Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1992 VN750 and it just doesn't seem to be charging the battery very well (hooked it up to a volt meter and it is only cranking like 13 at 5K rpm's...

The shop said there's no real good way to tell if the stator/rotor is bad except to just replace... they also say it's more often the stator rather than the rotor and the cost is $600-$700...

I am not sure if a MF battery will help "solve" the charging issue? Is it a bandaid step that will only last me a season? I don't mind spending the ~$80 for the MF battery if it means the bike starts for me every time I want to ride it next summer...

Can anyone offer suggestions as to which direction?
 

·
2014 KLR 650!
Joined
·
3,365 Posts
I have a 1992 VN750 and it just doesn't seem to be charging the battery very well (hooked it up to a volt meter and it is only cranking like 13 at 5K rpm's...

The shop said there's no real good way to tell if the stator/rotor is bad except to just replace... they also say it's more often the stator rather than the rotor and the cost is $600-$700...

I am not sure if a MF battery will help "solve" the charging issue? Is it a bandaid step that will only last me a season? I don't mind spending the ~$80 for the MF battery if it means the bike starts for me every time I want to ride it next summer...

Can anyone offer suggestions as to which direction?
Now I don't know if I have my voltmeter connected quite right but mine reads 13volts at 3k and above and I have a MF battery. I charged it yesterday and it only took maybe 30 minutes to be fully charged so my guess is it's your battery.

I'm also going to assume that if you are sending over 12volts to the battery then it's charging the battery if the battery is good no?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
See my thread named battery not staying charged. In the electrical section gives a pretty thourough chart on how to check electrical stuff and you can post results and get lots of help...

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,245 Posts
Your shop is full of hacks!

The stator and r/r can be tested with absolute certainty and the procedures are on this site.

I would want to see what your battery voltage is before the engine is started, then work from there. At 13v output, the charging system isn't quite dead yet, could be a weak battery pulling it down.

Don't think I have more than $250 in my stator, balancer, and r/r, but the labor was on me. The parts in my signature are the best ones to use.

PS- My setup runs 14.5v most of the time, a solid 15v when my battery cable came loose, oops.
 

·
2014 KLR 650!
Joined
·
3,365 Posts
So can someone post the link to the best way to hook up the voltmeter. THE BEST WAY for THE MOST ACCURATE reading to a SWITCHED connection. I would appreciate it. I have it coming off the right front running light now which is ok until you turn on a blinker or hit the brake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,245 Posts
Mine is direct to the battery. With the ground going through a toggle switch mounted on the frame between the seat and left side cover. Slide a finger inside to flip it on.

I still see some fluctuation with signals, etc., should be expected.
 

·
2014 KLR 650!
Joined
·
3,365 Posts
Mine is direct to the battery. With the ground going through a toggle switch mounted on the frame between the seat and left side cover. Slide a finger inside to flip it on.

I still see some fluctuation with signals, etc., should be expected.
I'm just such a dolt though and I know I would end up leaving it on and draining the battery.
 

·
..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
·
4,508 Posts
So can someone post the link to the best way to hook up the voltmeter. THE BEST WAY for THE MOST ACCURATE reading to a SWITCHED connection. I would appreciate it. I have it coming off the right front running light now which is ok until you turn on a blinker or hit the brake.
I wired mine to read the battery via the switched "Coil Mod" relay -
(the energized side of relay).
With Ignition switched "ON", Meter always reads the battery...same voltage available to the Ignition Coils. Easy to keep an eye on the charging circuit, thus not get stranded.

:smiley_th
 

·
2014 KLR 650!
Joined
·
3,365 Posts
I wired mine to read the battery via the switched "Coil Mod" relay -
(the energized side of relay).
With Ignition switched "ON", Meter always reads the battery...same voltage available to the Ignition Coils. Easy to keep an eye on the charging circuit, thus not get stranded.

:smiley_th
hmmm ah, I disconnected that particular mod because it wasn't really doing anything different, but I guess I could hook that back up. Or just the relay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,245 Posts
I'm just such a dolt though and I know I would end up leaving it on and draining the battery.
They really don't pull much, I've left mine on just to see, and no difference. But my battery is 101%. With all the dinking around with the key on setting up lights, it's still at 12.85v.

Somewhere I saw a post where they left it on all the time, so they could walk by and see how the battery was doing.

Been all day soldering three wires, and have to redo one, no ride today, too weak and dizzy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,027 Posts
You will get the most accurate reading by connecting it directly to the battery. Whenever I get home and park the bike for the day, I always hook it up to a battery tender so the battery remains fully charged. The slight drain of a meter should have no affect on it.

Batteries aren't what they used to be. I remember when you could let a battery sit for a couple of months, and it would start right up. Now you are lucky if a battery will still turn it over after sitting for 2 weeks. I know that sounds backwards, and everybody is going to disagree, but it is something I noticed over the past 40 years or so. That's why I finally got battery tenders for all my bikes about 3 years ago. I got tired of constantly dead batteries. It wasn't the bike, 5 of them all had the same issue.

I still remember the old tar top batteries that would sit all winter, and then start a car right up. My dad used to stick pennies into the top of these batteries to prevent corrosion of the terminals.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top