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If it was wiring, might not be a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok so... I went over to my friends garage yesterday. We tested the stator and it’s fine. The AC tests were at like 54 for all 3. So... I had the R/R zip tied to the side of the battery. He said what the hell do you have going on there? I said that’s how the other person had it. So then I noticed the stock R/R under the battery so we plugged it in and was getting some pretty good numbers. Over 13.4 revving and resting at about 12.75. Then I rode it home and with the engine off it was at 12.56. Today I did some revving tests and saw over 14 for the first time. Would rev it and it would get to 14.15 or so, lay off the throttle it would just to 14.48 and the. Idle at 13.7. The. I noticed within a 60 second period it would go in range from 12.15 to 13.45 while idling. So I turned it off and the battery still rested at 12.56. Which left me pretty satisfied. So I just took it for a spin and after the meter read 12.41 with it off. Then I did some revving tests and stuff and it would barely get past 12.0 from revving it. I shut it off and now it’s at 12.37 looks like it might get to 12.40. So.... my friends said before we moved the wiring clip form new R/R to old are “the R/R has to be grounded. That’s why it’s screwed on.” I just zip tied it through those holes on the side but my job was just a copy car job of how I got the bike and it was working fine that way. So I’m still a bit baffled but feel like I solved something maybe. Think putting the new R/R back under the batter where it’s supposed to be will solve my problems? All of these tests were on the old R/R under the battery where it at first seemed to magically solve all my problems but there must’ve been a reason it wasn’t connected to it in the first place. Thanks
 

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The RR should be grounded through the wiring and should work hanging in mid-air.

The stator should be tested both cold and hot. Because the windings can expand and shift to the point of grounding out. I suspect it's failing after it warms up.

Only testing will say for sure. Get it fully warmed up and immediately test the stator again. This includes all stator tests... AC volts, ohms, and continuity to ground (should be none).
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok so when you say cold and hot. For the 2 tests with the bike off should I warm it up with the plug plugged into the R/R while it’s warming and then pull it out, or just leave it out while it’s running until bike warms up?
 

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You should warm it up with everything connected, then do ALL the tests. ... with RR disconnected.

The way I read your post, it looked like it was charging before the engine warmed up. After you took a ride, it warmed up and quit charging... Because the battery was lower after the ride and charge output was nothing.

12.5v is just battery voltage, you have to get at least 13v (engine running) to be getting a charge.
 

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A good battery voltage directly across the terminals should be 12.6-12.8 with the bike off. 12.4 to 12.5 although doesn’t seem like much is a sign of a battery that’s not really 100%. If the bike is very hot then the fan will kick in and you’ll see the voltage drop while it runs. But it should come back up when the bike is just sitting.
 

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A good battery voltage directly across the terminals should be 12.6-12.8 with the bike off. 12.4 to 12.5 although doesn’t seem like much is a sign of a battery that’s not really 100%. If the bike is very hot then the fan will kick in and you’ll see the voltage drop while it runs. But it should come back up when the bike is just sitting.
Good points!

"At what point is a 12v battery considered dead?"

"This is called the “open-cell” or “resting” voltage of the battery. Resting fully charged 12-volt batteries are around 12.8-12.9 volts, and flat dead ones are at 12.0 volts, so 12.4 volts on a resting battery means it's about 50% charged."
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks. So now I tried it again cold and couldn’t even get it over 12! With it off it went back to resting at 12.36. Did it again once it cooled down just because and same thing but now is resting at about 12.3. The battery is good. I just got a brand new AGM and had it tested. If I hooked it up to a charger once it charged it would be reading pretty good. I guess I’ll report back with those numbers. Now I’m really baffled of why I ever got over 14 today and had it idling at well over 13. There must be a reason that the original R/R wasn’t hooked up. I’m gonna go try my new (crappy) R/R and see if the charges at least go up when I rev it.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
If you got any leads on who this magical person may be I would be very appreciative. Thanks

Sorry I thought you meant you went to a mechanic. Not just saw a Vulcan riding around hahah D’oh!
 

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yea, it was just a passing rider on a vn750. to be precise, I was exiting Eastbound I-94 at 12 mile road when I seen it.

I did all my own work on the motorcycle (and still work on all my remaining vehicles). If we were closer together, I would be happy to help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So I noticed the stator wires were very hot but not right out of the stator. Farther down the line where this guy had them heat wrapped. I undid that stuff and now they’re all separate but not getting hot. Maybe they were touching each other in there. Also, I noticed the 6 wire box that goes into the R/R is really dirty and has this goo build up of crap in it. So I took the 3 yellow wires (of the 6) out of that box and cleaned them up. I guess I might as well do the other 3 as well. Could this be my problem? Anyone else have this goo in that box?
 

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Could the goo be dielectric grease?

What do the splices in the three stator wires look like? If they're chubby and bulky looking, maybe there's too much resistance in the splices?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I have no idea what dielectric grease is. And I don’t know where these splices are you are talking about. But, I think I might be on to something: so I realized everytime I think I solved the problem it’s when I’m getting good numbers right off the bat. Then as the engine runs and runs those good numbers start to be less and less consistent. I notice the 3 stator wires getting very hot still. I’ll try to post a picture. But it’s where someone covered some connectors with this red covering stuff. I think I have to go in there and replace the things that are getting really hot because once they get hot is when I starter to get numbers where the battery is no longer charging. However, somehow with all of these tests I’ve done in the past week it has started up every time. I haven’t used a charger this whole time and it’s very odd to me that it hasn’t died and continues to hold a charge around 12.3 with it off and starts on that every time. With the blue wire mod intact.
 

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Are you sure the voltmeter is accurate? Maybe check your car battery and see what it reads.

I can't see 12.3v cranking the starter.
 
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