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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While doing my MCCT conversion today, trying to hear the damn camchain rattles over the baffle-less exhaust noise, I realized I also had an exhaust leak right underneath the coolant tank where I was working. Not only could I hear it, but I could feel it with my hand. Sure enough, when I poked my head under there, I could see a gap around the circumference where the front pipe joins the goat's belly. The clamp bolt is tightened all the way so that makes me wonder if something's missing there - something like a shim or gasket of some kind. Does anyone know or have a diagram of the exhaust system, specifically the RH side? I vaguely recall pulling some snarled up piece of metal out of that area last year with a pair of pliers. It was just rattling and hanging there and there was no fixing it. That might have been what I'm now missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys - I appreciate the prompt replies. Do you think this is the same part that "Wolfie" was referring to in post #67 in the following thread?
my next project
I ask because I've got two handy Harley shops right up the street whereas this stock part looks to be about $14 and a week away.
 

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Thanks guys - I appreciate the prompt replies. Do you think this is the same part that "Wolfie" was referring to in post #67 in the following thread?
my next project
I ask because I've got two handy Harley shops right up the street whereas this stock part looks to be about $14 and a week away.
I think he's talking about the same part, but the one in his picture looks shorter than the kawi part.

There's a pic in this listing, so far I don't see any in the US.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Here's the one I found on eBay. Helped along with the link from mmart, I plugged in my year and bike to Partzilla and got a specific part# of 11009-1480.
Exhaust Pipe Connecting Gasket for Kawasaki 11009-1104, 11009-1480, 11009-1666 | eBay
This doesn't look quite like what you described though, as being oily. But I picture what you mean. I've seen those kinds of gaskets before. (In fact, the picture on Partzilla looks different than this eBay pic.)
Yes, his picture does look shorter. And because he said it's tapered, I'm picturing it more like a wedge than a sleeve, but might be worth a shot if I can find them locally.
 

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Here's the one I found on eBay. Helped along with the link from mmart, I plugged in my year and bike to Partzilla and got a specific part# of 11009-1480.
Exhaust Pipe Connecting Gasket for Kawasaki 11009-1104, 11009-1480, 11009-1666 | eBay
This doesn't look quite like what you described though, as being oily. But I picture what you mean. I've seen those kinds of gaskets before.
Yes, his picture does look shorter. And because he said it's tapered, I'm picturing it more like a wedge than a sleeve, but might be worth a shot if I can find them locally.

Looks like we both found the same listing, with different part numbers.

I came up with 11009-1666 for mine, but Caltric shows the same three part numbers as your listing.

Still $14 and at least 3-4 days to ship.

The dark grey color is from what I was calling greasy. It's like anti-seize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay thanks. And now this daunting question: Am I going to have to take the whole exhaust system apart to get this gasket in, seeing's how it's on the upstream side of the belly?
 

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I never touched the up stream side of the GB, I did however take aluminum foil and folded it over multiple times and wrapped it around the outlet of the pipe going into the muffler. I know that’s “rigging it” but so far so good. But again I have no baffles in my mufflers and just added the foil to “seal” that connection into the muffler clamp
 

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Okay thanks. And now this daunting question: Am I going to have to take the whole exhaust system apart to get this gasket in, seeing's how it's on the upstream side of the belly?
I THINK you can pull the pipe between the jugs and the goat without removing the goat. It's held onto the exhaust port with a split flange, so once you get that loose you should be able to pull the whole thing forward out of the goat. Do a sanity check on that as I'm not near my bike to verify.
 

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I THINK you can pull the pipe between the jugs and the goat without removing the goat. It's held onto the exhaust port with a split flange, so once you get that loose you should be able to pull the whole thing forward out of the goat. Do a sanity check on that as I'm not near my bike to verify.
Yes you can pull the head pipe. Might need a new crush washer but I have reused them. I try not to over tighten the bolts so the washer doesn't flatten out the first use.

Nev r seize is great on the stud threads.

Same deal with the crush gasket, Harley fits it too and they're about $7-8. Sets of four can be cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As a follow up to this thread: First of all, I can now authoritatively recommend against "Wolfie's" suggestion of using those tapered gaskets instead of the larger OEM style ones. I got a pair of them for cheap and they fit but they also leaked. The problem is, they aren't large (long) enough to seal the slits in the couplings. And though the clamp is large enough to cover the slits, it STILL leaks with just those flimsy tapered gaskets. I even tried using both of them, doubled up, to fill the gaps. Ultimately, I ended up buying the one from Caltric on eBay and some crush gaskets and now all is sealed up nice and tight.
Unfortunately, it didn't eliminate all the popping on decel as I was hoping. It cut down some of it and certainly cut down the rattling that was going on at the coupling, but it loves to mutter and pop coming down hills.
How do I know if my mufflers have baffles? When I take them off, I can see all the way through them except for a "screen" at the wide end. Is that the "baffle" or was there more in there originally?
Also, thank you Thorn and Spockster: yes, I was able to do this job by just removing the head pipe. It helped immensely to remove the brake pedal also. While there, I even replaced the acorn nuts with nice new chrome ones from the dealer.
 

