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Discussion Starter #1
What’s up all, when I left work today and opened my top box to get my helmet I heard a weird squeak. The typical metal on metal type noise. So upon further inspection I realized the left side of the luggage rack seemed a bit loose and it was the source of the squeak. Got home popped off the seat and the tool box and realized it was not loose. It cracked right at the bracket. I don't really think I had a lot in the top box mounted to it, but i always thought its position was too cantilevered and these streets around here are terrible and the constant banging around just torqued it too much. I’m glad I noticed it because if the other side snapped that would’ve sucked for anyone behind me.

Anyway, I know these are impossible to find so my question is are there any aftermarket ones that fit? If not is this even the type of metal that can be welded? I’m skilled but I have zero metalworking experience so I’m making no assumptions. The other option I considered is since the tubing is hollow, I could possibly put a smaller metal rod inside to brace it and run a few screws through it. Hoping someone on here may have a good idea

But this is what I’m working with
 

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NewB to Vulcans
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Its probably thin wall steel tube with chrome plate.

I would find a steel tube or rod that fits snugly inside a couple inches long as reinforcement, clean up the broken edges put it together and weld the joint and filler together.
 

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Bummer.

I don't know for certain, but I'd guess the racks are fabricated from mild steel, then chrome plated. A welding shop could grind off the chrome in the surrounding area (as it creates poisonous gas when heated), then weld it back together, and then you'd have to have it sent somewhere to be chromed again. You could probably have it powder-coated for cheaper, but without the bling factor.

You could try bolting to a plug, but it'd probably always be a little loose and floppy, and would eventually fail as the bolts wore through the tube.
 

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The rack is made from steel tube and chrome plated.
As TonyO said, use some inserted back-up rod to fit the ID.
If you know a Tig welder, get them to weld it with stainless rod.
I've Tig welded lots of chromed hydraulic cylinder rod from dozers and backhoes that were deeply scored from rock scrapes and caused the seals to leak. I've had no problem welding them with stainless rod adjacent to the chromed surface and sanding/honing them down to surface diameter.
On your rack there would likely be a little rust form between the stainless weld and the chrome, but I would just rattle can spray it with clear coat after welding and grinding/sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Appreciate the input, I’ll have to look around for a welding shop around me because I don’t have the tools to do anything like what you guys are talking about. Now my brother in law makes his living metalworking, but the problem there is he’s in Seattle and I’m in Philly! Depending on what local folks want to charge me I still may end up shipping it out to him.

The bling factor isn’t really a deal breaker for me. With the top box mounted on it it’s basically unseen so I’d be content just preventing it from rusting.
 

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I have one of those racks. I think it can be repaired by using a smaller diameter tube inside, and welding it. It won't look that great, and the cost of getting it rechromed would be absurd. I've had a few things crack on these bikes. I've been through three license plates. Amost certainly caused by metal fatigue, which in turn was caused by vibration, even though the Vulcan 750 is a fairly smooth bike. Could be that high frequency vibrations are more likely to cause that type of damage than low frequency, ala Harley. Yes, Vulcan 750s are getting harder and harder to find parts for, which has me a bit concerned.
 

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My license plate split recently too. From what I can tell it was from being buffeted by the wind, which stressed the top two bolt holes. I made a backing plate to reinforce it, which seems to be working out well.
 

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Headbanger/Popes of Hell
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What’s up all, when I left work today and opened my top box to get my helmet I heard a weird squeak. The typical metal on metal type noise. So upon further inspection I realized the left side of the luggage rack seemed a bit loose and it was the source of the squeak. Got home popped off the seat and the tool box and realized it was not loose. It cracked right at the bracket. I don't really think I had a lot in the top box mounted to it, but i always thought its position was too cantilevered and these streets around here are terrible and the constant banging around just torqued it too much. I’m glad I noticed it because if the other side snapped that would’ve sucked for anyone behind me.

Anyway, I know these are impossible to find so my question is are there any aftermarket ones that fit? If not is this even the type of metal that can be welded? I’m skilled but I have zero metalworking experience so I’m making no assumptions. The other option I considered is since the tubing is hollow, I could possibly put a smaller metal rod inside to brace it and run a few screws through it. Hoping someone on here may have a good idea

But this is what I’m working with
yup, I've seen this before. it happened to EZ-C. He had it fixed somehow. I think he did the tube inside the tube deal. lol

well, if push comes to shove, you could always buy the one Ruger has for sale. :wink2::grin2:
 

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Wow, never seen one break. They are generally well made, and although they warn you not to put more than 6 pounds on the rack (I’ve actually stood on mine) I’d say your right it was just metal fatigue from stress over time.
The welding suggestions above should work. You might want to install some kind of block under the rack when you re-install it, that goes from one of the racks rungs to the fender. This would take some stress off the apparent weak spot of the rack when your case is loaded and your going over bumpy roads.

