bike runs terrible. The throttle response is worse and it pops/backfires at 2500-3000 rpm. The bike was running just fine, minus the battery not being charged, prior to the mosfet swap.

The only thing it can be is the three wires not being hooked up. The three wires left are a brown, white, and black/yellow stripe wires. Any idea which wire may be causing it? Thanks.
Don't know if this helps you
http://roadstercycle.com/index.html Link didn't work right. When you get to the page,scroll down to Mosfet Complete Kits $124.00, then click on Easiest Mosfet Hookup Suggestion.
 

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Does it run fine on the battery, i.e. if you disconnect the power wire from the mosfet regulator to battery positive terminal?
 

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For the most part the R/R and stator should not have anything to do with how the bike runs. With the symptoms your having. Example; if your battery was fully charged you could unplug the R/R and the bike should run just fine, untill the battery voltage was low enough where it could not run the ignition.

As far as the 3 non stator wires I agree with the previous post. They need to be insulated seperately. I put some heat shrink on the end of mine folded it over and taped them up with the harness.

White wire: Positive wire that goes to the ignition switch and the battery. As long as nothing else with this wire was messed with you would be fine. you have the new positive wire from the mosfet going to the battery. The original white wire still goes through the ignition switch for the operation of the bike.

BLK/Y wire: Ground that goes to the battery. You installed the new one with the mosfet so your good.

Brown wire: This wire was needed for the operation of the original R/R. When the ignition switch was turned to the on position it basicly connected it to the positive terminal of the battery, So whatever the R/R was outputting would be fed back to the R/R. Was used to control it i guess. The mosfet does not need this type of input.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
The only thing I did other than the wiring was I mixed a bucket of water and baking soda. I poured the mixture all over the area under the seat due to multiple acid spills from previous owners and myself. Hence why I have an AGM battery now. So I think I need to go and clean all the connections with electrical cleaner.
 
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