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2014 KLR 650!
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opened up the igniter box and found this. its showing continuity but i'm not sure what the resistance should be and i'm sure if enough of the wire is corroded it would affect the resistance.
I'm no Jed Clampet, but that bubbling crude sht doesn't look right to me at all. :itchy-scr
 

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I'm no Jed Clampet, but that bubbling crude sht doesn't look right to me at all. :itchy-scr
that is just adhesive dripped over components to lock them in place....vibration can weaken and break component legs.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
we'll find out once i get the new one. there could always be a gremlin hiding somewhere else. i'm just trying to find a way to rationalize buying new floats and needles. i think they were original. at least i wont have to worry about them for at least another 18k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
got the new to me igniter in today. i'm kind of more confused now. i could not get clear readings while checking the resistance in a few spots. it would show a reading for a second then go to infinity. i assume its just connectivity issues with my probes. also before i started it up i checked the voltage at the rear coil.

it shows 10v and then dropped to .2v. out of curiosity i kept the negative probe on the green wire and moved the positive probe to the positive battery terminal and the volts rose albeit very slowly.

the front held at 11.5. it started right up though and idled for10 minutes or so. the fan eventually kicked on so i shut it off so it wouldnt get too hot. its been raining on and off for the past week and i'm not gonna ride in that crap.

so does any of this make sense? could some one check the voltage at their rear coil and report the results? i suppose i could have suffered an igniter failure and need to do the coil mod as well. usually i'm a fan of two for one specials.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
when i check the red wires on the coil to the negative battery terminal i get 12v. my question is with checking the power and signal wires to each coil. on the front red and black i get 11.5v on the rear red and green i get a random voltage that drops to around .2v each time. are those wires even on the check list or does checking this have no purpose.
 

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on the rear red and green i get a random voltage that drops to around .2v each time. are those wires even on the check list or does checking this have no purpose.
That cylinder is close to firing. The ignitor furnishes ground to the coils.

12.0+ volts at the R wires is what to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
It seems to be working fine now. I put fifty miles on it yesterday. I just need to dial in the mixture screws. It was sputtering at high rpms when the engine got hot. I had to sit in some traffic for a few minutes and the fan was on when I finally got top take off it was sputtering but seemed to go away once she cooled down. I'll richen it up and see if that helps. I also sealed the igniter with silicone. Hopefully this one won't rust out.
 

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just to verify...it was the IC ignitor that was bad...correct?

in my experience, people have had bad readings and yet it still worked, so I am not convinced that the test procedures in the manual are always definitive....but as a general rule, many of the test points are valid.

Just curious what you are doing with the old parts that are bad.


in any event...glad you are up and running again!
 

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Discussion Starter #71
yes the igniter was bad. rust on metal isnt usually a sign of prosperity. i swapped the new and old one out numerous times to make sure. even if the tests are not reliable, the flow chart in the manual is fairly straight forward. also there's only a handful of parts included in the ignition system. pick up coils, igniter, ignition coils, spark plug wires, spark plugs.

i still have the igniter i added more solder to some of the questionable connections but alas, still no spark of life. are you asking because you want it?
 
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