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Discussion Starter #1
I commute 98 miles a day, 5 days a week and I'm on call 24/7/365. I recently purchased a '94 VN750 w/576 miles on it. This bike is still in it's break in period.
The Story:
A guy bought it new for his wife in '94 - '95. She road it once around their yard and dropped it on the front lawn. This scared her so much she never used it again. The bike was pulled into the basement and sat there for 14 years. A neighbor bought the bike for his son. He then had some stuff professionally done to it - Acid and milked the tank, changed all the fluids and cleaned the carb's. This was all done last year. His son didn't want the bike so he put it up for sale. The bike is pretty near to show room condition, visually.
Within the first 50 miles I put on the bike it started overheating. I parked the bike. I tried it again a couple days later while I was trying to trouble shoot the problem. But found that there was no problem. I could not get it to overheat. I figured it must have been a stuck thermostat. Well I drove the 400 miles with no issues until once again it overheated. I was baffled. After a lot of messin' around with thermostats, temp sensors and fan switches; I found that I must have had a air bubble in the system. Fixed.
The day I fixed it I rode it for 30 mile and it worked excellently. Two days later I went to start it and had some difficulty. It started with the choke all the way on (normally it didn't need full choke to start) Once running the idle was low and a severe lack of power. Upon investigation I found that I had pinched a gas line and it was leaking. I cut the line back to the pin hole leak and still had plenty of line left to hook back up with. But no change in the bikes poor performance. I had had enough, I brought it to a reputable mechanic. He found that one of the slides and butterfly valve were not moving. He said it looked like it had water in the carb. and then it sat for quite sometime. That statement would make sense to me if it didn't run fine for 400 miles. I don't get it??
So, now you know my story. Can any experts here give me some advice on what I should look out for; or do to it as preventative maintenance? Spline lube, Marbles, ACCT - MCCT? Knowing this bikes year and history what should I do ASAP? What can wait 'til I get more mileage on it. and is there stuff that I don't really need to worry about at all? The bike now has 976 miles on it, help me make it last.
Thanks in advance,
Keyman
 

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Old Twistie Sticks Rider
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5,072 Posts
First welcome, and I'll get kicked for this... But don't make this bike your sole & dependable ride till it has proven itself and you are sure you have all the problem areas associated with long term storage fixed...
There are some very good fix'er up folks (experts) on here that can walk you through it, sorry but I am not one of them, but they will chime in and help you out...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
 

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carbon unit
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369 Posts
He found that one of the slides and butterfly valve were not moving. He said it looked like it had water in the carb. and then it sat for quite sometime. That statement would make sense to me if it didn't run fine for 400 miles. I don't get it??
I agree, that is hard to believe. However I do think your trouble is a being caused by improper fuel metering. You didn't mention tires, so I'll assume they've been replaced. Lube the splines first thing after you get it running right.
 

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new owner
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79 Posts
Have to agree with OLD DOG, anything tht has sat that long that uses gas and Oil wouldnt be trustworthy to me without some "testing". Many seals require oil to stay soft, and when stuff sits long periods seals fail to start with. Of course with Cell Phones and if you get stuck by side of road and wont lose your job over it, maybe your fine (on call as you mentined, maybenot?).

I think you just need to put some miles on it. You will sort out the kinks, with that low of milage you should have a winner once its back to used form.
 

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carbon unit
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369 Posts
I've given it some more thought. If he said that the vacuum piston/diaphragm assembly wasn't moving when the throttle butterfly opens; then I would understand.
You might want to look at getting the carbs cleaned and think about replacing the vacuum diaphragms. One step at a time. Get it running well
 

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Registered
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just my $0.02: pull the carbs and ship them to carbworx. while you're waiting to get 'em back, grab a cold one and nose about in the verses. lots of tips there for walkin' around knowledge:smiley_th
 

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Rogue Warrior
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130 Posts
just my $0.02: pull the carbs and ship them to carbworx. while you're waiting to get 'em back, grab a cold one and nose about in the verses. lots of tips there for walkin' around knowledge:smiley_th
Great advice. While waiting for the carbs... Spline Lube.
 

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Registered
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys.
The mechanic is cleaning the carbs and replacing the vacuum diaphragms. I should have the bike back today or tomorrow. Are all years of this model effected by the spline lube issue?
 

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Premium Member
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4,778 Posts
Thanks guys.
The mechanic is cleaning the carbs and replacing the vacuum diaphragms. I should have the bike back today or tomorrow. Are all years of this model effected by the spline lube issue?
Yes. I've seen many members with various model years say their splines were dry. I believe Dianna said it wasn't so much that the splines weren't lubed at all, they just used the wrong grease; ergo the "red dust" most folks encounter on their dry splines isn't rust but residue of the grease that was used. So check your splines soon and have some high moly grease and #17 O-ring on hand when you do so you can relube them and be worry free for another 10,000 miles.
 

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Super Moderator
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11,966 Posts
Thanks guys.
The mechanic is cleaning the carbs and replacing the vacuum diaphragms. I should have the bike back today or tomorrow. Are all years of this model effected by the spline lube issue?
To be honest here, this is an issue with ALL shaft drive bikes, regardless of model or maker. Yamahas, Suzukis, Honda's etc ...... all have the same basic design for their shaft drive bikes and require the "splines" to be lubed.

As mentioned it is more about using the right type of grease and checking them periodicly.

Short story...My FJR has a shaft drive, and when I took it in for its initial 600 mile check up I asked them to check to see that the splines were lubed properly.

The wrench said they should be....and to do so I would have to pay for the labor to remove the wheel for him to check it out.

I counterd with this proposal...If the splines are in fact lubed properly with some kind of Moly grease, I will pay the labor cost. BUT, if he finds that they are not lubed correctly, then it is a warrenty issue and Yamaha should pay for the service. He agreed, and when I came to pick up my bike there was no charge for the spline lube/labor on my bill.

The tech said the splines did have a thin layer of what looked like lithium grease on them, but were "not lubed correctly"...so he did not charge me. (He of course did lube them with the proper grease)

So, anyone who owns a shaft drive bike, brand new or used, should check the splines if not actually aware of their condition.


KM
 
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