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Glenn C.
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1,628 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I recently did the KM floorboard mod, thanks Knifemaker. But i had some issues i would like to discuss and see others who put on KM floorboards had the same issues.

So i drew up and copied KM's prints. Had my machine shop whip them out, then sent off to be black andodized. The look great.

I took off the old rubber on the pegs, and of course the holes are clearance holes. I ran a 1/4 tap thru them, and bolted them on. The rear ones went on fine, but the front ones didn't. As for tapping the holes, there wasn't enough there to get enough thread engagement, so they basically stripped out!!
Did anyone else have this issue???

So my options were these:
A. Drill the holes bigger and tap them for a 5/16, and then re-drill and countersink the boards to match.

This wouldn't be hard to do, but... the depth of the material would only get maybe 2-3 threads in, and wouldnt be very strong.

B. Put 1/4 locknuts on the bottom of the pegs to tighten and give plenty of support/strength. But the issue here was on the bottom of the pegs, the holes are counterbored for the original hex bolt/screw. Yes a 1/4 locknut would fit in the counterbore, but you can't get a wrench or socket on it to tighten it.
Luckily for me, i have great access to a machine shop. I took of the front pegs, and had my bud Terry who works on a mill, measure the counterbore holes, they were about 9/16" hole. I told him i wanted it bigger to fit this nut and socket in there, and he said no problem, and he opened up the counterbore to a 3/4 size. He did it on his lunchbreak of course, so i got it done for free, and took him all of 5 minutes to do. So I got the pegs back on, put the boards on and got them tightened with the nut and socket, problem solved!

C. Another option would be to have the nut tackwelded on, in place. If you don't have access to a mill to do option B, this would be a good option.


Anyway, i just wanted to provide some info on my experience and my mod of the KM boards. So far, i love riding with them, wish i would have done it sooner!!

I am thinking of having another set made from Diamond plate material, that would look badazz too.

Chime in with all your opinions and suggestions!!

Peace
 

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20 Posts
gcextreme, I used steel nutserts inserted in the floorboard holes. They are flush on the top with the thread side toward the foot peg mount. Watch your torque on the bolts as you are pulling the nutsert the opposite way of of its intended use. I inserted the bolts from the bottom like the stock pegs are mounted and used stainless steel plate for the material of the floorboards.
 

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Glenn C.
Joined
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1,628 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Cool, i never thought about that. another option would be, instead of drilling clearance holes and countersinking them, just drill 2 13/64 holes and tap that to 1/4 and put your 1/4 bolts up from the bottom.

But i still like the way i did it, lol I will try to post pics up tomorrow!
 

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. . "Boricua" Rider . .
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133 Posts
I'd like to see those pics, cause I'm having a similar problem/situation.

In my case I am adapting Kuryakyn' Flame Floorboard covers to the stock pegs.
Already attached the floorboard covers to the pegs, but the situation is that I dont get enough clearance on both sides, due to the shift and brake levers.

So, maybe the pics or any info from you guys would help.

Tks,

BnG
 

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Super Moderator
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11,858 Posts
First off it is pointless to tap the pegs for the bolts because they are cast aluminum and will eventually fail or just break off.

The Boards I sold came with stainless steel 1/4-20 flat head bolts 1-3/4 inches long, an aircraft nylon lock nut for each , along with a nylon spacer that fit into the recess and the bottom of the peg to allow the nut to sit "on top" of the bottom the peg itself. If you use a longer bolt it may hit the brake lever on the right.

Out of 200 plus sets sold only one customer found he needed to reposition the brake lever , as his was adjusted too high and hit the bottom of the peg.


Normally I would not suggest tapping any aluminum to hold a bolt that is to basicly hold the weight of the rider unless you have at least an inch of material to work with. The added vibration from the bike along with the stress involved daily really calls for the use of steel to steel fasteners.

I am not aware of any issues regarding the shift lever other than those with extremely large boots having to re-train themselves on moving their foot to transition from downshifts to upshifts.

I can not give any advice on the Kury boards, but I think it is you kawabungie that should post photos of the problem you are having as I can not offer help without more info.


KM
 

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. . "Boricua" Rider . .
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133 Posts
My new Kury floorboards have been installed. I decided to bring them to a friend with more capabilities of fabricating and finally he installed them by cutting, bending and welding the OEM shift lever and adapted a brake lever from his 1700 Road Star.

Went to his home today and saw them already installed (they look pretty cool along with the Highway Hawk custom headlight). Maybe the mods will be finished for tomorrow, so I'll post some pics as soon as I'll bring the bike back to home.

This past 10 months or so have been a torture without her :BLAM: , and still need a couple weeks more to do a "light" preventive maintenance (engine pull off for stator and clutch change along with replacement of all known gaskets for the VN 750 to correct some minor oil leaks).

So, probably I'll be back again on the saddle :motorcycl in early July!

Yeahhhhh! :rockon:

BnG
 
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