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Discussion Starter #1
OK.. before you start tuning up on the paranoia question...After all i have done with the bike over the past week or so.. VH Cruzers, MCCTs. I seem to have less power now. Isn't one of the plusses of custom pipes supposed to be better performance?? Kinda back to my 'general sound' post.. I have no frame of reference and I don't know what to go on. Ever since the pipes install, I think there is less torque. I was out today and got on a nice open back road on could not get to 100mph. Right after I got the bike, I opened up on the freeway at got to 95 in 4th. I got to almost 105 another time in 5th. That was with the stock exhaust and ACCTs. Admittedly, I believe I have moved up the windshield, so there is more drag, but the pull in 2nd and 3rd doesn't seem to be there. Could I have done something wrong?? In installing the MCCTs, I did notice that to get the clack away, I did have to turn in the screws to the point that it was causing a slower idle speed. I dont know.. thats why I am askng the question. How do you learn unless you ask
 

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Here's my opinion Dave,
Even a perfectly performing ACCT isn't going to get ALL the clack out of our engines. I think the design lends itself to a minor bit of sound even when tuned perfectly. I could be wrong, but I bet on an average, there's merit.
I do not think the installation of MCCT's should affect the idle speed. Sure, you're not going to have an engine that purrs noislessly, but I think you might be robbing torque from the wheels if you're tightening the MCCT's to the point of affecting the idle speed. Not to mention unneccessary additional wear.

Properly adjusted is somewhere just past thumb screw tight, I think (warmed up, of course).

My2cents.

~~C8>
 

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I remember reading another post not too long ago regarding exhaust changes actually decreasing the torque. One was on removing the baffles, the other taked about aftermarket pipes. Somewhat counterintuitive to the "auto" way of thinking. I guess there really is a point of "loss of return". The new pipes may sound better, but performance actually degrades due to the decrease in back pressure.

I am also seriously considering the MCCT conversion as I have a little clatter. I will try the Garmin Trick first though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
kinda wondered about the back pressure issue. I know most everyone that has installed these says they did not have to re-jet. Of course, VH says its best if you do. Others have said adding KN Air filters with it has helped. Just trying to touch all the bases
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i'll check the adjustment on those again tomorrow.. i may have them too tight
 

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I am also seriously considering the MCCT conversion as I have a little clatter. I will try the Garmin Trick first though.
I think you'd better try the "Grambo" Trick, unless you really don't know where you're going...:wow:
 

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Less back pressure, less torque. All you gain with V+H Cruisers is more noise ( maybe better looking )
 

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Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
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Clack

Here's my opinion Dave,
Even a perfectly performing ACCT isn't going to get ALL the clack out of our engines. I think the design lends itself to a minor bit of sound even when tuned perfectly. I could be wrong, but I bet on an average, there's merit.
I do not think the installation of MCCT's should affect the idle speed. Sure, you're not going to have an engine that purrs noislessly, but I think you might be robbing torque from the wheels if you're tightening the MCCT's to the point of affecting the idle speed. Not to mention unneccessary additional wear.

Properly adjusted is somewhere just past thumb screw tight, I think (warmed up, of course).

My2cents.

~~C8>

The MCCT should not be torqued down enough to affect the idle. This will cause a lot of guide and bearing wear, and will parasitically suck some of your power-- it may also affect your valve timing a little. I have the same problem with mine- I believe it it be stretched cam chains AND worn chain guides. At least one of my chains stretched at 5,000 miles. I tightened mine finger tight and then another 1/8 turn with a wrench and with the engine hot. After another 35,000 miles it still does clack a little from time to time. I can't get rid of the clack totally no matter how tight I make the MCCTs. One thing to try is to put a spacer on the upper guide spring- it's under the access cap with the large hex on it, just above the CCT. I put a couple of washers under the spring, but in my case it didn't affect the clacking. So with 40,000 miles now, it doesn't seem like my problem is getting worse, and although I am worried about damaging the cam sprockets, I'm not worried enough to replace cam chains and guides-- too much dang work.
 
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