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I mounted it on the side just behind the side cover. I had previously moved the regulator there to escape the heat from the GB and it just seemed easier.
 

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Here's another thread with a pic of the relocated RR.

There's no doubt a lot of RRs from other bikes that will work and some of those are MOSFET. This thread mentioned using one from a Ninja, and I've seen the Yamaha Rhino mentioned elsewhere.

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks for the pics and links to some older threads. The way I'm leaning now is to mount my new R/R under the side cover, possibly with velcro if it'll hold fast or following Spockster's method of using a template to make a metal mounting plate. I also got looking at my battery box more closely today and saw some corrosion so if I start trying to tackle that, I might just pull it out and mount the new R/R in place of the old one.

Meanwhile, reading through those old threads has left me with a couple of curiosity questions. One pertains to something I asked earlier in this thread: Why didn't Kawasaki connect the stator wires going up the left side of the JB to the R/R instead of going up the frame and then back down the right side? Does it have to do with what some have referred to as the "headlight wire to the JB"? Where is that tapped in?

Next, I'm still left wondering if my new LED headlight did in fact have something to do with the failure of my R/R. Reading through the old threads, I hear mentions of how the R/R is tasked with disposing of unused voltage and how it generates heat in the process. If my new headlight uses only a fraction of the voltage of a big consumer (the stock halogen), then aren't I taxing the crap out of my R/R? In other words, is it really a coincidence that I get this new headlight and now need a R/R? If not, it seems like this might be a reasonable point of caution for anyone considering an LED swap.

At the same time, it's probably fair to say that my R/R was on its way out anyway. In the course of reading through the older posts, i actually came across one of mine in which I mentioned "flickering" lights; lights that would suddenly get brighter as if flicking some switch. (Guess my memory is doing some flickering of its own as I'd forgotten all about that post!)
 

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I forget the layout on the wires, but I do recall cutting and terminating the headlight trigger to the JB. It's just a branch off one (yellow) stator wire that then runs into the JB. It was near the left rear corner of the battery box, but accessed behind the left side cover, sort of near the top right of the JB as well.

Using the correct amount of power has been discussed a lot, but there's no definitive answer so far. I suppose an experiment might be installing the halogen bulb and seeing how the charge voltage reacts. It looks like the RR is going "full field", and would probably continue to do that, but the peak voltage might be lower with the halogen in place. It's probably going to over charge the battery no matter what.

Just think, without the voltmeter on the dash, you might not have caught the problem until something was cooked. When I bought my bike, both the stator and RR were shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Just think, without the voltmeter on the dash, you might not have caught the problem until something was cooked. When I bought my bike, both the stator and RR were shot.
Good point, and that was your suggestion as I recall!

So in doing some more reading, I see that the primary benefit of the Blue-wire and Two-wire mods is to bypass the relays in the JB which are failure-prone. But what does removing the blue wire do compared to removing the yellow wire from the stator (as both are headlight-related)? And if I don't need the yellow wire anymore, what's to stop me from wiring my new Mofset from the yellow wires as they head up the frame from the stator and pass by the left side of the JB? I'd save the resistance of a couple feet of wire; wire that's gotten cooked to well-done near the RR terminals.

Also a question about the Two-wire mod: Does that just eliminate the safety relay for the neutral switch or does it also bypass the kickstand switch? That kickstand switch has saved my ass a couple of times, so I'd be reluctant to bypass that feature.
 

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Well now that you mentioned it, if you rewire for a MOSFET, there's not much need to cut the stator to headlight trigger wire. It will already be dead.

That's one good thing about the MOSFET rewire, it eliminates all the factory wiring that's involved.

The Blue Wire mod takes the headlight relay out of play and stops any voltage reaching it.

If my memory is correct, the Two Wire mod will disable the neutral switch, but not the side stand. Would need to review the mod thread or check my bike to verify. The mod disables the start relay in the JB, which can fail, like mine did.

The last solid state relay in the JB is the fan relay. My plan is to rewire in a $5 universal relay for the fan, then all mine will be dealt with.

There's pics around with those JB relays all melted and burned, and the circuit board looks like it was hit by lightning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well now that you mentioned it, if you rewire for a MOSFET, there's not much need to cut the stator to headlight trigger wire. It will already be dead.
How will it become dead? Maybe that will become clearer to me when I actually install the MOFSET but I've viewed the page you linked on the roadstercycle site and I see that terminal B,M, and G wires are eliminated but the three stator wires remain intact. If the three yellow wires are left intact and one feeds into the JB, won't it still be doing something?
 

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The mount my Mosfet is on was the one I made for my stock regulator when I moved it out from under the battery. There is a lot of heat generated above the goats belly and that has been discussed as one reason they fail (which may also contribute to stator failure). I switched to a Mosfet to hopefully save my stator. The wire mods do not disable the the side stand nanny switch, but that is easily bypassed. Personally, I do not like the nanny switches and this is the first bike I have owned with them. (I actually have disabled the neutral safety switches of several of my cages so they can be started without being in park or having a foot of the brake.) If anyone else is driving one of my vehicles it is because they stole it.

There is a lot of information regarding why stator and/or R/R fails occur on these bikes. Unfortunately I do not recall any absolutely definitive solution. Some have completely rewired every aspect and elminated viturally everything Kawasaki used, including the junction box. I do not recall any of them saying how their journey ended. Then again some bikes get tens of thousands of miles on them with no problems. The luck of the draw I guess. Hopefully the benefit of going LED also included better lighting to see with so I would go with the chance being a good thing. I do not recall any post saying don't go LED because it doesn't use enuht juice. If you are concerned, add a light bar for even better night lighting.
 
