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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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Discussion Starter #1
Recently spoke with a local dealer about how much a stator replacement would cost. Service guy asked what the trouble was and I told him of the stair measurements I had taken, etc., adn he said they sounded low but within normal range. He asked what type of battery I had and told him a M/F AGM and he said it might be part of the problem. He suggested that before I put the $$$ into a stator replacement, might try a new Lead Acid as they require less voltage to charge than a M/F. He said M/F's probably work fine with a new stator pushing 14-15Vdc but need that to "activate" the chemicals to allow charging. Since Lead Acid batteries do fine on high 12.5-13.5Vdc (mine runs around 13-13.2Vdc at 4K rpm) it should be enough to keep the battery charged up.

What do you guys think?
 

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Love My Baby
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This dealer guy is full of you know what. Go somewhere else.
 

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Registered
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I did a lot of research using this site and others before investing in a M/F AGM battery. M/F AGM is the way to go.

If your system can't keep it charged, then the system, faulty battery or system load is at fault and needs to be corrected.
 

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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Understand, and I'm with you but I was encouraged that at least he was turning away business in a stator replacement and suggesting I try a $50 fix rather than give him $600. Don't often find that at a dealer....
 

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Premium Member
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Or, sell you a $50 battery you don't need and then do the stator replacement!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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It sounds to me like the dealers service guy doesn`t know as much about MF-AGM batteries and the somewhat anemic charging systems that many (most?) bikes suffer from.
 

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Super Moderator
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MF batteries will charge at anything over 12.8 volts. Usualy 13.5 volts is considered the normal charging voltage, but if you are getting 13.0 you are in fact charging the battery. Due note that riding very short distances may be insufficaint to fully charge, but using a trickle charger can solve that when not riding.

I would instead check all your connections and clean them off to make sure you are not losing any voltage due to a bad connection. If you are in fact getting 13 volts at 4000 rpms it would seem to me that your stator is working fine but you might want to check your R/R as this is what converts the stators output to DC volts to charge the battery.


KM
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
Recently spoke with a local dealer about how much a stator replacement would cost. Service guy asked what the trouble was and I told him of the stair measurements I had taken, etc., adn he said they sounded low but within normal range. He asked what type of battery I had and told him a M/F AGM and he said it might be part of the problem. He suggested that before I put the $$$ into a stator replacement, might try a new Lead Acid as they require less voltage to charge than a M/F. He said M/F's probably work fine with a new stator pushing 14-15Vdc but need that to "activate" the chemicals to allow charging. Since Lead Acid batteries do fine on high 12.5-13.5Vdc (mine runs around 13-13.2Vdc at 4K rpm) it should be enough to keep the battery charged up.

What do you guys think?
Your problem has been highlited!!!!!! :doh:

My stator and R/R is 25 years old and I have a Brand New Deka MF/AGM Battery!!!!

Still pushing 14.5V!!! :smiley_th
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
All MF AGM batteries are lead/acid. The difference between the two is the AGM has the acid absorbed in glass matt like water in a paper towel instead of flooding the battery with acid.

MF AGM batteries do not need a higher voltage to charge, if your system will charge a wet cell battery it will charge a MF AGM battery.

Wet cell batteries will drain their charge faster than an AGM when not in use and an AGM will store more energy when in use.

Wet cell batteries are generaly good for 1-2 years, an AGM is good for 3-6 years.
 

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Premium Member
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AGM batteries also have a lower internal resistance so they load less when charging (good for our dainty charing systems), for the same reason they also do not get as hot as flooded wet cells (lower chance of boiling them), and they are also much better for shock and vibration than standard flooded wet cells.

There is no good reason, other than financial, for ever using a flooded wet cell.

Jon
 

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Premium Member
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There is no good reason, other than financial, for ever using a flooded wet cell.

Jon
Right, but if the financial situation doesn't require a cheap wet cell, with it's longer life, the MF AGM is cheaper in the long haul.
 

