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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys. Just picked up my 750 this week. It's also my first bike!! Love how it rides. I got it for an absolute steal, so its got higher miles and a few issues. I'll get to the point now...

Previous owner, or the one before him, thought it would be a great idea to put a massive glob of JB weld right over where the stator wiring comes out of the housing (to try to stop a leak)...
I'd like to remove the crap, and get in there and see if I can just replace the grommet and fix the thing properly...

However, we all know JB weld can be a nightmare to remove... And i may end up having to just resort to the angle grinder. If I do, I don't think I'll be able to be delicate enough to save the wires...

If I happen to cut straight through all three wires (I think there are three correct?) will I be able to simply repair them? I'm not an electrical guy so I guess I'd want to know what I'm getting myself into at that point. Could I just shave back some of the rubber, and use a clamp/crimp connector on them and wrap them back up with electrical tape? or would that cause currency/voltage issues?

If I have to replace the entire assembly, then I think I'm screwed, right? because the stator needs to have the motor pulled to gain access to it? unless they did the "mod" to it... I am not looking for that kind of project right now. The bike runs really well, and the oil leak is very minor.

Any advise would be very much appreciated! I will try to post up some pictures of this mess, but suffice it to say they used a LOT of epoxy... :doh:
 

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Oh man I don’t think I’d go that route, electrically speaking any additional “connections” you make can increase resistance and heat across the leads. And like you stated if you cut them and short them out anyway, you’ll screw yourself.
 

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If it were me, I'd just live with the leak if it's small.

If you damage the stator wires, it would be POSSIBLE to splice the wires inside the case and bring the new tails out through the new grommet, but then you've got a home-made splice in a harsh environment (out of sight, inside a case with hot oil). I would avoid that if at all possible.

If you decide you absolutely must attack the JB weld, I'd try to chisel out the wires first, then use heat on the JB left stuck to the case and scrape it off instead of grind, so you don't damage the case (making the new grommet not fit tight at the end of the day)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
any additional “connections” you make can increase resistance and heat across the leads. .
ok, then i definitely don't want to do that. My understanding is that overheating is what causes these stator coils to fail so frequently in the first place. :( thanks for the advice
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it were me, I'd just live with the leak if it's small.

If you damage the stator wires, it would be POSSIBLE to splice the wires inside the case and bring the new tails out through the new grommet, but then you've got a home-made splice in a harsh environment (out of sight, inside a case with hot oil). I would avoid that if at all possible.

If you decide you absolutely must attack the JB weld, I'd try to chisel out the wires first, then use heat on the JB left stuck to the case and scrape it off instead of grind, so you don't damage the case (making the new grommet not fit tight at the end of the day)

I suppose I can live with it, but its not a good look leaking a few drops of oil anywhere I stop lol. I've been keeping an eye on the oil level since I got it and it really is very minor... part of the reason I want to clean it up though is to make sure there isn't another source/leak somewhere else. Thanks for the reply!
 

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any additional “connections” you make can increase resistance and heat across the leads. .
ok, then i definitely don't want to do that. My understanding is that overheating is what causes these stator coils to fail so frequently in the first place. /forum/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif thanks for the advice
No problem, my stator crapped a few months ago, one of the factory bullet connectors was so corroded, I’m sure that was probably a contributing factor to its failure. But like Thorn said if the leak is really minor just deal with it before you cause yourself more headaches.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
When you replace the coil assembly that comes with wiring, where does that connect, inside or outside the housing? Maybe one day ill order that part (can be found for like 50$) and tackle the stator mod project and that might be the best way to take care of this? that way i can chop the old one out without worry. unless the connection is made inside the housing, but that wouldn't make sense to me? it's gotta be outside correct?

edit: referring to this part
 

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Discussion Starter #8
actually i can answer my own dumb question because i see the grommet right there meaning the "bullet connectors" you refer to are indeed outside. so yeah, i think thats what I'm going to have to do.

If I take the cover off just to peek inside will i have to order a new gasket?
 

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actually i can answer my own dumb question because i see the grommet right there meaning the "bullet connectors" you refer to are indeed outside. so yeah, i think thats what I'm going to have to do.

If I take the cover off just to peek inside will i have to order a new gasket?
There’s the plate on the left side of the motor that you can “peek” in from, I’m not sure that has a gasket. The stator cover itself is what can’t be removed without tilting or removing the engine. The stator plate mod can be done but for me personally I would never cut the plate while still on the bike. You’re asking for metal shavings or debris to get into the engine. Those 3 wire leads you see coming out are directly connected to the windings in the stator. I think the company is TOC that sells the modified plate kit but it’s about $400.
I’m not sure I’m following but why do the mod of the bikes charging system is working? I thought the issue was more cosmetic with the JB weld
 

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actually i can answer my own dumb question because i see the grommet right there meaning the "bullet connectors" you refer to are indeed outside. so yeah, i think thats what I'm going to have to do.

