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Discussion Starter #1
Put the MOSFET R/R kit on today, it's not charging at all.

Am I correct in thinking the plug from the old R/R gets disconnected from the old R/R and sealed?

Any suggestions on what to check?

I crimped and soldered all the connections. Ran 12ga primary wire off the stator, instead of the factory 14ga. Used the 10ga wire from the kit for the battery connections and the yellow wire for the headlight relay is connected to a stator wire. Relocated the new R/R to behind the left side cover.

The only part that works, the headlight comes on after the engine fires up. Other than a defective R/R, I don't know what could have gone wrong. :confused:

I might have problems if the R/R is defective, I bought it back in Nov.

The stator checks out good, I've checked it so many times I have the procedure memorized. I tested it repeatedly before ordering the MOSFET kit.

The battery is AGM and only three months old.

Wrote this post earlier, but must have been so rattled I didn't submit it. If this ends up being a duplicate, mods feel free to delete one.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok, I found the test specs for the MOSFET R/R and it's failing the G-A1,2,3 test.

Guess I'll contact Roadstercycle and see if they'll help me out.
 

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Daymn son....I was gonna say, you did all right and then some....glad ya went up on the wire gauge....:smiley_th ....nice !...some folks actually listen to me, lol...

Ya...definitely a bad unit....shove it back up their poopchutes....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm sweating it. He's not on Ebay now and Kelly never got back to the post about going to the Roadstercycle shop in person to get a defective R/R squared away. Hoping they're both just busy.

My receipt says I paid on Dec. 5th, but in the Ebay listing under warranty, it just says "yes". Can't find a word about a warranty on the Roadstercycle website. I'm just concerned about the amount of time that's passed from purchase to today.

Yes, Kaw definitely went light on the wire gauges. 14ga at the stator and 16ga elsewhere, some are even smaller, need to look again and see what that tiny thread of wire went to. I might have gone even larger but I guess I used it all up. My bike had the melted insulation at the bullet connectors on the R/R side of the connection. The rest of the wires in the harness beside the battery don't look very stout at all and a lot of the crimp connectors are sloppy looking. That post about the wire gauge was replaying in my mind the whole time.

We had 65° or better today, I was dyin' to take that test ride! Time to get this show on the road!
 

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He's not on Ebay now and Kelly never got back to the post about going to the Roadstercycle shop in person to get a defective R/R squared away. Hoping they're both just busy.
Lotta that goin on lately....frickin sad...all I can suggest then is to replace with a Shindagen (whatever)...its what I have and its been fine...I dont have a belly though...I think if you get the Shin, and mount it away from heat, you'll be fine...will get ya on the road quick anyway, for half the cost...
 

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Ok, I found the test specs for the MOSFET R/R and it's failing the G-A1,2,3 test.

Guess I'll contact Roadstercycle and see if they'll help me out.
Did you use this test ( from Mosfet ) and did you have your meter set on diode check ? If it still fails I would be almost certain that Roadstercycle will take care of you.


Here is the Mosfet FH020AA diagnostic check from Roadstercycles: I quote: Multimeter on diode check.
Positive multimeter lead to positive mosfet pin, negative multimeter to each stator pin 1 at a time, should get all zeros.
Negative multimeter lead to positive mosfet pin, positive multimeter to each stator pins 1 at a time should get all close to the same, about 100, I've seen 70 to 140 depending on ambient weather (still all good).
Now, Positive multimeter lead to negative mosfet pin, negative lead to each stator lead 1 at a time should get 435 ish all close to the same (again varies by ambient temp).
Negative multimeter to negative mosfet pin, positive multimeter to each stator pin 1 at a time, should get zeros.
If you get a zero where you should not or a number where you should not, then you possibly have a bad mosfet, odds are not good of that." End quote
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JM2001
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Shindengen FH020AA is what I'm working with. I mounted it behind the left side cover. Thinking I'll leave the old R/R in place as a sort of heat shield for the battery and all. Bolts are probably seized up anyway.

If I get to it, I could draw out the template I used to make the mount plate and post it somewhere, maybe in Tanner's thread about the side cover mounting if that's acceptable.

Had an old aluminum/teflon skillet headed to the scrap so I cut the plate out of that. ;)

Mounting there makes getting to the fuses a little more tricky, but I'll keep a 10mm in the toolkit anyway. Two bolts and it's off.
 

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The Shindengen FH020AA is what I'm working with. I mounted it behind the left side cover. Thinking I'll leave the old R/R in place as a sort of heat shield for the battery and all. Bolts are probably seized up anyway.

If I get to it, I could draw out the template I used to make the mount plate and post it somewhere, maybe in Tanner's thread about the side cover mounting if that's acceptable.

Had an old aluminum/teflon skillet headed to the scrap so I cut the plate out of that. ;)

Mounting there makes getting to the fuses a little more tricky, but I'll keep a 10mm in the toolkit anyway. Two bolts and it's off.
We are talking about the same rectifier. The best hookup is the 3 yellow stator wires go to the bottom 3 plugs of the rectifier. The top 2 plugs are wired directly to the battery + and -. You should not wire it thru the junction box if you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Holy Kaw!

Holy Kaw!

Heard back from Jack at Roadstercycle already! :p

No problem, send it back and I'll check it out and send you a new one. Looking forward to seeing what's up. This will be the second one failed in 2000.
Assuming he means 2013, but it doesn't matter, the service and speedy response is fantastic. Took 19 minutes on a Sunday at 10pm to get an answer! :beerchug: Dude has my vote, lol.
 

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Holy Kaw!

