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Discussion Starter #1
OK here goes.
Recently the headlight failure lamp came on. My low beam is weak, but the high beam seem OK. I replaced the bulb, but the problem is the same. I replaced the Reserve Lighting Unit and the Junction Box, but that did not fix the problem.
Looking at the attachment maybe one of you can help me here.The headlight warning lamp comes on when there is battery on the LG/R wire (#1). The LG/R lead comes from the RLU, but as I said I changed that out, so that isn't the cause.
By progress of elimination I have determined that the BL lead (#2) is causing the LR/R lead to have battery on it.
This lead connects to the Junction Box which I have changed out. So, sometning beyond the Junction Box is causing the trouble.
It looks like that when the Headlight Relay is operated there is 12 volts on the BL lead via the 10 amp fuse which is fed with the BR/W lead #4 which in turn goes to the ignition switch.
I must be reading the diagram wrong, or am I missing something?
I am assuming that the 12 volts on lead #2 is a normal condition, so if there were vo voltage on this lead it might cause a voltage output on lead #1 which would acuse the headlight failure lamp to come on.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After much tracing wires and taking voltage and coninuity readings I found the trouble by the progress of elimination.
Several years ago I bought a wrecked 1994 VN 750. The front was trashed, but the rest was OK including the electrical parts.
So, I started replacing electrical components,ie. Reserve Lighting Unit, Junction Box, and finally the dimmer switch. That did it. It was the dimmer switch.
It could have been anything I guess, but at least I'm good to go now.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you.
It was hard to figure out because I could not figure out what caused the Blue lead to go high (12 vvolts). If I han't had the spare parts I'd be still looking.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info
You're welcome.
Sometimes electrical problems can be very to fix, but keep at it, and you can do it.
Bob
 

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ARGH !!!!
I hate electrical problems !!!

Ran the manual's tests on the junction box and the hi/lo headlight switch.
Came up with two bad diodes in the junction box and the headlight switch failed 3 of the 4 tests....ARGH !!!

A stupid headlight switch is over $110 and a junction box is almost $150.

Why in the world would they build the junction box with 4 fuses, 3 relays and 5 diodes in it that is not serviceable????? ARGH !!!

I'm going to remove the headlight/turnsignal/flasher/choke assembly & try cleaning the hi/lo beam switch. Hope the contacts are just dirty (ya right)
Probably can't even get to them to clean the way my luck has been running today.

The only used M/C parts places in town don't have any VN750 parts right now :-(

Probably have to 'bite the bullet' & buy new parts from one of the mail order Kawasaki places. Mean while, the bike is down for repairs till they arrive :-(

Wish I was smart enough to figure out how to bypass all that DOT stuff & wire the headlight direct with fuse, relay, on/off switch, & hi/lo switch.
Heck, they probably have if wired so the bike wouldn't run if you bypass their wiring!

<end rant>

Bill K
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you don't have a kawasaki owner's manual or a Clymer's manual it is inpossible to fix any electrical problem.
Have you ever been to the Yahoo VN 750 group? here is the URL:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/groups/VN750 .
Lots of knowledgable folks there to help you.
Also here, http://www.ronayers.com you might find OEM parts less expensive than from Kawasaki.
Also E-Bay has a VN 750 section where you might find parts.
Good luck.
Bob
 

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It was the dimmer switch!
Bless their little Japanese hearts!They made the left control so you could take it apart.
I disassembled it & found the dimmer switch to be screwed in the housing. I removed it & carefully disassembled it. There are 2 small springs that push the contact plates (2) against the other contact plate that all the dimmer wires are soldered to. All the contacts needed cleaning. I used a little fine sand paper to clean all surfaces. Took the springs out & stretched them a little to increase their tension. applied a thin coat of diaelectric (sp?) grease and reassembled carefully.
IT WORKS FINE NOW ! All the time it was dirty contacts !

Thanks for the tips on the yahoo group (I'm a member there too) and Ron Ayers web site. Ron IS cheaper than the dealer!
I do have the Kawasaki shop manual for this bike. That's where I got the test procedures to check everything.
I have no idea about the diodes in the junction box that didn't test with the ohm meter. But everything works now....I'm happy. I don't have to wait a week for parts & can ride again (at night)

Thanks for your help,
Bill K
 

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I must thank CNI Dawg for starting this thread. I took apart the dimmer switch cleaned it and everything works great now.
 

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Solved!

I had same problem, white headlight indicator came on brightly when I used low beam and the headlight was very weak on high or low beam. I took apart the switch (tips: have good glasses on and a cup for a couple tiny parts and screws - pay attention to how the contact pieces and springs go together as you take it apart), cleaned the contacts (factory lubricant from the ball bearing the switch rotates on had finally gotten onto the contacts - that was the culprit and any little bits of dirt that got into the switch stuck in that lube which increasingly messed up the contacts) and sanded them just a little. Suddenly I have BRIGHT HEADLIGHTS! The blue high beam indicator is lighting up for once and the white low beam indicator is not bright, which is a good thing! Free and 15 minutes is all this one required - gotta love that.
 

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When I bought my bike last winter, I went through all of the connectors in both handlebar switches, and the key switch. All were badly corroded, and when I would turn my handlebars, the darned bike would die. After a few hours of cleaning, and dielectric grease, they all still work good.
It don't take much to corrode the contacts, but at least they are fixable.
 

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I had the same problem with thim dim headlight. When I had it at the mechanic last he went through a whole lot of things and took a week with no results and told me he would have to take a look at the stator. I told him i couldnt afford that much right now and would wait till next year. after I brought it home and reading up on cleaning up the contacts I thought I would give this a try. When I got to the contacts It looked as if some of the plastic had melted around the contact. Did my best to make it come in contact but it didnt change anything. Found a used replacement for $75 but never had the time or money to get it done. Well my brother in law has a small bike shop and never thought about asking him if he had one. last weekend I happened to stop by his shop and he showed me to box of controlers. Low and behold there was a left control for an 84 vn700. Every thing matched up and the light now works fine. Would still like to know why some of the plastic melted
 
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