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Premium Member
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Right, but if the financial situation doesn't require a cheap wet cell, with it's longer life, the MF AGM is cheaper in the long haul.
Ding !!!

R/R = $ 125 Stator = $ 140, plus labor >>>> AGM Cost


Jon
 

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i have a wet cell battery that was in the bike when i got it. im going on two years now without a glitch. i do check the acid/water levels once a month during the riding season & have a volt meter to monitor the charging system. i have yet a need to put the charger on it. im knocking MF battries at all, im just giving my situation. if i need to replace it i will go with a MF beacuse you all recommend them.
 

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Registered
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Keep in mind that "Maintenance Free" batteries may be flooded, Gel, or Absorbed Glass Mat . The AGM is the best and is available at Walmart . I saw a 14AH for $65 and one for $75, both were AGM with MAXX on the box.
 

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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
MF batteries will charge at anything over 12.8 volts. Usualy 13.5 volts is considered the normal charging voltage, but if you are getting 13.0 you are in fact charging the battery. Due note that riding very short distances may be insufficaint to fully charge, but using a trickle charger can solve that when not riding.

I would instead check all your connections and clean them off to make sure you are not losing any voltage due to a bad connection. If you are in fact getting 13 volts at 4000 rpms it would seem to me that your stator is working fine but you might want to check your R/R as this is what converts the stators output to DC volts to charge the battery.
KM
KM - Roger all on cleaning contacts, etc., done and done again. Trickle charge my AGM every night to make sure I have fresh batt for the next ride. Seem to push 13Vdc fairly consistently at 4K and short rides may be part of the issue. But you would think if just running around town, you should expect to get a relatively strong start every time but mine gets dicier each time. Just trying not to get stuck somewhere.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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KM - Roger all on cleaning contacts, etc., done and done again. Trickle charge my AGM every night to make sure I have fresh batt for the next ride. Seem to push 13Vdc fairly consistently at 4K and short rides may be part of the issue. But you would think if just running around town, you should expect to get a relatively strong start every time but mine gets dicier each time. Just trying not to get stuck somewhere.
Just a suggestion here rs. Practice doing a push or roll start, a couple of times, before you HAVE to do one.
NOTE: If you can get the bike into 2nd or 3rd gear, it is a lot easier to overcome engine compression for a push start, than if the bike is in 1st gear.
 

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Super Moderator
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11,958 Posts
Have you relocated your R/R ? Again... I would suggest checking the R/R first as it is the thing that turns the AC volts to DC volts to charge the battery. Replacing this is alot easier and cheaper than the Stator.

There is proceedure to check not only the stator but the R/R unit somewhere in the Verses I believe. I would do this before taking it to a shop in a heartbeat. (I rarely trust dealers)

KM
 

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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Have you relocated your R/R ? Again... I would suggest checking the R/R first as it is the thing that turns the AC volts to DC volts to charge the battery. Replacing this is alot easier and cheaper than the Stator.

There is proceedure to check not only the stator but the R/R unit somewhere in the Verses I believe. I would do this before taking it to a shop in a heartbeat. (I rarely trust dealers)

KM
Roger all KM. :smiley_th Have replaced my R/R with a brand new one (thanks Lance) and relocated (thanks Fergy) so R/R potential issue eliminated. Have tested the stator per verses and other recommendations (and manual) and it is definitely not performing as designed. That said, if I can get by a little longer without replacing, my wallet will thank me. :)
<BREAK>
Hoss - Rolling starts are old hat to me. Have done several on the bike and MANY on the old Mustangs I used to have. (I like pushing the bike MUCH better!) Always park on the highest "hill" I can find nearby just to be safe. :beerchug:
 

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Registered
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Wet cell batteries are generaly good for 1-2 years, an AGM is good for 3-6 years.
I ran a Sears DieHard Gold wet cell for more than 7 years then put it in my Yamaha XS 650 and is still working fine.

Using Sears AGM because our VN's need the extra cranking amps.

DT
 
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