Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner
21 - 31 of 31 Posts

· Super Moderator
2003 VN750
Joined
·
11,022 Posts
Well, it did take some effort to reinstall the ACCT when I did it early in the season. At the time I just figured the pressure was the result of the spring pushing against the chain guide.

So please help me understand what might have happened instead, and why it needs to be "reset". Does the spring somehow get locked in the extended position once it's removed? If so, why? What sense does that make engineering-wise?

Both of the MCCTs are installed now and have been for the past few months. I still have both of the autos in a ziplock. But I'm worried about that front cylinder because when I went to tighten the MCCT on it yesterday, I kept winding it in without effect. I kept expecting to meet more resistance; maybe even make the idle drop (which happened the first time I dialed them in) but nothing happened. I didn't dare keep going so I quit and called it a night. I still don't dare actually. But it's bugging me no end wondering if I really effed something up in there.
If the tensioner was too tight the chain might wear a bit more on the chain guide. The guide is aluminum with a rubber coating, heavier where the chain rides.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
If you still have your original ACCTs your might be able to look at them and see their condition. If you try and compress them by hand and are able to your springs (inside) are not doing their job as designed. Then just for fun do as described in the manual and "retract" the plunger with a small screwdriver. That may help exlain why you were able to just install it without following the procedure. Regardless, if there was any damage I am sure you would know by now.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I wouldn't recommend replacing the bolt that came in the tensioner with just an ordinary bolt. It has a large diameter rounded head on it that goes inside the engine, and from what I understand, presses on the chain guide. In the picture, the TOC ones have an even larger rounded head on the bolt. My bike came with manual tensioners, and I haven't ever removed them. I don't hear any noise. Mine are bare metal, not colored.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Thanks for the assurance and the pointers, Green and Spockster. It does appear that serious harm was done.

I went out this morning and first played with the old ACCTs. They work as expected and did in fact help me better understand how they work. Which is to say that I now better understand the wording of the CAUTION note in the manual - particularly the "non-return" part. So the spring applies outward pressure to the chain guides and stays at that pressure. It doesn't spring back or "bounce" with the fluctuations in the chain. In that respect, they hold firmly just like an MCCT; the only difference being that they extend over time to compensate for chain stretch/wear. (Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about this.)

Incidental side note: The Clymer manual differs from the factory (pdf) manual when it comes to reinstalling the ACCT. Instead of the simple method of holding the screw with the small screwdriver, Clymer, for some inexplicable reason, suggests buying or making a "special tool" for that purpose. One would think that if Kawasaki sells a "special tool" for that purpose, its manual would suggest it - not Clymer's.

Moving on, I then had a fresh look at my front cyl. MCCT - the cylinder I feared that I'd damaged. To my great relief, the "tension" screw did meet with resistance against the chain guide, and without even a full turn beyond what I adjusted it to the other night. What's more, I backed it out while running and heard the chain rattle as expected so was able to adjust it confidently from there.

Oh yes, and, not sure if this matters or not, but I saw nothing unusual in the course of changing my oil recently; no evidence of aluminum or rubber in the oil from any possible guide damage.

I'm looking forward to better night's sleep this evening! And tomorrow I'm planning to go for a nice ride along the coast.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
I'm glad it appears as though your timing chain is alright. It may have been stretched a bit but they can last for a lot of miles. The "tool" suggested in the Chilton's manual helps hold the tensioner while installing the ACCT. You do not need one though as I have installed using just a screwdriver. Using the tool is faster though.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1,993 Posts
I know this is an old thread, but a simple solution with the ACCT is to drill and tap a set screw in the housing just below the cap. Keeps the tensioner from backing out after install. Has worked great on my 95 for 10+ years and 57k+ miles. Cost .29¢ and some time.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,812 Posts
I bought a set of the blue. So far so good.
They changed their website

 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
155 Posts
Thanks for the assurance and the pointers, Green and Spockster. It does appear that serious harm was done.

I went out this morning and first played with the old ACCTs. They work as expected and did in fact help me better understand how they work. Which is to say that I now better understand the wording of the CAUTION note in the manual - particularly the "non-return" part. So the spring applies outward pressure to the chain guides and stays at that pressure. It doesn't spring back or "bounce" with the fluctuations in the chain. In that respect, they hold firmly just like an MCCT; the only difference being that they extend over time to compensate for chain stretch/wear. (Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about this.)

Incidental side note: The Clymer manual differs from the factory (pdf) manual when it comes to reinstalling the ACCT. Instead of the simple method of holding the screw with the small screwdriver, Clymer, for some inexplicable reason, suggests buying or making a "special tool" for that purpose. One would think that if Kawasaki sells a "special tool" for that purpose, its manual would suggest it - not Clymer's.

Moving on, I then had a fresh look at my front cyl. MCCT - the cylinder I feared that I'd damaged. To my great relief, the "tension" screw did meet with resistance against the chain guide, and without even a full turn beyond what I adjusted it to the other night. What's more, I backed it out while running and heard the chain rattle as expected so was able to adjust it confidently from there.

Oh yes, and, not sure if this matters or not, but I saw nothing unusual in the course of changing my oil recently; no evidence of aluminum or rubber in the oil from any possible guide damage.

I'm looking forward to better night's sleep this evening! And tomorrow I'm planning to go for a nice ride along the coast.
A little tool mentioned in the manual there’s nothing more than a little piece of a aluminum sheet that you make up and you wind spring up and insert it to hold spring in retracted position in place and then when you install the ACCT gently remove the spring at the same time let it Wind down slowly till it touches timing chain and that’s it. I have rebuilt mine with the TOC springs which are stronger then oem and also have used manual ones I bought from TOC while my springs were being rebuilt. The manual adjusters you must use tefelon tape on the threads of the adjuster so you don't get oil leak . The factory shop manual give you the dimensions to make the little tool . When OEM ACCT we’re available they would come with the aluminum tool inserted with the spring retracted. I know this because bought a set for 120.00 years ago .
 

· Super Moderator
2003 VN750
Joined
·
11,022 Posts
Has anybody rebuilt their ACCT with the TOC rebuild kit and are you happy with it?
Most people have reported in the past that spring replacement doesn't last very long. Though I believe that was using factory parts.

If I recall, Buddy said he had success with the TOC rebuild, but wait for confirmation or try searching for the posts.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top