Heard back from Jack at Roadstercycle already! :p



Assuming he means 2013, but it doesn't matter, the service and speedy response is fantastic. Took 19 minutes on a Sunday at 10pm to get an answer! :beerchug: Dude has my vote, lol.
Jack is a good guy to do business with.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We are talking about the same rectifier. The best hookup is the 3 yellow stator wires go to the bottom 3 plugs of the rectifier. The top 2 plugs are wired directly to the battery + and -. You should not wire it thru the junction box if you did.
That's how it's wired JM, bypassing the junction box.

The tests on the R/R are done with the plugs disconnected, correct? Just want to make sure I'm not sending a good Shindi back to Cali.
 

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That's how it's wired JM, bypassing the junction box.

The tests on the R/R are done with the plugs disconnected, correct? Just want to make sure I'm not sending a good Shindi back to Cali.
Correct :smiley_th
 

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Wow....I love it when a plan comes together.... ;)
...and I remember making a sticky in electric for this specific unit...gonna see if its still there....found it... http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23356

Thanks again JM....I gotta buy ya a lunch or a few beers one day...mebbe at Americade ? Ya done bailed me out a few times now. Hope you can come down to KrissyStock by Masonville NY if it happens....bout the same distance for us...
 

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Wow....I love it when a plan comes together.... ;)
...and I remember making a sticky in electric for this specific unit...gonna see if its still there....

Thanks again JM....I gotta buy ya a lunch or a few beers one day...mebbe at Americade ? Ya done bailed me out a few times now.
Wolfie,
It would be a pleasure meeting you. Maybe at Americade.
 

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I'll be at Americade for the end with some of the Pack, then gonna run over from there to Laconia (I wanna do Laconia more than Americade...last been to Laconia 28 yrs ago)...if yer there, we're good brother !...:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Did you use this test ( from Mosfet ) and did you have your meter set on diode check ? If it still fails I would be almost certain that Roadstercycle will take care of you.


Here is the Mosfet FH020AA diagnostic check from Roadstercycles: I quote: Multimeter on diode check.
Positive multimeter lead to positive mosfet pin, .....
....
If you get a zero where you should not or a number where you should not, then you possibly have a bad mosfet, odds are not good of that." End quote
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JM2001
I was posting at the same time you were and missed this quoted reply from you. Post #7 was replying to Wolfie.

I used that info you posted, found it in the other thread. The one part I'm not sure of is the "diode check" setting. Do you mean an ohms setting or the actual diode test? I wasn't aware that I would get ohm readings with the diode setting because with my meter, that setting is also the audible continuity indicator. I did the tests using the ohms setting.

So I just went out and re-tested on the diode check setting and the R/R has perfect numbers on all tests. Now what?? :confused:

Results:

B to A1,2,3 - 0

A1,2,3 to B - 137 - 136 - 138

G to A1,2,3 - 488 - 489 - 487

A1,2,3 to G - 0
 

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Buy a pre AMF Harley....

....sorry....its late, half asleep, tired....pay no mind to that man behind the curtain....but the root message, is "simple is best"....word....

....night all...3am...holy sheit !....lol
 

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I was posting at the same time you were and missed this quoted reply from you. Post #7 was replying to Wolfie.

I used that info you posted, found it in the other thread. The one part I'm not sure of is the "diode check" setting. Do you mean an ohms setting or the actual diode test? I wasn't aware that I would get ohm readings with the diode setting because with my meter, that setting is also the audible continuity indicator. I did the tests using the ohms setting.

So I just went out and re-tested on the diode check setting and the R/R has perfect numbers on all tests. Now what?? :confused:

Results:

B to A1,2,3 - 0

A1,2,3 to B - 137 - 136 - 138

G to A1,2,3 - 488 - 489 - 487

A1,2,3 to G - 0
Your test numbers are very good. No problem with the rectifier. First I would check all your wire connections. Second I would pull the headlight fuse and take a reading. I bet you get over 14 volts.Third, If you do I would suggest doing the headlight relay bypass. You should then get about 13 volts at idle. Fourth, I also relocated my rectifier, above the left passenger foot peg on an aluminum plate. The rectifier is thru bolted and I ran a ground wire from the nut on the backside of the plate to the battery ground on the frame. I gained .3 of a volt. Bottom line is that the headlight relay is probably the main problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Continuity is good on the positive and negative battery cables. Haven't tested the stator wiring yet this morning. Unless I open up the connections, I'll have to go to the stator to test those wires, if they can be accessed there without pulling the engine. The ground on the mount checks good.

I did the headlight relay bypass and it's only charging very weak at 3200 rpm, no charge at idle. The battery is down a little, but it's 11.97v at idle and at 3200rpm it goes to 12.05v climbing slowly 1/100 at a time, it was 12.15v @ 3200rpm when I shut it off. I just went straight to the bypass and didn't check voltage at the headlight fuse first.

Having to work outside for now and rain is coming, have the battery charger on it.

Don't know what else to try right now.
 

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Continuity is good on the positive and negative battery cables. Haven't tested the stator wiring yet this morning. Unless I open up the connections, I'll have to go to the stator to test those wires, if they can be accessed there without pulling the engine. The ground on the mount checks good.

I did the headlight relay bypass and it's only charging very weak at 3200 rpm, no charge at idle. The battery is down a little, but it's 11.97v at idle and at 3200rpm it goes to 12.05v climbing slowly 1/100 at a time, it was 12.15v @ 3200rpm when I shut it off. I just went straight to the bypass and didn't check voltage at the headlight fuse first.

Having to work outside for now and rain is coming, have the battery charger on it.

Don't know what else to try right now.
Back to basics. Are you sure you have a good battery. The voltage you are showing is only 25-50% of battery power ( depending on type of battery.) I would take it to Auto Zone or Advance Auto and have them Performance Load test it ( not capacity load ). How about your ground connections?
 
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