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Discussion Starter #21
Had a great ride with some good friends today, probably one of the last as the wet autumn descends on western Washington. Our threesome rode along with about thirty other bikes on a poker run for a few miles which was fun :)

Got my license plate moved. Cut and welded a new mounting bracket for it since the 'universal' one it came with didn't fit well. Not going to show you the weld, it was my first one. It's an ugly weld, but it's mine ;) I need to weld a rib on the bracket, it was doing a bobble head kind of thing on the ride today :D





In a couple of weeks the real work begins! Cut down the seat even more, cut off the frame that supports the passenger, shorten the fender (if I can get rid of all the holes and weird geometry from the stuff I'm removing) or get a new one.


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Discussion Starter #22
I guess the shallow end is becoming the deep end rather quickly! Today marks the first irreversible mod to the bike: the first frame cut for the bobber project! Up until this point all I would have needed to put her back to stock glory was a seat. No going back now!



The seat will get a bit of padding, but not much. The frame will get cut back farther once I get my lights in the mail and know exactly where to cut to mount those. I'm going to try to use the existing mounting point to mount the shortened fender, we'll see if that works out.

I'd like to paint the rear hub assembly while I have the back end all tore apart. Anybody painted theirs before?



The axle is in the middle and obviously the suspension mount at 11 o clock, but I don't know what all the bolts and whatnot are at 2, 3, and 6 o clock. Can I partially or fully remove those for painting? I certainly don't want to paint them closed.

Thoughts and advice welcomed!

Landy


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3 and 6 are your gear oil access and drain plug 3 access 6 drain plug. I have painted my hub and motor using vht paint with 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch artist brush. sand with wet sand 15 to 2000 paper between coats. puddle the paint on tin foil and it works fine use small amounts of paint at a time if you go this route.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
3 and 6 are your gear oil access and drain plug 3 access 6 drain plug. I have painted my hub and motor using vht paint with 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch artist brush. sand with wet sand 15 to 2000 paper between coats. puddle the paint on tin foil and it works fine use small amounts of paint at a time if you go this route.
Thanks, Brooklyn! Do you mean that you hand painted yours on the bike, so you didn't want to spray it? Or that you hand painted it to avoid painting the bolts and whatnot shut?

Could I just back those bolts out a bit to tape them off and then spray?

Anyone know what the little hex head bolt is at 2 o'clock?
 

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The hex head bolt is probably installed in assembly and never needs to be removed again. You can just go ahead and change the gear oil in there and paint 'em shut, you won't have to go back in for years to come.

If you're that worried, though, yeah screw them out slightly and then tighten again after the paint has cured. Wrenches and sockets are gonna marr the paint on those anyhow, and paint isn't gonna stick the small or big ones badly enough to keep them hostage forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well, after a long winter with the bike tore apart in the garage, got her buttoned up and took her out for a spin tonight. Finally got her street legal again! (Assuming a bare seat pan duct taped to the frame is street legal!)
I’ve got a date with a MIG on Saturday to weld on the seat mounts and start welding up the frame in the back. Fun times!




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Discussion Starter #28
Looking good. What lights did you use?

Thanks!

The lights are Electraglide OEM replacements with the Kuryakyn bezels (I wouldn’t recommend, btw. Look cool, but I expect them to break at some point)


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Thanks!

The lights are Electraglide OEM replacements with the Kuryakyn bezels (I wouldn’t recommend, btw. Look cool, but I expect them to break at some point)


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Well that's a cryin' shame. At least they'll look sexy until they don't!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So an update on the build: got the rear end pretty much finished. Welded the frame shut, cut out the old tail light bracket and welded a plate back in its place. Got the seat pan finished up and the original foam cut down to where I want it. Decided to ride around this summer with black duct tape covering the seat to make sure I like it before exerting the effort/cash to make a proper vinyl cover.



I have a big ride (all the way around Mt Rainier from Bremerton) with some riding buddies this weekend, so I’ve been working on making my little bobber project a little more comfortable on a long ride. The back rest is still in prototype mode. Need to adjust it to be a little less straight up and down. The backrest has forced a seat pan rebuild if I want to keep it (I’m only $15 and a day of metalworking with a buddy into it). The windscreen was a good amazon find at $40. Keeps the wind off my chest but does increase wind noise a bit.



Added the usb voltmeter combo yesterday. Some of the readings concern me a bit, but not sure if they are low because of where I wired it in. It’s connected to the front right turn signal running light lead (I wanted it off when the ignition was off since it has the digital readout for the voltmeter). It reads low 11s when shut off and fully charged (I usually keep it on a tender). It reads 12.9-13.1 when up to speed. I did the blue wire mod and two wire mod this morning which actually decreased the at speed voltage to 12.7-12.9. Thoughts? I don’t have a multimeter to check the charge at the battery, but I’m hoping that I’m getting such low numbers because I’ve got the voltmeter hooked up so far downstream.




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Looking sweet

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Try to get your hands on a voltmeter to verify your gauge reading, but it's obviously reading low or getting low volts from that location. "Low 11s" would be totally dead, but we know better since it starts up and rides.

I like those rear turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Looking sweet
Thanks, man!

Try to get your hands on a voltmeter to verify your gauge reading, but it's obviously reading low or getting low volts from that location. "Low 11s" would be totally dead, but we know better since it starts up and rides.

I like those rear turns.
Already got one from amazon, should be here Thursday. I was pretty sure I was getting low reads ;) So will this voltmeter be of any use? If I figure out the difference between "true" and "read", is it a linear progression (i.e. always reads 1v lower than true)? Or will I need to wire it in somewhere else and figure out another way to have it not draw power when the ignition is off?
 

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Thanks, man!



Already got one from amazon, should be here Thursday. I was pretty sure I was getting low reads ;) So will this voltmeter be of any use? If I figure out the difference between "true" and "read", is it a linear progression (i.e. always reads 1v lower than true)? Or will I need to wire it in somewhere else and figure out another way to have it not draw power when the ignition is off?
I would think the difference would be linear but you really have no way of knowing for sure unless you had a variable voltage source you could turn up and down to compare it to.
 

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The accessory leads behind the right side cover may be a better source if it turns out the voltage drop is at the turn signals.

On mine, I connected the positive to the battery, and ran the negative side through a toggle switch. Make sure it's waterproof if you do a switch, mine wasn't and corroded in 3-4 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Got the handheld voltmeter today, much happier with the new readings. 13.1 off, 13.8 at 6k rpms (I don’t think I need to be actually cruising; I can just have it in N and rev it up, right?) I measured from the battery tender leads, which is hooked directly the the battery of course, and should give me a pretty good reading.

The unfortunate part is that the difference between readings at the battery and readings where the voltmeter on my bike is currently installed is not linear. I guess I just have to make an educated guess and if the voltage drops below what the voltmeter normally reads to start checking things out....


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Do you have a battery tender lead wired up to the battery? If so, just get a battery tender cable and use that for your voltmeter. I just disconnect the voltmeter when I am using the tender, and hook it back up when I'm ready for a ride
 
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