[Spockster]

Well, it did take some effort to reinstall the ACCT when I did it early in the season. At the time I just figured the pressure was the result of the spring pushing against the chain guide.

So please help me understand what might have happened instead, and why it needs to be "reset". Does the spring somehow get locked in the extended position once it's removed? If so, why? What sense does that make engineering-wise?

Both of the MCCTs are installed now and have been for the past few months. I still have both of the autos in a ziplock. But I'm worried about that front cylinder because when I went to tighten the MCCT on it yesterday, I kept winding it in without effect. I kept expecting to meet more resistance; maybe even make the idle drop (which happened the first time I dialed them in) but nothing happened. I didn't dare keep going so I quit and called it a night. I still don't dare actually. But it's bugging me no end wondering if I really effed something up in there.

If the tensioner was too tight the chain might wear a bit more on the chain guide. The guide is aluminum with a rubber coating, heavier where the chain rides.

 

[Green1]

If you still have your original ACCTs your might be able to look at them and see their condition. If you try and compress them by hand and are able to your springs (inside) are not doing their job as designed. Then just for fun do as described in the manual and "retract" the plunger with a small screwdriver. That may help exlain why you were able to just install it without following the procedure. Regardless, if there was any damage I am sure you would know by now.

 

[JunkyardDog]

I wouldn't recommend replacing the bolt that came in the tensioner with just an ordinary bolt. It has a large diameter rounded head on it that goes inside the engine, and from what I understand, presses on the chain guide. In the picture, the TOC ones have an even larger rounded head on the bolt. My bike came with manual tensioners, and I haven't ever removed them. I don't hear any noise. Mine are bare metal, not colored.

 

[Acadia86]

Thanks for the assurance and the pointers, Green and Spockster. It does appear that serious harm was done.

I went out this morning and first played with the old ACCTs. They work as expected and did in fact help me better understand how they work. Which is to say that I now better understand the wording of the CAUTION note in the manual - particularly the "non-return" part. So the spring applies outward pressure to the chain guides and stays at that pressure. It doesn't spring back or "bounce" with the fluctuations in the chain. In that respect, they hold firmly just like an MCCT; the only difference being that they extend over time to compensate for chain stretch/wear. (Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about this.)

Incidental side note: The Clymer manual differs from the factory (pdf) manual when it comes to reinstalling the ACCT. Instead of the simple method of holding the screw with the small screwdriver, Clymer, for some inexplicable reason, suggests buying or making a "special tool" for that purpose. One would think that if Kawasaki sells a "special tool" for that purpose, its manual would suggest it - not Clymer's.

Moving on, I then had a fresh look at my front cyl. MCCT - the cylinder I feared that I'd damaged. To my great relief, the "tension" screw did meet with resistance against the chain guide, and without even a full turn beyond what I adjusted it to the other night. What's more, I backed it out while running and heard the chain rattle as expected so was able to adjust it confidently from there.

Oh yes, and, not sure if this matters or not, but I saw nothing unusual in the course of changing my oil recently; no evidence of aluminum or rubber in the oil from any possible guide damage.

I'm looking forward to better night's sleep this evening! And tomorrow I'm planning to go for a nice ride along the coast.

 

[Green1]

I'm glad it appears as though your timing chain is alright. It may have been stretched a bit but they can last for a lot of miles. The "tool" suggested in the Chilton's manual helps hold the tensioner while installing the ACCT. You do not need one though as I have installed using just a screwdriver. Using the tool is faster though.