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Linkmeister Supreme
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Discussion Starter #1
When I got back to riding last season after missing 4 riding seasons due to an accident, I had to rotate the shift lever up one spline. This was necessary because my ankle is not as flexible as it used to be, and also I now have a 3/4" lift in the sole of my left shoe. Therefore I could not get my toe under the shift lever "pedal" to upshift until I rotated it up one spline.

I finally got the engine guard and highway pegs mounted on the bike, then discovered on the test ride that I could not shift into second gear due to clearance issues with the engine guard. I am curious to know if anyone else has had a similar problem, and what you did to get around it.

I think an extra 1/4" vertical movement is all I need to be able to reliably upshift. I was talking to a Nomad rider yesterday at bikenight who has an acetylene welding torch. Our thoughts are to clamp the shift lever in a vise, heat it red hot down at the bend then pull the lever out a few degrees to open the bend a few degrees. I know this will probably discolor the stainless steel lever and maybe take some strength out of it too. So is this a smart thing to do, or should I find a different method to get the shift clearance I need?
 

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Banned
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....what I did on my older FWD controls setups was to cut a "V" out of the top, bend it, then reweld.....once ground and polished, you can barely tell.
 

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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628 Posts
Had the same problem with mine, couldn't shift into 2+. I just took the lever off and rotated it down a couple notches on the shaft. worked like a champ.

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bamafrankie
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83 Posts
I think he is talking about bending it sideways so the shifter goes up along side the crash bar. Hoss you could use a press if you know anybody that has one

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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628 Posts
I went back and read the OP and I think you're right bama. I think there's three options. Bend it out past the guard, fabricate a heel/toe shift lever or make a bracket that drops the peg and rotate the shifter down.

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Super Moderator
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I always thought the guard was poorly designed.... Hoss is not the first person to have problems with the shifter with the thing installed.

I though his problem was about the up/down position, not the side to side one.

Guess he can clear that up...
 

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bamafrankie
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83 Posts
I have the same prob with mine i wear steel toed boots for work had to move shifter up a spline or two so i could fit the boots under the shifter, wouldnt work i had to move it back just dont ride my bike to work. Looking for forward controls or going to build some to solve problem,( or removed engine guard)

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Most FWD controls wont work with the stock F and S guard....another Kawi screwup....a HORIZONTAL guard instead of a vertical one as is the norm....geez !....too much Saki that week I guess, lol....

If I still had my guard layin about, Id make a working shifter for ya bro.....no way to measure/judge now....
 

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bamafrankie
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83 Posts
The main reason i got the bike was to save gas driving to and from work . I cant drive it with my steel toe boots . I guess ill get off my lazy a** one day and fix something up.

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Discussion Starter #15
I think he is talking about bending it sideways so the shifter goes up along side the crash bar. Hoss you could use a press if you know anybody that has one

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I went back and read the OP and I think you're right bama. I think there's three options. Bend it out past the guard, fabricate a heel/toe shift lever or make a bracket that drops the peg and rotate the shifter down.

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I always thought the guard was poorly designed.... Hoss is not the first person to have problems with the shifter with the thing installed.

I though his problem was about the up/down position, not the side to side one.

Guess he can clear that up...
KM is right, my problem is vertical movement. I need the pedal between the stock spline position and the position when the shift lever is rotated one spline up. There are 32 splines on the shaft which translates into 11.25* per spline. I just went out and measured the clearance between engine guard and shift lever in the stock position and with the lever rotated one spline up, which is where it has been for the past 2 riding seasons.

With the lever rotated one spline up there is about one inch vertical movement possible before the pedal contacts the guard.
I think I need about another 1/4 inch clearance to shift reliably.
Even without the guard this position is not ideal. With the limited flexibility of my ankle and the 3/4" lift in the sole of my left shoe, I have to really concentrate to lift my toe high enough to shift. I often have to lift my foot off the peg to complete the shift. Because the pedal is so high I also have to lift my foot off the peg to downshift.

With the lever splines mounted in stock position the pedal is about 2 1/2" below the guard and has plenty of clearance to shift without contacting the guard. MY problem is that I cannot tip my injured ankle down far enough to get my toe under the pedal to lift it to upshift.

So what I need is to bend the lever forward to place the pedal about halfway between current spline positions. With the lever mounted one spline up, that should make upshifts possible without hitting the guard, and both upshifts and downshifts easier without lifting my foot off the peg.:rockon::motorcycl

bamafrankie, I had not thought about bending the lever sideways, but it is an option, and would only require about half an inch lateral movement.

Jakzen, I thought about a heel and toe shifter a couple of years ago, but did not see any easy way to mount a heel shifter. If bending the lever forward does not prove to be entirely satisfactory for me I may explore the heel shifter idea further. :)
Looking at the shifter now it may be possible to weld a heel shifter to it.
Making the heel shifter independently adjustable from the toe shifter is the real challenge.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Discussion Starter #18
Well, I got the shift lever bend opened up enough to be able to shift now without interference from the engine guard. I may still take the engine guard off though.

The main reason I wanted it was to mount the Kury Offset highway pegs to be able to stretch my legs out a bit more. Unfortunately the curved guard does not allow the pegs to be mounted far enough forward to give me any more leg room than Ma Kaw's OEM foot pegs give me. I may take the guard off and make a triangular brackets for highway pegs out of 3/8" aluminum plate similar to the ones lance328/Ron used to make. I think it was originally Knifemaker's design. Just looking at where they will be mounted I can tell there will be several inches more leg room.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Discussion Starter #19
I take back all the nasty things I said about the engine guard and offset Kury pegs in the last post.

I went back out and looked things over again and realized if I rotated the pegs down about 90* from their present position they actually would be farther away and allow me to stretch out. Yeah!!!

So now the highway pegs are positioned such that I have 3 basic feet positions to shift around on now.
First is on the stock pegs.

Second is resting my heels on the stock pegs and my size 13 feet on the highway pegs, where they are virtually covering the shifter and rear brake pedals respectively.

Third is stretched out with my feet wholly on the highway pegs.
In this position I can even reach the rear brake with my heel for slowing down.
I am going to have to practice this procedure some more when there is no traffic to see just how controllable and safe it is.
I think it is going to be ok for minor speed adjustments on the highway, but too dicey for any sort of full on quick stop.
 
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