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Discussion Starter #1
Fellow Vulcanites --

Mr. Spock limped on one fork into the shed today. The right seal leaking Vulcan blood all over everything.

From scanning this forum I see that I'm in good company including Lance, Doug, NiteRider, etc. I will read these most recent posts, the verses, and the clymers manual and post any questions in this thread.

In the meantime if anyone has any advice on special things to watch for I welcome your input.

If it wasn't for this forum I think I may have already sold this bike!

Thanx AGAIN! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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Fellow Vulcanites --

Mr. Spock limped on one fork into the shed today. The right seal leaking Vulcan blood all over everything.

From scanning this forum I see that I'm in good company including Lance, Doug, NiteRider, etc. I will read these most recent posts, the verses, and the clymers manual and post any questions in this thread.

In the meantime if anyone has any advice on special things to watch for I welcome your input.

If it wasn't for this forum I think I may have already sold this bike!

Thanx AGAIN! :beerchug:

I am here with you on this one, left seal blew last week. Seals came in yesterday and picked up 15w fork oil today.

Seals

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawasaki-VN750-Vulcan-84-02-Fork-Seals-Dust-Seal-Set_W0QQitemZ120407979554QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item120407979554&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:1|39:1|240:1318


OIL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorex-15W-Fork-Oil_W0QQitemZ180330573533QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item180330573533&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

European seals and performance shock oil, NO chop sticks here. Yes, this is what I am using.


SEAL REPLACEMENT

http://www.bulldogsbike.com/forkseals.htm
 

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Bulldog's write up on the procedure is great, I followed this myself along with the Clymer manual.

Couple of tips, do one fork at a time. This way if you need to use the untouched one for re-assembly, it is available.

When getting the spring clip off the top, use a pry bar under the handlebar (with rag over it to keep from scratching) to press down on the center with a socket over it. This way, with one hand you can depress the center and release the spring tension and have the other hand free to remove the clip.
Otherwise, three hands are helpful.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Discussion Starter #5
Bulldog's write up on the procedure is great, I followed this myself along with the Clymer manual.

Couple of tips, do one fork at a time. This way if you need to use the untouched one for re-assembly, it is available.

When getting the spring clip off the top, use a pry bar under the handlebar (with rag over it to keep from scratching) to press down on the center with a socket over it. This way, with one hand you can depress the center and release the spring tension and have the other hand free to remove the clip.
Otherwise, three hands are helpful.

Jon
Jon --

Many thanx for your tips!! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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Get this and put on your bike ASAP!! :beerchug:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/US-Air-Force-Motorcycle-Guardian-Gremlin-Legend-Bell_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem170321094771QQitemZ170321094771QQptZApparelQ5fMerchandise

Guardian® Bells
The Original Guardian® Bell, Made In the USA, 100% Pewter, Lead Free. Sold Individually Or By Full Display. Each Bell Comes With A Free Felt Pouch and Legend Card. Just in time for christmas for your favorite motorcycle rider.

"Have you ever wished you could get rid of those nasty road "surprises" that turn your ride in the wind into a trip where everything goes wrong? As we all know, life has many mysteries that have no apparent solutions. One of these is Evil Road Spirits. They are the little gremlins that live on your bike. They love to ride. They're also responsible for most of your bike's problems. Sometimes your turn signals refuse to work, or the battery goes dead, the clutch needs adjustment, or any of several hundred things go wrong. These problems are caused by Evil Road Spirits. Road spirits can't live in the presence of the bell. They get trapped in the hollow of the bell. Among other things, their hearing is super sensitive. The constant ringing of the bell and the confined space drives them insane. They lose their grip and eventually fall to the roadway. [Have you ever wondered how pot-holes are formed?] The bell has served its purpose. If you have picked up a bell of your own, the magic will work. But if your bell was given to you, the power has been doubled, and you know that somewhere you have a special friend helping to look after you. So, if you have a friend that doesn't have a bell, why not be the person to give them one? It's a nice feeling for the recipient to know you personally cared. The bell, plus a good preventative maintenance program by the bike's owner, will eliminate the Evil Road Spirits." Also known as Gremlin bells.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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The Professor
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Hey Lance --

I LUV it. :smiley_th I'm going to get one. Where doe one hang this gremlin bell?

Thanx! :beerchug:
Since you did a degoat hang it under there. :smiley_th
 
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Hey Lance --

I LUV it. :smiley_th I'm going to get one. Where doe one hang this gremlin bell?

Thanx! :beerchug:
You should each buy one and then exchange them, as the power is doubled when you recieve one as a gift. Most members who join the Yahoo group need only ask the Bell Fairy for one and like magic...it will show up at your door..(Provided you let the BF know your address)


On a more realistic note...You should always wipe off your fork tubes before you take off on a ride. One of those silicone impregnated "reel cloths" they sell at tackle shops works reel well....

Dirt, bug goo, whatever stuck to the tube will increase seal wear, And effect fork efficiantcy (granted , just a bit)

Some suggest just using a silicone spray, but anything but a real thin coat will just cause dirt to stick to it like it is wet.

