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I had changed my oil 10,440 miles. After approximately 1000 miles i noticed that the oil level was high. I thought that I had over filled it so I changed the oil at 11,430 miles and made sure that i filled it correctly. After 200 miles i noticed that the oil level is high again. It is just below the full line while running. Has anyone else seen this kind of problem? The coolant level has NOT changed, could it be getting gas in the oil?

Joe
 

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jdegreif said:
.... I thought that I had over filled it so I changed the oil at 11,430 miles and made sure that i filled it correctly. After 200 miles i noticed that the oil level is high again. It is just below the full line while running. Has anyone else seen this kind of problem? The coolant level has NOT changed, could it be getting gas in the oil?
Joe
Joe...my oil window is just abt empty when I'm running.
If you're seeing the level at the full line...that must mean you're window is completely dark w/ oil when it's cool, right? This would be overfilled...by how much you can't tell.
When you say you made sure you filled it correctly...how much did you pour in?? How long did you let it drain before you added the new stuff?? You did the change while on the centerstand, right?? The reason I ask is because, counter-intuitively or not, it's been my recent experience that you will get more oil out by using the centerstand than by letting the bike lean.
I just 'proved' this on Fri...removed the filter & I drained the oil while on the side stand. Went to Wally world to pick up the RotellaT. Half hr later came back to find nothing drizzling out, so I popped her up on the centerstand, and what a mess!! I'll bet another 3 or 4 oz splashed on the garage floor. I would have not had a problem with too much oil, tho, because I watch the window when filling, not depending on a 'measured' amount.

If you did everything right, and you are seeing that much oil in the window, I'm thinking oil pump or a clogged oil line. Every third change I run some Gunk engine cleaner in the old oil when I warm it up to try to prevent this....
I would think you'd be able to see gas in the oil, esp if you let the old stuff sit overnite. You might even be able to see it sitting on top of the oil in the window after sitting for a few days...but I am not sure how it could happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I never really pay attention to actual quantity added. I fill it to just below the full line. I let it run for a few minutes then let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes and check the level again, on the center stand. I even checked it the following day and the level was good. Then a few hundred miles and the level is too high. I thought that the oil had a slight gas smell but I am not sure. It is quite baffling, I change the oil the same way every time and this is the first time that I have had any problems. I did have the idle mix screws out about 4 turns, or so, to reduce the popping on decel and I am thinking that this may possibly allow gas into the crank case?
 

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4 turns is way too much. The gas smell in your oil is a significant clue. Turn those mix screws back in and change your oil right away.
 

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dennisinmd said:
4 turns is way too much. The gas smell in your oil is a significant clue. Turn those mix screws back in and change your oil right away.
...Amen.
Joe...get those mixture screws back to 2 1/2 to 3 turns out max. Make sure this is starting from where they are 'lightly seated'. You may get some popping, but DMd is correct...4 turns out is too far. I'm no carb expert...I'm not sure how
this would let gas into the oil, but you've got the AF mixture too rich at small throttle openings...
 

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This is probably a closed subject, but I had a honda that had a bad float needle and it would let gas drain into my oil and fill up the cylenders to the point it wouldnt turn over, due to good rings, but less tight rings will let it through into your oil overnight. petcock on our bike should prevent this, unless it is like my wifes bike and my honda, and it is bad and the gas can flow without vacuum. so with these 2 things, you can end up with "more" oil, whitch is part gas. Not sure how you could get the idle screws out enough to fill the engine in such a way, and it still run, so I dont think that is it, even though I totally agree that 4 turns is excessive and will cause plug fouling and carbonation in cylender.

beavis
 

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jdegreif,

On your next oil change fill your filter with oil and pour out whatever amount doesn't get absorbed by the fliter's media then spin it on. Now with your bike on the centersatnd (on level ground) pour in your new oil to get the level the 1/2 mark in the sight glass. Ride the bike around the block then check the oil on the centerstand with the engine off and add oil, if ya need to, to get the level to 1/2 mark in the sightglass. I agree with Beavis, your mixture screws at 4 turns are close to falling out! Set them at 2-3 turns out (stock is 1 5/8). I'm at 650 ft altitude and run 2 1/8 turns with a stock bike and she starts well, pulls hard, has no flat spots, if I ride easy she'll get 56 mpg and the plugs look great!


