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Discussion Starter #1
Vinny swallowed a front exhaust valve a few weeks ago. The piston took a bit of a beating, and the valve seat even more, so big brother and I will be replacing the piston, head, (gaskets of course) valve seals, blah blah blah.

Since the engine is off the frame and most areas of the bike are nicely accessible, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on other things we may want to at least take a look at while we're elbow deep in the muck - other than the area above the base-gasket. We're pretty well covered there.

So far, I've amassed the following expansive list:

1) Drive splines
2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
3) Relocate R/R
4) MCCT?

I know - not a very long list, but I'm not trying to rebuild the engine or undertake nice-to-have mods. Just looking for a few high-value/moderate-cost suggestions.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Vinny swallowed a front exhaust valve a few weeks ago. The piston took a bit of a beating, and the valve seat even more, so big brother and I will be replacing the piston, head, (gaskets of course) valve seals, blah blah blah.

Since the engine is off the frame and most areas of the bike are nicely accessible, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on other things we may want to at least take a look at while we're elbow deep in the muck - other than the area above the base-gasket. We're pretty well covered there.

So far, I've amassed the following expansive list:

1) Drive splines
2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
3) Relocate R/R
4) MCCT?

I know - not a very long list, but I'm not trying to rebuild the engine or undertake nice-to-have mods. Just looking for a few high-value/moderate-cost suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

I'd advise only to do the MCCT if you have good ears since there is no known way to adjust them if after putting one in finger tight you can't hear any noise. ;)

Service manual is of no help there since the bike comes with ACCTs.
 

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Vinny swallowed a front exhaust valve a few weeks ago. The piston took a bit of a beating, and the valve seat even more, so big brother and I will be replacing the piston, head, (gaskets of course) valve seals, blah blah blah.

Since the engine is off the frame and most areas of the bike are nicely accessible, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on other things we may want to at least take a look at while we're elbow deep in the muck - other than the area above the base-gasket. We're pretty well covered there.

So far, I've amassed the following expansive list:

1) Drive splines
2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
3) Relocate R/R
4) MCCT?

I know - not a very long list, but I'm not trying to rebuild the engine or undertake nice-to-have mods. Just looking for a few high-value/moderate-cost suggestions.

Thanks in advance.
engine already out.. do the balancers!!! (technically balance dampers)

drive splines.. thats a check and lube if needed.. replace with good used parts if needed (they aint cheap to buy new)

nothing wrong with relocating the R/R. do it if ya want.

MCCT conversion.. personal preference there. I would say do it while its out, but its not hard to do with engine in place either.
 

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2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.
- :smiley_th - :smiley_th -
 

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I'll skim back through my list to see if I've planned to replace anything you're not covering and vice versa.

For what it's worth, Lance328 used to recommend replacing the valve stem seals with viton units while the heads were apart. They're still available on eBay here:
Kawasaki VN750 VN 750 Vulcan Valve Seals Viton | eBay


Edit...
Okay, here are some things I've done or will do while things were apart:
Inspect and replace coolant hoses as needed
Replace all coolant hose o-rings
Inspect and repair the wiring harness as needed
Rebuild the starter (the kit's only $10-15)
Replace the stator (or set yourself up for future replacements with an adapter plate so you can do so by removing the outer cover)
Install a new thermostat (there's a compatible automotive thermostat but I didn't keep my notes on which so you'll have to search the forums)
Adjust the coil pickup gap
Drill the clutch basket to reduce the chance of coffee grinder noise
Replace the water pump mechanical seal
If you're splitting the case, check the oil pump chain

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.
If I'm reading correctly, this would involve removing the right-side cover to be able to hold the right-hand balancer bolt/shaft so that I can remove the left-gear to reach the dampers. Is that the extent of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll skim back through my list to see if I've planned to replace anything you're not covering and vice versa.

For what it's worth, Lance328 used to recommend replacing the valve stem seals with viton units while the heads were apart. They're still available on eBay here:
Kawasaki VN750 VN 750 Vulcan Valve Seals Viton | eBay


Edit...
Okay, here are some things I've done or will do while things were apart:
Inspect and replace coolant hoses as needed
Replace all coolant hose o-rings
Inspect and repair the wiring harness as needed
Rebuild the starter (the kit's only $10-15)
Replace the stator (or set yourself up for future replacements with an adapter plate so you can do so by removing the outer cover)
Install a new thermostat (there's a compatible automotive thermostat but I didn't keep my notes on which so you'll have to search the forums)
Adjust the coil pickup gap
Drill the clutch basket to reduce the chance of coffee grinder noise
Replace the water pump mechanical seal
If you're splitting the case, check the oil pump chain

Hope that helps.
Thanks for the feedback!
 

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If I'm reading correctly, this would involve removing the right-side cover to be able to hold the right-hand balancer bolt/shaft so that I can remove the left-gear to reach the dampers. Is that the extent of it?
No, it's all done from the left side.

Can hold with a strap wrench on the rotor, but most use a penny or rag stuck in the gear teeth. I used pennies, no problem, it bends the penny 90°, but no sweat.

The damper gear bolt is left hand threads and has Loctite on it.

Download the manual from here if you need one.
 

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The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.
based on what i read ( thanks to you and others ) about tires... 6 years and the rubber is shot regardless of how far they travelled... well... if those dampers are rubber... just makes sense... may as well do them while in there.

Just curious though... has anyone ever used dampers made out of a better material than rubber?
 

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These aren't just the usual black rubber. They're sort of brown maybe, with some sort of fiber or something embedded.

Three of them have a bit of a tooth that sticks up around the edge, two are smooth. (from memory so...)
 

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These aren't just the usual black rubber. They're sort of brown maybe, with some sort of fiber or something embedded.

Three of them have a bit of a tooth that sticks up around the edge, two are smooth. (from memory so...)
your memory is better than the manual though ( in many instances ) and the manual has a lot of errors in places. Not knocking it, just saying. There are a lot of things that are intentionally left out of the manual so people are forced to buy parts.

Since i am heading there ( as soon as possible ) into the engine myself, am HOPING to find the bearing problem before needing to split the case. ( or whatever the damage was ). So did i comprehend you correctly up above to mean that the dampers can be changed without splitting the case?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll skim back through my list to see if I've planned to replace anything you're not covering and vice versa.

For what it's worth, Lance328 used to recommend replacing the valve stem seals with viton units while the heads were apart. They're still available on eBay here:
Kawasaki VN750 VN 750 Vulcan Valve Seals Viton | eBay


Edit...
Okay, here are some things I've done or will do while things were apart:
Inspect and replace coolant hoses as needed
Replace all coolant hose o-rings
Inspect and repair the wiring harness as needed
Rebuild the starter (the kit's only $10-15)
Replace the stator (or set yourself up for future replacements with an adapter plate so you can do so by removing the outer cover)
Install a new thermostat (there's a compatible automotive thermostat but I didn't keep my notes on which so you'll have to search the forums)
Adjust the coil pickup gap
Drill the clutch basket to reduce the chance of coffee grinder noise
Replace the water pump mechanical seal
If you're splitting the case, check the oil pump chain

Hope that helps.
Thanks for the feedback. Good to know the starter can be rebuilt, as I think there might be an issue with mine.
 

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You have to pull or tilt the engine to get the left side cover off. I tilted mine.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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These aren't just the usual black rubber. They're sort of brown maybe, with some sort of fiber or something embedded.

Three of them have a bit of a tooth that sticks up around the edge, two are smooth. (from memory so...)
When I get time I'll take pics of the ones you gave me
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Killing birds is bad.I'd rather kill two stones with one bird(yes I'm THAT good;))
 
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