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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys back again with an issue! Fixed a leaking petcock that I had with the bike. Fired it up no issues ran and idled great. Fixed this on thursday. Went to start it now I didn't notice the fuel switch was off fired up and ran fine then shut off. Realized I shut the fuel off turned it back on went to start it kept clicking over for a few then a LOUD popping noise. I thought I blew the engine up! Waited a minute after checking for oil pouring out nothing tried again made the popping noise again. What's going on?!?!?!? There is a small oil leak but it's not pouring out. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Hey guys back again with an issue! Fixed a leaking petcock that I had with the bike. Fired it up no issues ran and idled great. Fixed this on thursday. Went to start it now I didn't notice the fuel switch was off fired up and ran fine then shut off. Realized I shut the fuel off turned it back on went to start it kept clicking over for a few then a LOUD popping noise. I thought I blew the engine up! Waited a minute after checking for oil pouring out nothing tried again made the popping noise again. What's going on?!?!?!? There is a small oil leak but it's not pouring out. Any help would be appreciated!

What kind of battery is in the bike? What you’re describing sounds like a weak or drained battery trying to start the bike. These bikes do better with AGM batteries vs standard wet cell.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm unsure of the battery. I can check that out when I get home. I did change the (I'm assuming) stock bulb for an led one. I just bought the bike but was able to ride it down the road. I forgot to mention the small leak was before the popping noise.
 

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You might just be blowing up fumes as your float bowls fill back up after being run dry. If you have a 'res' setting on your petcock, use that to refill the bowls, otherwise just crank it and live through a couple heart-attack inducing backfires until it starts. Mine backfires sometimes if the bike has sat for a bit and the fuel in the bowls has evaporated. Once it starts back up it runs normally.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I checked the fuses they all looked good. The battery was at 12.14 before I tried starting. I left the fuel in the on position accidentally but she still didn't fire even though it was left on. What does the voltage of a motorcycle battery have to be to start? Can I try jumping it with a car? I thought "RES" meant reserve as in the last bit of gas in the tank.
 

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12.14 is a very weak battery. A good battery should read about 12.8. That reading you have is about 50-60% capacity. Do you have a battery tender you can hook it up to to get a full charge on it? Then see how the bike starts. Since you said it fired up a few times before it started banging it may just be the battery.
 

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For quite a while after installing the AGM battery, it read 13.1v after being parked a couple of months.

I think the low cranking voltage causes the CDI to retard timing to the point of producing a backfire.

12.14v is dead.
 

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I'm sorry, I typed the wrong thing. I meant "PRI" for prime. "Res" is reserve, you're right.
"ON" requires a vacuum to be applied in order for the valve inside the petcock to open and allow fuel to run, so it could be "ON" and still have dry carbs if you ran out of gas then refilled.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm pretty sure I have a battery charger. Do motorcycle batteries charge the same as car batteries? I only have off, on, and res. How would I prime the float bowls?? I'll hook up the battery to the charger though!
 

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I'm pretty sure I have a battery charger. Do motorcycle batteries charge the same as car batteries? I only have off, on, and res. How would I prime the float bowls?? I'll hook up the battery to the charger though!
Depending on the charger you need to be careful. Some car battery chargers made to charge large batteries can cook a motorcycle battery if it’s left hooked up too long. Just monitor it. To get gas in the carbs just open it by switching it to “ON” and twist the throttle a little bit.
 

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That's an old school wet cell battery, not the best for this bike.

Good way to prime the carbs after sitting for a few days.... Crank the starter a few turns, pause a few seconds, crank, pause, until it begins to fire. The cranking creates vacuum to open the petcock, and the pause allows time for fuel to get into the carbs.

Bike batteries need .5 to 1.5 amps for a longer period. Most automotive chargers begin about 5 amps.

12v DC power packs, like for cordless phones, make good bike chargers, just have to monitor it. I got the cheap tender from Harbor Freight but I'm pretty sure it's dead after one winter.
 

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Any time the pistons are moving you're creating vacuum for the petcock. Like Spockster said, hitting the starter briefly, wait for the fuel to drain down through the tubes to the bowl, crank, wait, crank, wait. Doesn't take a lot of times, but be patient on giving the fuel time to get down to the bowls.
 

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I have the battery charging in the kitchen so I can watch it.. is this a good motorcycle battery? I'm completely new to this.
Like Mr Spockster stated, that is a wet cell battery. Not very good for these bikes. AGM type, or “maintenance free” batteries have much better cranking power. I’d be willing to bet that’s the reason you’re getting the shotgun blasts when trying to start it. For sanity you can jump the bike with a car (car ignition off) and see if it fires up.
 

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Yes, forgot to answer about the jump. Engine off for sure!

Don't think I would even bother with just a maintenance free battery, the AGM is well worth the extra money, and delivers as advertised.

Still need to start my bike this year, but my AGM is 7 years old this year. Bought it Nov. 2013. Best bike battery I've ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I charged it to around 14ish volts threw it back in and it started immediately after turning the fuel on and twisting the throttle 2 or 3 times. That makes me happy. Would it be wise to replace the battery now? Or can I get through this riding season on this battery?
 

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You could try it and see how it works for you. Make sure it's full of electrolyte, add only distilled water if needed, and try to get a full charge on it. Then check the resting voltage after it sits overnight.

The crank/pause starting takes about the same amount of time as endless cranking, but is easier on the battery and starter. Probably don't need it just sitting overnight, but after about three days plus you probably will.

Seems like the right carb dries out quicker, maybe because it's leaned over on the centerstand.

If the wet cell doesn't do the job, you won't regret getting an AGM.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It looked full and I heard a liquid splashing around in there. I'll make sure to prime it before starting it! All I gotta do now is figure out a small oil leak!
 
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