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Discussion Starter #1
Will be putting in my new Electrosport stator & R/R soon. Just for grits & shins I performed some electrical tests on my brand new R/R. I followed the fault finding guide on E-sports wsite. It passed the diode tests with flying colors, all within specs.

Next I performed the Ma Kaw/Clymer resistance tests. I performed all 30 pairs of tests with an ANALOG tester. Everything was within specs except for 2 measurements. They are:

G(-) to M(+) measured INFINITY (should be 1-5k ohm)
G(-) to B(+) measured 6 on (X100) (should be .4-2K ohm)
..................measured 11 on (X10)
..................measured 3.2 on (X1k)

The meter was "zeroed" between each setting change and test. Soooo...

1) Is it ok?
2) Does it matter it has never been used, warmed up, or tested off the bike?

I won't even go into how confusing the different test results are, the math doesn't make sense to me-that will be another thread titled "Resistance, Reshmistance"

Please help Electric Gurus! Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Roger this?

Thanks pappa. Does anyone want to "second that emotion"? Yes I'm talking to you, Flitecontrol, Sunpa, Slimvulcanrider and Fergy, etc. C'mon OHC I know you've got a thread to reference!:smiley_th -jim
 

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Whew, this is a lot of pressure! I'm not an electrical guru by any means, but my first thought when reading your test results was the same as pappa. I'm sure the readings on an OEM part would be the specs KAW is stating, and another mfg's part would read a little different. My guess is that the two readings you got that were not in spec aren't anything that will change the way the part works. But it's just a guess! (should come with a disclaimer!) :)

I replaced an r/r on one of my KZ's years ago after going through the fault finding flow chart, and never even tested the new one. It just worked. I would put the new one on and expect it to work. That's me though...
 

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You are giving me too much credit when you call me an electrical guru! lol

I would tend to agree with pappa and fergy though. A different manufacturer may have slightly different specs.

The Cylmer manual recommends the ignition coils be warm before resistance testing, so in like manner I recommend taking your wife`s blow dryer and warming the r/r, then retest and see if the G to M and G to B results are closer to the Kaw specs.

BTW, after reading several threads about the Shindegen/mosfet r/r over the past several months, that is the one I will install if my original ever fails me.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/32290153/Shindegen-Regulator-Rectifier-Install
 

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First off, I don't like the so-called MAKAWA tests.. the readings are too vauge and even a brand new regulator fails these tests. I agree with Papa on this one...

I have fouund the better test is to make sure that the R/R is producing 12.5 volts at idle and climbs up to 14.0-14.5 Volts at 5000 rpm... that is on a fully charged battery. bench testing is ok, but not always very accurate. I hope this helps you.
 

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Different manufacturer, different readings. Nothing to worry about.
I agree with pappa also.

Good idea though in checking out your new R/R before installation.
Did you check your new stator resistance also?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
New E-sport stator tests

Yes sunpa, infinite resistance to ground (all three). Don't have a R X 1 setting, but on R X 10 all three lead to lead measurements are ~0.1 ohms. Thanks everyone for your advice.

I'm with you, slim. I think resistance tests on R/R's is inconclusive. :mad:

-jim
 
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