If I take the cover off just to peek inside will i have to order a new gasket?
There’s the plate on the left side of the motor that you can “peek” in from, I’m not sure that has a gasket. The stator cover itself is what can’t be removed without tilting or removing the engine. The stator plate mod can be done but for me personally I would never cut the plate while still on the bike. You’re asking for metal shavings or debris to get into the engine. Those 3 wire leads you see coming out are directly connected to the windings in the stator. I think the company is TOC that sells the modified plate kit but it’s about $400.
I’m not sure I’m following but why do the mod of the bikes charging system is working? I thought the issue was more cosmetic with the JB weld
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
There’s the plate on the left side of the motor that you can “peek” in from, I’m not sure that has a gasket. The stator cover itself is what can’t be removed without tilting or removing the engine.
I’m not sure I’m following but why do the mod of the bikes charging system is working? I thought the issue was more cosmetic with the JB weld
ok, so the outer cover doesn't actually seal anything it's just there for protection/cosmetics? I just want to make sure. I have a suspicion that they did the Mod already, but maybe that's giving them too much credit considering the JB weld :confused:

I would do the mod because:
A)replacing the coil is inevitable on these bikes it seems, so itll make that job pretty easy when the time comes,
B) If I do decide to try to remove this JB weld, I'm probably going to mangle the current setup and have to replace it regardless lol.

No, the leak isn't bad enough that it makes running the bike an issue... but it does leave nasty little puddles in the garage or wherever it sits for 30 seconds or more. It's just not legit lol.

Honestly it makes me worried to change the oil because nice fresh oil is going to be less viscous than what's in there now for sure, and it might leak a lot worse :(
 

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For me personally I’d never cut the plate for the stator while on the bike. If it died again I’m getting rid of the bike probably because it’s an expensive fix and I don’t have facilities to do it myself. You can have that plate made but again it’s pricey
 

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Every 30 second drips that find their place on the rear tire can be disastrous.

Oil loses viscosity over time.
New oil should be more viscous, unless your current oil amounts to sludge, which wouldn't be good anyway.

How about cleaning the wound thoroughly, roughing up the old JB Weld for adhesion and then putting another layer on and around the wires, but making sure there's no contact from wire to wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
^^ I was under the impression that it gains viscosity because of buildup and heat, but i guess i've been using my retard science my whole life. lol. Good thing I'm not an engineer. But then why do people tell stories of leaking with fresh oil changes and especially in the case of transmissions/etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
How about cleaning the wound thoroughly, roughing up the old JB Weld for adhesion and then putting another layer on and around the wires, but making sure there's no contact from wire to wire.
the way they globbed the stuff on there its impossible to treat the way it is. I cannot see where its leaking from or reach it properly in order to do that. which is why i think my only option would to be to shear it off with the grinder and be done with it. :crying:

Maybe ill buy a few fine edged files and spend 48 hours of my life getting sufficiently drunk and also losing my sanity grinding it away by hand. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
For me personally I’d never cut the plate for the stator while on the bike. If it died again I’m getting rid of the bike probably because it’s an expensive fix and I don’t have facilities to do it myself. You can have that plate made but again it’s pricey
I thought there were a few guys who sold the plate and it wasn't too pricey?

I guess if you have a lot invested in your bike that makes sense but this is a total learner/project/chop bike for me. it runs well, but I'm not going to invest a lot of cash into doing everything OEM spec when it comes down to it. I'd rather put in the work myself as I usually do on my vehicles and save a lot of money, while also learning about the bike as I do so.

that being said, I'm not the kind of cheapass who is ok having oil leaks and thinks nothing of them. hence why I'd like to figure out how to deal with this properly.

At any rate I appreciate the help so far guys. Glad to know this forum is pretty active :smiley_th
 

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There's an o-ring type gasket on the outer cover, and o-rings on the three screws. They can be reused if not damaged.

The wires for the two pickup coils also pass through the grommet.
 

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For me personally I’d never cut the plate for the stator while on the bike. If it died again I’m getting rid of the bike probably because it’s an expensive fix and I don’t have facilities to do it myself. You can have that plate made but again it’s pricey
I thought there were a few guys who sold the plate and it wasn't too pricey?

I guess if you have a lot invested in your bike that makes sense but this is a total learner/project/chop bike for me. it runs well, but I'm not going to invest a lot of cash into doing everything OEM spec when it comes down to it. I'd rather put in the work myself as I usually do on my vehicles and save a lot of money, while also learning about the bike as I do so.

that being said, I'm not the kind of cheapass who is ok having oil leaks and thinks nothing of them. hence why I'd like to figure out how to deal with this properly.

At any rate I appreciate the help so far guys. Glad to know this forum is pretty active /forum/images/smilies/smiley_thumbs_up.gif
I get what you’re saying, if I had my choice, when the stator blew, I would’ve loved to do the mod, but again, I don’t own metal working tools, and no place to work anyway. Kawasaki was pretty f—ked up when they designed that part of the bike. The ironic part of it is the frame comes off on the other side. Big “duh” on their part. But what I was getting at when you cut the plate there will be metal shavings, I’d be concerned to get that in the engine. That TOC place will exchange your stator cover for a modded cover if you planned on having the bike apart for a while.
But back to that JB weld problem, instead of an angle grinder, what about something a little less brute force and like a dremmel? It’s more precise and probably won’t take you 48hrs lol
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There's an o-ring type gasket on the outer cover, and o-rings on the three screws. They can be reused if not damaged.

The wires for the two pickup coils also pass through the grommet.
ok thank you. It doesnt actually seal any oil does it? the oil should be within the actual stator housing right? so i assume this outer seal is just for a bit of air pressure retainment?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
nstead of an angle grinder, what about something a little less brute force and like a dremmel? It’s more precise and probably won’t take you 48hrs lol
yeah, dremel might work too. but area around the backside of the wires is going to be quite a challenge.
 
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