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Discussion Starter #1
I am not charging again. I have a new Shindengen MOSFET and a TPE Stator. I l have removed the engine three times now and put it back in. The first two times the charging system was working great.. I just had some leaks so had to dismount to fix those. Now finally on the third time I have no leaks .. AND my with a meter across the terminals I was getting around 13.5 V with throttle. Just now it freakin died on me. Pushed it back to my garage and voila it wont start because the battery is just reading like 12.2 and it wont go above 12.4 with throttle. I swear there is someone who hates me up there. I guess I just have to run through the RR and Stator tests again once ... and take it in.
 

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1986 VN750
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Check all your grounds etc. It's probably a loose wire..

Run through your tests to confirm but I'm betting it's just something loose or disconnected.
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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I agree that you should check each and every connection thoroughly before removing the engine again. Use the special grease on each connection and you will come across the problem I am sure. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I mean im getting charging voltage when measured out of the two mosfet wires but not across the battery terminals. What could be causing the voltage loss. Like I connect the mosfet to just a battery and it charges it.
 

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Sparky!!!
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so out of the R/R you are getting 14.5 Volts but the 14.5 volts aren't reaching your battery? you have a bad connection, or broken wire/s
 

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Its a new battery. Its not the MOSFET wires since Im gettn the 14.5 at the end of them. Something else in the electrical system is draining ~2 V somehow. I already know I have a bad kickstand switch but thats whatever. But something somewhere is building up resistance I think. The terminal connections are solid too.
 

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Sounds like a wet cell battery, my AGM would have started at that voltage.. 12.2 .. It even started at 11.5v.

Have you tried the headlight trigger bypass? If you read the posts on it, it's supposed to get you another volt or two if the voltage is down, your headlight will just come on as soon as you turn the key to on. Not a big deal with a good battery.

I believe it's the 8-pin connector, move the blue wire to the only empty hole. A small screwdriver is needed to unlock the spade in the connector. Double check me on that, might be the 10-pin connector. I have it done on mine, I just can't remember 'stuff'.

If you still have problems, it might pay to have the battery load tested and amp draw checked on the starter.
 

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1986 VN750
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How is your MOSFET connected? You should have it go direct from stator to MOSFET then to battery, bypassing the stock harness.

If it is and you're losing 2v randomly then I'm going to have to guess you have a short somewhere. I'd work front to back following the wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea I did the headlight trigger bypass... as in moved that blue wire and the headlight comes on with the key to on. I havnt been able to measure amperage cuz that part of my multimeter is broke.
 

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Can you get to a parts store, they should be able to check the battery and starter, on the bike.

I doubt you're close, but I would help you out if you were. If you're in WV or Ohio, shoot me a PM if you don't want to post it.

True, the MOSFET hot and ground should go straight to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes the MOSFET has its own wiring and goes right to the battery. I am in the Northern Virginia area 5 miles outside of DC.
 

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Ooh, meet me at Mt Storm? Sorry, jokes aren't funny when your bike is down.

The battery is a problem, or something connected to it is drawing your volts down. You have good voltage when the r/r is disconnected, low volts when connected to the batt.

I wonder if pulling fuses and checking voltage after each one, would help narrow it down? Or, disconnect certain items, headlight, turn sigs, etc, one at a time, and watch voltage?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Alrite so I guess I work front to back. Pop off the gas tank and the seat and I should be able to get to most stuff. So basically Im just checking for continuity , as in voltage is passing through each wire at each connection.
 

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You want to see if a disconnect makes the voltage at the battery come back up to normal. As soon as it does, there's the problem child. In that case, the problem is the item itself, or the wiring running to it.
 

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If I understand what you said at the start, you have the reg/rec connected correctly to the stator, and the reg/rec output hard wired directly to the battery. You have a good charging voltage of just over 14 volts out of the regulator and only standing battery voltage of about 12.2 at the battery, all this with the engine running. I would suggest there is a high resistance in the wire between the regulator output and the battery or the ground/earth from the regulator. Could be a bad crimp/solder whatever. What you seem to be describing is a voltage drop of several volts between the regulator and the battery. I would expect it to be a wire or a connection that looks fine, but electrically is not. If I have misunderstood your problem just ignore all this. I do hope you find the problem without having to do too much.
 
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