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Discussion Starter #1
After trying to get the 700 running with both pumps not just the rear, I pulled one of the front plugs, it was wet and didn't look like it had fired. Checked all 4 plugs, I have spark, rotated coils and plugs to assure it isn't electrical, Checked the pickup coils (readings within 5 ohms). I have fuel the plug is wet. I figgured I would do a compression test. Compression I got was 140 psi back and 112 psi front. At this point I figured I had some valves or rings that were bad. On the suggestion from a local machine shop I had a leakdown test done to the bike. The results were...
The cylinder was charged up to 80 psi and it maintained 80 psi. This determined that the valves were closing as they were supposed to and the rings were holding also. Compression OK, Electrical OK, Has fuel. Now what??
The guys I had over were scratching thier heads and thinking that there was something that was holding the jets open and flooding the front so much that it wouldn't allow it to fire. I think I'm going to get a carb rebuild kit unless someone can think of something else.
 

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I think I'm going to get a carb rebuild kit unless someone can think of something else.
Let me try to save you a bunch of time and aggravation. There are no carb kits for these carbs, you have to itemize and buy each part you want individually.

All the other carb kits out there, it seems really lame there isn't one for Vulcan carbs, but it's the truth.

That's how I found this forum....during a three day exhaustive search for a "kit".

You really gotta wonder why nobody has put one together yet. Our Vulcan's are not the only vehicles using these make/size carbs.

Also, you can save a decent amount of money by buying the stuff from Ron Ayers, but you WILL wait about 2 weeks for the stuff to arrive. Bike Bandit is a little more pricey, but several more days quicker too.

Good luck. :)
 

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Doug is right; no rebuild kits. You'll need to replace the old O-rings for sure when putting it back together, but everything else is so expensive that you might as well wait until you get her open and see what's bad and what's not. I remember the small idle diaphragm was like $28, but I only needed one. If it does have to do with the float assembly, it may just need a good cleaning. When you take S&H into account, my local dealership is just about the same price as Ron Ayers or Bike Bandit and gets them here in 3-5 days.
 

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Now what
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Have you tried this yet? After starting the bike you close the petcock and let the bike run out of gas. Open the valve, let the bowl refill, start it up and repeat. This might flush any gunk out that's holding the needle valve open. It's free, fast and easy-- and it may work. Put a healthy dose of Seafoam in the tank before you get going. Even if the Burp doesn't give immediate results, the Seafoam can work wonders if parts are left to soak in it over night. Others have shot carb cleaner up through the drain valves with some success. Just something else to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crud, no rebuild kits :(
I haven't tried to run the bowls dry, I have drained them each time I remove them for cleaning but I do have about 4 oz of Seafoam in the tank now and it has been run thru the carbs some. I have the carbs out again and have cleaned them for the third time.
I am at a loss as far as what the problem could be. I have spark at all four plugs, I have compression, and the plug is wet with fuel. I'm only going after a rebuild because I don't know what else to do except for possibly doing the Wired George coil mod to see if that will make a difference.
 
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