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Seems like the meter may read a bit low. Maybe get the parts store to check one of the two batteries? Borrow a meter?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I just took a brand new AA Duracell battery and read 1.61 on my newer better multimeter and got the exact same 1.61 on my very crappy old multimeter.
 

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Newer meter agrees on the bike/car batteries?

1.61 is just right for a new 1.5v.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Yes the newer one is the one that I gave the bike/car numbers. I’m going back to my friends garage tomorrow. Do you think it could be the stator? I’m thinking if I can figure out why those wires are getting so hot and solve the hot wire problem then I will be good. Hoping! I’m so sick of this but thanks for bearing with me.
 

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The splice I mentioned should be inside the wad of tape you mentioned. If it's done wrong, it could create resistance and maybe heat. Does the wad of tape get hot?

I questioned the meter because I'm surprised it starts with 12.3v.

If the stator truly checks out good, I would remove the tape and see if the splice needs redone.

Originally, the factory.had bullet connectors on the three stator wires where this splice should be now. Those bullet connectors would get hot,. make high resistance, so everyone has been removing the bullet connectors and doing a soldered splice.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Awesome thanks! I will start at it tomorrow with going over these exact steps with my friend and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
And yes that is where it gets very hot. Could that heat/ resistance potentially be the cause of my problem with the charging issue?
 

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And yes that is where it gets very hot. Could that heat/ resistance potentially be the cause of my problem with the charging issue?

Yes, it had the same.problem with the bullet connectors. Maybe their splice isn't done well.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So I took it to my friends shop and I’ve been replaying him all of our problems and such. We found the 3 yellow wires that were getting hot were basically shredding and mangled with exposed wire under the tape. He fixed all of that. Got new wire and connected it all properly and such. Put the new R/R under the battery. Did the stator tests. They all checked out. But the readings are still freakishly low. From testing and playing with the light without the engine running we got the battery down to 11.8. Still starts right up. He installed a switch on the headlight so now I can have it off when I start the bike. It’s idling at about 12.67 with the light off and about 12.46 with it on. Revved it for a little bit and now the bike is sitting at 12.20. So it charged a little bit. I don’t know this is frustrating as hell. The numbers don’t make sense that it would even start and it’s starting everytime no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Seems to be working perfect now! Idling at 13 revving high into the 14s. Off at 12.85 after 2 45minute rides!! Installed a switch for the headlight too. Thanks yallllll
 

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Seems to be working perfect now! Idling at 13 revving high into the 14s. Off at 12.85 after 2 45minute rides!! Installed a switch for the headlight too. Thanks yallllll

Definitely much better numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
For some reason I can’t post a new thread on my phone but I can comment... maybe you could link me to a similar thread to this question:

So 2 days ago I rode it about 100 miles. All was good except out of nowhere in neutral at a red light the tac would just drop after being sit perfect at 1100. Drop and stall out. So when I got home I took it to my friend and it wouldn’t do it at all. So I dunno. Then yesterday I’m driving on the express way just for a couple miles and it died! The oil light flashed on and it left me stranded. Oil level didn’t seem low but it was hard to tell it was so bright and very hot out. So my friend brought me oil. I put in a whole quart. Nothing. Then another friend came to get me And we tried starting it again. It sounded like it wanted to start all of a sudden and finally on the 3rd try it did. And it rode perfect. The only thing my friend did what hook the wire underneath which is the oil light wire in better. Could that have what stalled it out by some trigger? Doesn’t make sense. Anyways, I’m going to change the oil today. Is the ignition coil not working when it’s too hot? Engine temp seems fine. Thanks sorry for posting this here.
 

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Wouldn't cause it to stall. Sort of sounds like POOGS. Next time it stalls open then close the gas cap and try to start.

There's pinned threads about POOGS.
 

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Yup sounds like POOGS

Just a clarification of the wires "underneath " the engine. The oil pressure switch is at the front of the engine near oil filter, the neutral switch is on back of engine near center (left to right) down low (a inch or 3 from bottom). Those are only 2 wires near bottom... wires from stator and pickup coils may run along the lower left side but no connector there
 

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Any time the engine is stopped the oil light will come on, so that's not necessarily an indicator that there's something wrong with the oil. If the engine is running and the light comes on, pull over!
Be cautious of overfilling the oil, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
So there tube on the right hand side of the bike. It comes down perpendicular to the ground from about right around the middle of the gas tank. It wasn’t attached to anything but there’s a spot on a carb to attach it to. Is it supposed to be hanging in the wind or attached? Not sure how to post a vid but I made a quick 30sec vid showing it. Thanks
 

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So there tube on the right hand side of the bike. It comes down perpendicular to the ground from about right around the middle of the gas tank. It wasn’t attached to anything but there’s a spot on a carb to attach it to. Is it supposed to be hanging in the wind or attached? Not sure how to post a vid but I made a quick 30sec vid showing it. Thanks
Have to put the video on YouTube or Flickr and paste the link here.

Not sure what hose you're meaning. Need a pic maybe. On the carb you might be looking at the drain outlet, which doesn't normally have a hose.

At first I thought maybe you were talking about the drain hose from the airbox, that's on the right side of the radiator shroud, hanging down, about 1/4" diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I made a video! It’s really crappy and I’m pretty sure it’s not supposed to be plugged in but here ya go. Thanks

 

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I'd be willing to bet that hose is your carb vent hose. It should be open to air (definitely not put on that protrusion you showed in your video), and is usually inserted into a small retaining hole on the back of the air pods. Mine is tucked into the oil lines running up the rear cylinder. As long as it is out of turbulent air, you're fine. If air blows on it it can cause fuel supply/mix ratio problems while riding.
 
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