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As a follow up to this thread: First of all, I can now authoritatively recommend against "Wolfie's" suggestion of using those tapered gaskets instead of the larger OEM style ones. I got a pair of them for cheap and they fit but they also leaked. The problem is, they aren't large (long) enough to seal the slits in the couplings. And though the clamp is large enough to cover the slits, it STILL leaks with just those flimsy tapered gaskets. I even tried using both of them, doubled up, to fill the gaps. Ultimately, I ended up buying the one from Caltric on eBay and some crush gaskets and now all is sealed up nice and tight.
Unfortunately, it didn't eliminate all the popping on decel as I was hoping. It cut down some of it and certainly cut down the rattling that was going on at the coupling, but it loves to mutter and pop coming down hills.
How do I know if my mufflers have baffles? When I take them off, I can see all the way through them except for a "screen" at the wide end. Is that the "baffle" or was there more in there originally?
Also, thank you Thorn and Spockster: yes, I was able to do this job by just removing the head pipe. It helped immensely to remove the brake pedal also. While there, I even replaced the acorn nuts with nice new chrome ones from the dealer.

Sounds like you have the baffles, been a while since I looked at the mufflers. That screen is what people drill out.

Popping could mean the coast enrichers aren't working. Seafoam freed mine up. Only time mine ever had any popping. ... Stock mufflers, earshave, coasters, and stock settings on the air screws.

A lean setting on the air screws can also cause decel pop.
 

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With the baffles in you should not be able to see all the way through the muffler, the screen is on the back end (close to the GB) and the baffle is held in by three tabs. The rear of the pipe should have a inlet smaller than the diameter of pipe itself, people will drill that plate that surrounds the inlet to get more sound. I removed them completely,
The popping is normally from the EPA system, do you still have that? If so you can marble or coaster those reed valves and that will reduce the popping but you’ll still have some with the mufflers wide open.
Here’s what the mufflers look like with the baffles removed, other pic is the remnants of the baffles after I cut them out.
Automotive tire Wood Auto part Gas Audio equipment
Rectangle Liquid Bottle Automotive tire Wood
 

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Thanks guys - I appreciate the prompt replies. Do you think this is the same part that "Wolfie" was referring to in post #67 in the following thread?
my next project
I ask because I've got two handy Harley shops right up the street whereas this stock part looks to be about $14 and a week away.
That part is for where the exhaust bolts to the head. The crush washer

Sent from my A501DL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
With the baffles in you should not be able to see all the way through the muffler, the screen is on the back end (close to the GB) and the baffle is held in by three tabs. The rear of the pipe should have a inlet smaller than the diameter of pipe itself, people will drill that plate that surrounds the inlet to get more sound. I removed them completely,
The popping is normally from the EPA system, do you still have that? If so you can marble or coaster those reed valves and that will reduce the popping but you’ll still have some with the mufflers wide open.
Thanks for the helpful pics showing the guts of the mufflers. Between what you and Spockster have said, it looks like my mufflers and baffles are intact. The screens are there and the outlets have a significantly narrower insert than the inlets. To clarify, I can't see through them directly but I can see through the screens.
The EPA mod was the first one I did when I got the bike. I removed it all and capped the reed valves with large vacuum caps and plugged the hole in the bottom of the intake duct with a large grommet and some cement.
Pretty sure I cleaned and adjusted everything I could on the carbs when I had those apart last year as well, but that doesn't mean they're right. When it rains tomorrow, I gotta refresh myself on what Spockster means by the air screws.
 

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There is also a vacuum port on the carb body (right side) that I did not cap initially when I marbled the bike and that made it pop a lot, I found out about that port on here and that again made a big difference once I capped it off
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Popping could mean the coast enrichers aren't working. Seafoam freed mine up. Only time mine ever had any popping. ... Stock mufflers, earshave, coasters, and stock settings on the air screws.

A lean setting on the air screws can also cause decel pop.
My air screws were at 2 1/4. I brought them out to 2 1/2 but can't say it helped the popping. I could bring them out more but the bike already smells like it's running a little on the rich side. To check that, I pulled the plugs for the first time since I put them in last summer (2000 mi ago or so). Looks like the front cylinder has been burning nicely with a dry tan patina on the pulled plug. Rear plug was black and, after only idling for about a minute, still a bit shiny. No buildup though.

I cleaned the coast enrichers along with everything else when I had the carbs off last year and, as I recall, they looked fine. But that doesn't mean they are. Is there a way they can just plain fail or is it a matter of them getting stuck from gunk?

Far as I can tell, the bike's been running well otherwise. It starts great, idles well and goes like a raped ape. So really the popping is more a nagging question mark than a major complaint. When I tore all the EPA stuff off, I was hoping that would fix it. Same when I cleaned the carbs, then again when I installed the MCCTs, and now too when I fixed the exhaust leak. But nothing's made any difference.
 

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I always adjust the air screws for the fastest idle.

The enrichers can fail by the rubber rotting or the piston sticking. They open by vacuum, and have a tiny passage to let fuel in. They're susceptible to ethanol just like the jets, a little too long between rides and you've got syrup.

Mine popped on decel for the first hour of the first ride, then I guess the seafoam did it's job.

If you want a huge cannon shot on decel, unplug the vac port on the right side carb. Could split a muffler though. :p
 
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