KM
 

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Anyone ever come up with a boot or tube to protect the front forks and improve seal wear?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You should each buy one and then exchange them, as the power is doubled when you recieve one as a gift. Most members who join the Yahoo group need only ask the Bell Fairy for one and like magic...it will show up at your door..(Provided you let the BF know your address)


On a more realistic note...You should always wipe off your fork tubes before you take off on a ride. One of those silicone impregnated "reel cloths" they sell at tackle shops works reel well....

Dirt, bug goo, whatever stuck to the tube will increase seal wear, And effect fork efficiantcy (granted , just a bit)

Some suggest just using a silicone spray, but anything but a real thin coat will just cause dirt to stick to it like it is wet.

KM
Good reminder KM! :smiley_th

Thanx! :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Source for Upper Retaining Ring?

Lance et al --

What is a good source for the upper retaining ring? I'm not sure where this ring is located.

Thanx! :beerchug:

 

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The Professor
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Lance et al --

What is a good source for the upper retaining ring? I'm not sure where this ring is located.

Thanx! :beerchug:
Just get it from your local Kaw dealer they are only a couple of dollars. If you inscrew the cap on top of the fork you will see the snap ring.
 

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Hey Lance --

I LUV it. :smiley_th I'm going to get one. Where doe one hang this gremlin bell?

Thanx! :beerchug:
I have a spare. PM me your address, if you want, and it's all yours.

Anyone ever come up with a boot or tube to protect the front forks and improve seal wear?
Sport/Naked bikes have plastic ones that just snap over each fork tube.

The fork brace by Super Brace has one model brace with the protectors mounted on it.

Shouldn't be too hard to make a couple up out of something....if not snap on, maybe with a hose clamp or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Trouble Depressing Top Center Cap to Remove Spring Clip

Bulldog's write up on the procedure is great, I followed this myself along with the Clymer manual.

Couple of tips, do one fork at a time. This way if you need to use the untouched one for re-assembly, it is available.

When getting the spring clip off the top, use a pry bar under the handlebar (with rag over it to keep from scratching) to press down on the center with a socket over it. This way, with one hand you can depress the center and release the spring tension and have the other hand free to remove the clip.
Otherwise, three hands are helpful.

Jon
Hey Jon and fellow Vulcaneers --

I screwed up and forgot to use the excellent tip of a pry bar on the handlebar provided above by Jon. :doh: Now I have the right fork removed but I cannot generate enough force to depress the top cap even though I'm using a large socket with an extension. (I don't have a t-drive extension)

When I put my body weight on the cap the fork depresses absorbing the force. Also the fork is not stable and wiggles around. The fork is so long/tall that it's hard to reach the top when I put it on my vice. Hitting the top of the extension with a hammer so far has not helped.

* would it help to completely remove the allen bolt on the bottom?
* would it help to remove the drain bolt on the side and drain the oil?

HELP! Any suggestions for depressing the top cap with the fork removed!??

I did manage to easily losen the allen bolt on the very bottom of the fork. I used the jack handle as a pipe extension on the allen wrench and it came right off. I attached some pics of what I've done so far.

I would greatly appreciate any ideas to help me remove the spring clip off the top!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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Hey Jon and fellow Vulcaneers --

I screwed up and forgot to use the excellent tip of a pry bar on the handlebar provided above by Jon. :doh: Now I have the right fork removed but I cannot generate enough force to depress the top cap even though I'm using a large socket with an extension. (I don't have a t-drive extension)

When I put my body weight on the cap the fork depresses absorbing the force. Also the fork is not stable and wiggles around. The fork is so long/tall that it's hard to reach the top when I put it on my vice. Hitting the top of the extension with a hammer so far has not helped.

* would it help to completely remove the allen bolt on the bottom?
* would it help to remove the drain bolt on the side and drain the oil?

HELP! Any suggestions for depressing the top cap with the fork removed!??

I did manage to easily losen the allen bolt on the very bottom of the fork. I used the jack handle as a pipe extension on the allen wrench and it came right off. I attached some pics of what I've done so far.

I would greatly appreciate any ideas to help me remove the spring clip off the top!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beerchug:
With the fork removed you will not be able to remove the retainer spring unless you clamp fork in a vise. I would install the fork drain the fluid and then remome the clip
 

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Discussion Starter #18
With the fork removed you will not be able to remove the retainer spring unless you clamp fork in a vise. I would install the fork drain the fluid and then remome the clip
Okay Lance --

I'll install the fork back on the bike and drain the fluid by removing the drain bolt on the side. Then I'll use the "pry bar" method to depress the top cap and remove the clip.

Just to confirm, do I have this correct?

Many Thanx!! :beerchug:
 

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The Professor
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Okay Lance --

I'll install the fork back on the bike and drain the fluid by removing the drain bolt on the side. Then I'll use the "pry bar" method to depress the top cap and remove the clip.

Just to confirm, do I have this correct?

Many Thanx!! :beerchug:
Yup!! Check your PM.
 

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My fork seals are showing dry rot so I'd like to replace them. But when I unscrew my fork caps, it looks a bit different from what I've seen in the notes and writeups here. There is no pressure valve. Just a threaded rod or bolt coming through what almost appears to be a wide brass fender washer. I would have expected to see a nut threaded on there but there isn't one. I have no idea what can be holding it all together without a nut. Where is the retaining clip actually located? Below the "washer"?
 

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