John,

I just read your post. I had the complete opposite experience you had. I usually change my oil on the side stand, as most of us do because Kaw says to. On my last oil change, as a test, I drained on the centerstand and maybe a 1/2 hour later when the flow had stopped I put the drain plug back in and put my Vulcan on the sidestand, pulled the drainplug and got out another 4 oz or so.
 

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Thats some good info. I just changed my oil a week ago, wish I would have known before hand. I change mine on the center stand, or used to, and I noticed it taked a long time for it to drain. Just thought it was normal.
 

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Bruce John said:
Joe..My OM says to "Let the oil completely drain with the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground." To me, that means on the centerstand. But my Clymer's says to "....place the bike on level ground on the sidestand", as you say. Go figure....
I'll use both ways again next time and see if I get the same results...
 

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Bruce said:
John,

I just read your post. I had the complete opposite experience you had. I usually change my oil on the side stand, as most of us do because Kaw says to. On my last oil change, as a test, I drained on the centerstand and maybe a 1/2 hour later when the flow had stopped I put the drain plug back in and put my Vulcan on the sidestand, pulled the drainplug and got out another 4 oz or so.
Bruce...my OM says to "Let the oil completely drain with the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground". To me this means on the centerstand. But my Clymer's says to "...place the bike on level ground on the sidestand." as you say. Hhmmmmmm...
Next time, I will try both methods again as above and see what happens..sidestand first, then centerstand (or just upright). I could have it said it backwards tho, knowing me....
 

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John,

I just checked my OM and it too says to pull the side drainplug and "With the MC held level, let the oil completely drain." I must have read the Clymer method and thought that was the Kaw method.

One method that I really like, and usually use, is to let the bike (any bike) drain for 24 hrs. I'll pull the plug on Mon when I get home from work and finish up the oil change Tues.
 

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This is just my two cents, but I would assume that by "level ground" they mean front-to-back. seeing as how the drain plug is on the left side, it would make sense to have the bike on the side stand on level ground...
 

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nitrofish420 said:
This is just my two cents, but I would assume that by "level ground" they mean front-to-back. seeing as how the drain plug is on the left side, it would make sense to have the bike on the side stand on level ground...
Nitro...I think having the bike on 'level ground' front to back is a given. But that quote from my post that says 'perpendicular to the ground' is right out of the OM. There's only one perpendicular...the bike has to be straight up and down side to side...on the centerstand, and on level ground.
That's what makes this so counter-intuitive...you would think you'd get more oil out by tilting the bike towards the hole. I was really suprised when I got more oil out after I took her off the side stand. Must be some oil journals in there (angled down and to the right) that must be perpendicular to the ground in order to drain, or tilted to the RIGHT side.
In just about 1000mi I will re do this experiment and report back if anyone wants to know....ITMT if someone reading this thread can do sooner I, for one, am very interested in the results....
 

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Nitro,

As I said in my last post, this is the exact wording in my '96 owner's manual:
"With the MC held level, let the oil completely drain." Yep, it does sound counter-intuitive but at least we know 98% of the old oil will come out of the sideplug on the sidestand so it's not a big deal. I know some guys on the Yahoo group were draining from the middle plug because they didn't check or have an OM.
 

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I'm interested to see what jm1515's experiments yield. Indeed it is counter-intuitive to think more would come out while level, but I suppose there might be baffeling on the inside of the crankcase that may trap oil pockets while tilted left.
 

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If you drain it on the side stand, then also drain it on the center stand, then again on the side stand, won't you be sure to get it all out?
 

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That would certainly do it! I think draining on the sidestand like the Clymer manual says is fine - You'll get out the old oil - maybe not every drop but close.
 
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