It’s been known for years that licence plates will crack do to vibration (not wind) and it’s a good idea to back them with some heavier gauge metal. ;)
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #10
What’s up all, when I left work today and opened my top box to get my helmet I heard a weird squeak. The typical metal on metal type noise. So upon further inspection I realized the left side of the luggage rack seemed a bit loose and it was the source of the squeak. Got home popped off the seat and the tool box and realized it was not loose. It cracked right at the bracket. I don't really think I had a lot in the top box mounted to it, but i always thought its position was too cantilevered and these streets around here are terrible and the constant banging around just torqued it too much. I’m glad I noticed it because if the other side snapped that would’ve sucked for anyone behind me.

Anyway, I know these are impossible to find so my question is are there any aftermarket ones that fit? If not is this even the type of metal that can be welded? I’m skilled but I have zero metalworking experience so I’m making no assumptions. The other option I considered is since the tubing is hollow, I could possibly put a smaller metal rod inside to brace it and run a few screws through it. Hoping someone on here may have a good idea

But this is what I’m working with
yup, I've seen this before. it happened to EZ-C. He had it fixed somehow. I think he did the tube inside the tube deal. lol

well, if push comes to shove, you could always buy the one Ruger has for sale. /forum/images/VN750_2015/smilies/tango_face_wink.png/forum/images/VN750_2015/smilies/tango_face_grin.png
Spoken like a true opportunist lol. PM me your price. I may be interested. I’m taking this one to my friends brother later. He’s the kind of guy that has a “guy” to take care of everything. Even if he fixes it I may take you up on it because a spare is not a bad idea and I really don’t want to get rid of the top box. It’s a Givi and I paid up a little for it because the cheap eBay one I had at first cracked pretty quick and I wanted something that was made better. This one survived me dumping the bike a few months back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, never seen one break. They are generally well made, and although they warn you not to put more than 6 pounds on the rack (I’ve actually stood on mine) I’d say your right it was just metal fatigue from stress over time.
The welding suggestions above should work. You might want to install some kind of block under the rack when you re-install it, that goes from one of the racks rungs to the fender. This would take some stress off the apparent weak spot of the rack when your case is loaded and your going over bumpy roads.

It’s been known for years that licence plates will crack do to vibration (not wind) and it’s a good idea to back them with some heavier gauge metal. /forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif
I thought about this too, maybe try something rubber to dampen it. We’ll see, should be able to repurpose something. I also think it’s a wise idea to somehow strap the last rung under the seat to the top of the fender we’re it bolts in. That might be overkill but it’ll bring piece of mind.
 

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Headbanger/Popes of Hell
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so, what ever happened? did you get it fixed? if so, please, share how you did. this maybe some useful info for a future member.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So my buddy’s brother looked at it, he said the metal is fairly thin so the “fix” which might last or not (we'll see) is another rod inserted in the center super tight and it looks like he used some sort of industrial adhesive. It’s been holding up and feels a lot more rigid then it was before. Also for sanity I’ve put a few heavy duty wire tires strapped under the seat onto the fender to the first rung on the rack to pull it in and that too took the play out of it. I never posted back because in my mind the jury is still out on whether or not this is a solid fix. He didn’t charge me so I’m at no lost. I used that money to get new MCCT’s and new protac back rest. If it breaks again, I’ll probably sell the top box and switch to saddle bags or something like that.
In short, it’s been about a month and it’s holding up, and it’s definitely not because the streets in the greater philly area have miraculously become smooth and pothole free lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well the f—kin thing broke again, this time the other side cracked as well. I’m not sure it’s even worth fixing again. This top box just sits too far out because of the back of the seat.

Bummer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Truly a bummer. Just curious, how heavy is your top-box, and how much weight do you put in it?
Here’s the box

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/givi-e340nta-tech-34l-monolock-top-case

The box with the few things I keep in there can’t weigh more than 5lbs. After it broke the first time I moved my wrenches into the back of the seat. The last few times I “loaded” it was with rolls from the local bakery! I’m Sicilian so I need fresh bread lol. But in all seriousness I never carry anything heavy. Since I haven’t been in the office for a few months I’ve been taking it off most of the time. I’m pretty sure if the passenger seat didn’t have a back I’d be able to move the box back a couple inches and that would change the physics and cut down on the flexing and torquing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Well let's see how this holds up, if it works I'll be happy because it cost less than $20. I just got a length of steel tube, a couple long lag bolts, and a cobalt drill bit.
I cut two lengths of the steel tube and then cut them down the middle to make brackets, and the I cut the lag bolt head and threads off just to use the shaft as an inside support for the rack. I screwed it all together and dry fit everything on the bike to see if it was straight and if it would fit. It looked good and the tool kit on the seat back still made it on so I took it back off, broke it down, and JB Welded it.
 

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So you put a saddle on it. Keep the bolts tight, I don't see why it won't hold.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So you put a saddle on it. Keep the bolts tight, I don't see why it won't hold.
If that’s the technical term for it then yes lol, it feels like it should hold. I also ordered a 4 x 4 x 1in block of rubber to mount underneath the rack on top of the taillight. It’ll protect the light and should leave no room for the rack to flex.
 
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