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Discussion Starter #1
Just passing this on, since I got one....

Two sellers on Ebay with LED voltmeters, priced $18.95 and $19.95 w/free shipping. Also selling with the Make Offer option.

I'll give you a hint, I offered $12 and that was turned down. I offered $15 and it was accepted. Should be delivered today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141029860121?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231020025085?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Off to see where everyone has been connecting their voltmeter.
 

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just mounted the first one on my sons 750, he entertains offers, cool little unit, works great Just made a little polished bracket to attach it between the gauges and hooked into the coil relay mod to the front coil so If something happened and it dint light up would know there was a power issue, My coil relay mod runs off the auxilirary fuse in the main fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Looks accurate so far, as near as you can tell, comparing a digital VOM to a string of LEDs. Above 13v, the three lights past 13 are lit. At 12.96v, the light directly over the '1' in 13 is lit.

I've left it all hooked up and on to see what it's reading when I'm done with dinner.

There's a slit in the adhesive backing, and a slot at the bottom of the case, so you can route the wires out the bottom, instead of straight out the back the way they ship it.

I might have asked for a silver one if I'd known they had them before I ordered, this one is black, but good enough.

Will update if there's any change in the accuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
KC, I triple checked it as much as possible. I'll have to say it's pretty accurate as far as each light corresponding to a given voltage.

It was odd that when connected to the front running lights, the voltage was lower, but the highest blue light (15v) would blink. Voltage was higher at the battery terminals, and I haven't seen the blue light yet.

It's connected to the battery with the ground going through a hidden toggle switch. To turn it on, I stick my finger through the gap between the seat and right side cover to flip the switch.

I used the sticky foam back to mount the meter on the handle bar clamp, we'll see how sticky it really is. It's over the Kawasaki lettering so it may come loose.

Now I can monitor the battery as I ride and not get stuck in BFE, hopefully. I can also check the battery just by flicking a switch.

Finally got around to checking AC volts on the new TPE stator. 80v cold and 70v warm at 3000rpm.

Also had to weld the mount bracket for the tach, the bolt hole broke right off the end where the nut goes. May have been cracked in the wreck, since the chrome cup was rashed in one spot. No more wobbly tach.
 

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Yeah, like being able to see whats goin on, Kind of another reason I wirerd it to the coil mod, its direct power from the battery and if I lose tach signal and the bike wont start know where the problem is. no switch needed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's true art, I checked the coil but it was the same voltage as the running lights. Maybe only .5 to 1v difference, but a difference. I haven't done any coil or pickup mods yet.

I may go back and change it some time. I could have run the wires under the bar clamp instead of straight down and under the tank. Should be fine for now.

There was a larger wire in the headlight bucket that had the same voltage as the battery, but if I recall, it was hot all the time. Someone had wired into the running lights before, as there was already a pair coming off the right side running light.
 

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Nice to know it is accurate...I definately would have gone with the chrome one myself...but then again I am a chrome junkie!

I have a single LED on the guage cluster (see my albums) that I installed that simply changes color or flashes at certain voltages.....so it isn't a "voltmeter" like that one, but it does tell me what is going on. I was able to adjust the trigger levels to correspond to the battery voltage even though I have mine hooked up to the front running lights. It is always on when the ignition is on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The main reason I didn't go with a colored monitor light like yours, I can't see the difference in red or green, especially on a light that small. All I see on this meter is a string of yellow and one blue light, but it's laid out so I can tell what's what.

Traffic lights aren't a problem unless it's a single turn arrow that changes color, then I have to get creative.

Thought I might put that toggle switch in the dash, but it doesn't look like there's enough room, didn't take the dash all the way off to look. It's good where it is.
 

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If you look at my photos to see where I mounted the LED....there was barely enough room to mount that....not sure a switch would have fit.
Being color blind would be an issue.
It flashes green when charging, solid green when battery is above 12.5V, and turns red when below 12.5V.

It works for me...and was a cheap alternative that I am happy with, but it still is nice to have an actual voltage meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lol, yep, always an issue. Colors on wiring, car paint, you name it. Many people think we see in shades of black and white, not really, at least I don't. I could pick out a red car in a black and white tv show.

I've got some items with red/green lights like that, completely useless except to know it's hooked up and doing .. something.

I was planning to countersink some single LEDs into the upper sides of the tail ramp on my trailer, so I can see where it is at night. It's not really long enough to see any of the side markers in the mirrors.
 
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