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The 3 stator wires go to the Mosfet. Then two wires go to the battery. None go to the JB. for the headlight.
 
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How will it become dead? Maybe that will become clearer to me when I actually install the MOFSET but I've viewed the page you linked on the roadstercycle site and I see that terminal B,M, and G wires are eliminated but the three stator wires remain intact. If the three yellow wires are left intact and one feeds into the JB, won't it still be doing something?
No, the three stator wires should run directly to the new RR. In that case the trigger to the headlight relay won't get power.

But, if you tie into the old stator leads off the old RR, the trigger would probably still be powered.
 

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How will it become dead? Maybe that will become clearer to me when I actually install the MOFSET but I've viewed the page you linked on the roadstercycle site and I see that terminal B,M, and G wires are eliminated but the three stator wires remain intact. If the three yellow wires are left intact and one feeds into the JB, won't it still be doing something?

When you wire in the new R/R, the 3 stator wires go straight in, you’re eliminating the stock connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
So I took the battery box out, cleaned it up, and mummified it in frame paint. Meanwhile, it looks like I'll be getting the MOFSET later in the week, which is fine but a bit of a bummer for these next few days of awesome riding weather predicted here. (And I'm on vaca from work too!). This raises a couple of questions:

Have some of you mounted the MOFSET to the bottom of the battery box where the orig RR goes? If so, did you have to make a new plate for it? It looks from the dimensions diagrams that the bolt pattern on the FH020AA is a tad wider than the orig.

I also notice on the R side of the battery box that the RLU uses the same bolt pattern. Since I've removed the RLU, couldn't I also use that spot (IF the FH020AA bolt pattern is close enough)?

Lastly what happens if I want to go for a ride before my new unit arrives? Seeing's how I've got a spiffy new AGM, would the bike run okay without the R/R? I've also got a portable lithium jump pack I could bring along if all I need is the peace of mind of being able to start the bike. OR alternatively, would I be better off to reconnect the old R/R even at the risk of it blowing some bulbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
As an aside, has anyone ever hooked anything up to the "electrical accessory" wires underneath that L side cover? Did Kawasaki have something in mind when they included those?
 

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They RR I installed was larger than stock, so I went with relocate right off the bat.

You can put it anywhere as long as it's plugged in. It could dangle in air and still work. It could even warm your buns in your back pocket. :) I didn't look very close at the right side, I knew it had always been done on the left side in various ways.

Even Velcro on the inside of a side cover should work, you can unplug it when you remove the cover.

If I was going to try riding it right now, I'd put the halogen back in, then see what the voltage is doing. Prolonged high voltage is going to cook things, battery, lights, CDI, JB... Etc.

If the voltage drops but could stand a bit more, find something to draw more power. Grounding the fan switch will force the fan to run. Stick another halogen light or two somewhere?

If you can't get the voltage down, I'd just wait and prepare for the install. Not a lot of fun on vacation though, bummer.

People do use the accessory plugs for lights and stereos, etc.

Running the AGM down too many times will be bad for it.
 

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Agree with what spockster says here, as much as it sucks I don’t think I’d ride knowing I had a part that could fail and f—k up other (expensive) stuff. The high voltage and flickering you’re seeing are just warning signs. I have LED everything except the gauges, my voltage never goes above 14.7 with a new Kawasaki stator and OEM R/R

I don’t think I’ve heard/read anyone putting the MOSFET r/r in the stock spot, especially if you still have the goats belly in place. I too have removed the RLU so I’m going to check that option out when I finally get a MOSFET. If that fits then that’s a great idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ok, thanks guys. I value your opinions - AND my bike - so I'll just stay put for now. Seems there's always plenty to do around the house anyway. Spent most of today fixing a busted bogie wheel on the zero-turn - not something I'd been planning to do, but you know how things go!
 

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I just pulled my old RLU out of the drawer and compared it to both my old R/R(s). You are right about the bolt pattern. They are the same. The Mosfet I used had the same bolt pattern basically also. It was however larger than the stock R/R and the replacement I put on my bike after I bought it. I relocated it originally as one of the suggestions in the Verses to get it away from the heat under the battery and above the goats belly.

Both R/R I used had the bolt holes "slotted" whereas the RLU does not. That may cause a problem with fitment. Especially with the solenoid right there. I don't remember how much room there is right now.

Regarding the accessory wires I was going to tap into one of those for my volt meter but if I recall correctly they ae hot all the time. I wanted a key on power source for my meter so chose to not use one of those. I believe I have seen one used as a 12 volt source for other accessories like a power charger or something similar though. No idea why they were there to begin with.
 
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That’s correct, the accessory leads are always hot. I use the front pair for driving lights and a voltmeter. I installed a small switch on the handlebar to kill it. I could’ve just installed a relay but the switch has been working fine for a couple years now. There’s about a .2 to .3 voltage drop to the front pair so I know to factor that in on when checking the meter
 

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You all turn a simple issue into something difficult 🙄.
1. Mount the R/R where it can get air flow. Period. That's why it has cooling fins, it's a heat sink.
2. Cut out the yellow stator wire connectors and hard wire them. This eliminates resistance lowering the wire temps.
3. Use a quality AGM battery
4. Clean all ground points!
5. Why buy a MOSFET that needs modifications? This one is plug'n play:
Mosfet

Light Font Line Automotive lighting Cable
 
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