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Discussion Starter #21

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I believe we are talking about two different o-rings. I installed the new 92055, that is behind the selector (fits in the grove on the back side) that came with the kit. It was the 607 o-ring that I do NOT have, nor did I see it when I disassembled the petcock. Unless we are talking about the same thing. The 607 looks like it is on the back side of the housing, facing the engine. Please correct me if I am wrong. I love teachable moments.
670 is the one that came already installed on my new diaphragm. It goes on the metal 'piston' in the center.

The top of the petcock where it meets the tank, gets an o-ring in the shape of an open oval, or the oval with two bars across it.

 

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Here’s a link

https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/51023-1392

Expensive, yeah a little. But I bet it won’t leak. I’d rather keep the highly flammable gas in the bike.
That's cheaper than ebay, actually! If I can't get my old one to work, I will get this. I got douched with gas while pushing the bike home last night. Not fun.
That site has been the cheapest for most OEM stuff I’ve found. Searching EBay makes me tired sometimes lol. Too much, never sure of quality. I’m sure many swear by it but I’ve gotten some crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I did not have that square gasket


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I did not have that square gasket


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So you're missing the 670 o-ring and the gasket? That's a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)

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Are you able to determine where it's leaking from?

The pic in that listing looks like there's another gasket under the diaphragm, but they don't give a parts list in the ad.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I am reaching out to the seller. So the diaphragm has two pieces to it. My original concern was I had installed it backwards on the plastic piece. Seeing the two videos, it appears I had installed it correctly. My reasoning for thinking I installed it backwards, is that fuel is flowing unrestricted from the petcock, regardless of the position of the selector.


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I was under the impression it was leaking onto the ground. The post about 5 blocks/3 blocks made me think this.

The picture I posted earlier, was to show the oval ring with the bars. It's just a google pic, the actual kit may be for a different bike.

According to the diagram in post #14, there's no gasket.
 

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Yep that's expensive. But they also have all the parts necessary to rebuild the old petcock for a lot less. None of the other places I looked had all of them. I think I'll go ahead and order all of the rebuild parts. Ethanol gas tends to destroy the rubber parts over time. I think it is best to not move the petcock. I know how far a Vulcan 750 will go on a tank of gas. I'll jut put in on ON and leave it there. Seems like turning the petcock after ethanol has softened the rubber could damage it.

The fuel gauge stays on full for a long time (about 60 miles, then starts dropping. When it reaches the halfway point, it starts dropping like a rock. I would not go much past 100 miles before filling up the gas tank. I have been places where I had to carry an extra gallon in the saddlebags.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
I was under the impression it was leaking onto the ground. The post about 5 blocks/3 blocks made me think this.



The picture I posted earlier, was to show the oval ring with the bars. It's just a google pic, the actual kit may be for a different bike.



According to the diagram in post #14, there's no gasket.


Yes, the carbs get so full they leak into the ground. It appeared to be leaking out of the vacuum ports. The petcock flows fuel freely as well. I hope this makes sense. I just got home, so I will take photos of the disassembly


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Yes, the carbs get so full they leak into the ground. It appeared to be leaking out of the vacuum ports. The petcock flows fuel freely as well. I hope this makes sense. I just got home, so I will take photos of the disassembly


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The carb floats are stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
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Discussion Starter #34
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This part makes me nervous
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The carb floats should stop fuel flow once the bowls are full. This is a problem regardless of the petcock operation. The right side carb also gushed fuel from the vac port?

If it's feeding gas through the petcock vac port, that's a problem. If the petcock flows with no vacuum, both vac ports on carb/petcock can be capped off. I'm not sure if this is happening or not, I thought you previously said it was when you had the tank off.

Not sure why the petcock won't work, but I posted previously, someone may have drilled it open. I don't have anything to show if there's extra holes in yours or not. It looks like you assembled it according to the diagram, and it really can't go together backwards.

Just blowing through a fuel port on the petcock, and pushing the piston into the 'well' with your finger... Can you stop airflow through the fuel port this way? Can you tell if the piston reaches the bottom of the 'well'?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The petcock flows with no vacuum. With it assembled, I can blow air straight through, regardless of the selector position. I will take it back apart and see if the diaphragm is set deep enough. I did not clean the floats when I cleaned the carbs two weeks ago, because I didn’t have new cotterpins. Do you just throw them away when cleaning? How do you tell it the floats are bad, versus able to clean?


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Discussion Starter #37
It appears that adjusting the selector does not change anything inside of the petcock.
On:

Reserve:

Prime:

I can see the inside move, but nothing stops air from blowing through in any position, even with the diaphragm installed


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You can reuse those cotter pins. Only way a float goes bad is when it leaks and fills up with gas. You can shake the float to see if there's gas in it.

The float valve/needle valve is probably just stuck or has a chunk of crud holding it open. Sometimes tapping the sides of the carb can free it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Thanks. I am pulling them apart now. I guess I will throw in the 42/142 jets while I’m here. How do you feel about the shims too? I have a stock exhaust for now, but will update shortly. Here’s the first float. Seems okay. The black plastic fuel things are pretty rough. Do they just pull off to replace?



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Okay I think this is a stuck float: https://vimeo.com/344460199
Is this repairable with a new float, cleaning or a kit? Sorry, this is my first time getting this down and dirty with a carb
 

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First pic - Is that a hole in the float?

Second carb in the video - Can see the float valve hanging up, sticking.

Fuel inlets just press in, but will probably break off in the holes when you try to take them out. If they aren't leaking, don't fix them.

If the floats and float valves are ok, then just a good cleaning, inside too. The rubber tips on the float valves need to be intact, and where they seat needs to be clean and smooth.
 
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