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Discussion Starter #1
I know there is lots of info on the subject and I also have the manual but just want to confirm something. Do I need to remove the cluch cover on the right side of the engine to remove the left balancer shaft bolt?
I'm in the process of replacing my failled stator and bought new balance dampers (all 6). I still have to remove the flywheel so I will need to go get a puller.

There is a lots on the subject but still vague on how to remove the flywheel and the damper gear. I even watched the videos but no puller is used.

I will figure it out but anything help.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also do I need to verify of replace anything on the right side ? I seen some post on cluch basket mod? My bike is a 2006 with 14000 miles and a failled stator. The engine is out and I will also make the ear shave mods and fix the ACCTs. The season is over and I have all winter ahead of me.
 

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The balancer gear has a left-hand threaded bolt, so it loosens the opposite direction, this bolt also gets Loctite on assembly. Don't need to open up the right side, but you will need to block the gears from turning. Some people stuff a rag in the damper/rotor gears, I used a penny, the soft copper/zinc will bend, but won't damage the gear teeth.

The large post on the damper weight fits into the the small hole on damper gear, then you align the marks on the damper/rotor. Did mine twice because I installed the large post into the large hole, that's wrong and the bike shook so bad I couldn't see the handgrips and it hopped across the floor on the centerstand.

The clutch basket mod is for coffee-grinder syndrome, but mine cleared up after running seafoam in the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply, I read about the penny or a rag so I will do that and yes I will be careful about re-installing it properly. How about removal of the flywheel? And the big bolt in the center? I asume that the big bolt need to be removed and then pry the flywheel off with a puller?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As for Seafoam, I never heard about running it in oil. I always used Seafoam with fuel in my small engine equipement.
 

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As for Seafoam, I never heard about running it in oil. I always used Seafoam with fuel in my small engine equipement.
Dosage for use in oil is on the can, I ran it 300 miles before an oil change.

How about removal of the flywheel? And the big bolt in the center? I asume that the big bolt need to be removed and then pry the flywheel off with a puller?
The puller is just a bolt, same threads as the rotor (flywheel) bolt, but longer. The puller bolt gets threaded into the rotor until it bottoms against the crankshaft and pushes the rotor off.

The thread size is listed here somewhere, M18 x (something), or just look up a puller for this bike and the thread size is usually listed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I should be good now and the youTube video states a 18mm x 1.5mm bolt but I wasn't sure. I will get a longer bolt and try it out. So only the damper on the left side, nothing to replace on the right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How do I remove the original rotor bolt? Can I just use an impact wrench? Sorry for all these newby question, I just want to get it right.
 

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I used an impact & just turned my pressure down to limit the impacts effect.
Another trick for blocking the gears is to use a 1/4" ratchet extension. Fitting it into the tooth of the gear. It nicely wedges in there. Move it to the other side for tightening.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your help is really appreciated. I will try to have this done this weekend. I want to put the engine back together before it gets to cold to work in my shed. (Winter is coming here in Nova Scotia, Canada!)
I still have lots of work/modifications to do but with the help of this forum and the service manual I should be good to ride next spring.

I'm also changing the look completely by replacing the rear fender with one of a 900 Custom Vulcan and new handlebars. I will post pics if I manage to get everything done.
 

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Nothing needs to come off on the right side. I also used a penny to lock the gears. You will also need a torque wrench that works in reverse to install the balancer gear bolt. Not all of them do. The rotor removal tool is available from Motion Pro for a few dollars. Because I never intend to do this job again, I used red loc-tite on both the crankshaft and balancer gear bolts. Also make sure the little marks on the rotor and balancer gear line up perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think that I understand everything so far but still need to remove that rotor. I tried a puller but it doesn't work for this application since the rotor is curved on the back and the puller doesn't grip. I will look into the one suggested from Motion Pro. A rag wedge in the middle and the impact worked really good to remove the bolts. All I need it to remove the rotor and I can't understand how it works with a longer bolt and a strap wrench from the video, although it seems easy?

I have the new damper and just need to get some locktite. A friend of mine has a torque wrench which works in reverse so I will borrow his.

As for the gaskets, when I put everything back together should I had some sealant plus the gasket? It's probably a good idea to prevent leaks.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After some time on Google and reading other post, I am making it harder than it should be. It seems that all I need it that longer bolt (with same thread, 18mm x 1.5) and I would screw it in until the rotor pops off? seems easy..... Time to go and try to find a bolt. I guess the strap wrench in the video is only to prevent the gear from moving, the penny or rag does the same.
 

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Look up the bolt on ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I finally found a bolt today at a local fastener depot (3rd place as the first 2 didn't stock those sizes) and paid 9$ for one bolt! (harden steel and looks the same as the tool online at pro-motion) I will try tomorrow.
 

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You're gonna be po'd at how little pressure it takes to pop the rotor off, but you'd have a tough time without the bolt. Just thread it in and try to tighten it, the rotor pushes right off, be sure to catch it.

Maybe just a small amount of sealer on one side of that gasket for some tack, but a bigger bead of silicone will just squish out into the case. Technically that gasket can be installed dry.

I finally found a bolt today at a local fastener depot (3rd place as the first 2 didn't stock those sizes) and paid 9$ for one bolt! (harden steel and looks the same as the tool online at pro-motion) I will try tomorrow.
Not a bad price for a puller and you didn't have to order it.

Paid about $12 for a Motion Pro ordered from my Kawi dealer, since I was waiting on parts.

I could order a full box from a local Fastener and Supply store for $20, but could probably never get rid of them, still have 8 chrome coolant tank caps that never sold . :doh:
 

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Bet if a thick enough washer was placed in the rotor hole, the stock bolt would push it loose! :wink2:

Why didn't I think of that two years ago?
 

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I don't remember where I got my puller, but it was about the same price. May seem expensive for one bolt, but it works perfectly, and causes no damage. You can do some serious damage trying to use a jaw type puller or a pry bar. I will not likely ever use that bolt again, but compared to the parts and labor for the whole job, I thought the cost was pretty insignificant. Just the cost of the 2 graphite gaskets that go between the header pipes and the goats belly (mine were bad) cost 3 times as much.
 

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Be sure to catch the woodruff key when you remove the rotor. With out it, your screwed.
In case your not familiar with what that is, it's a small half circle wedge of metal that keeps the rotor from free spinning on the shaft.
 
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