· Super Moderator
I wouldn't worry about the oil change until it's due, there's some extra oil in the screen area but not enough to ruin the oil. It's good to monitor anything that shows up in the screen, like metal shavings, clutch material, and rubber from the damper bushings. A few bits of clutch material is normal.Excellent advice from you both, thank you! I've read and bookmarked the Grambo trick page for easy reference later.
So, let me add some details that might be relevant or might not:
- Once I reinstalled the cleaned and rebuilt carbs, I performed an oil change. However, I was unaware of the internal filter and only changed the external filter. Now aware of that internal filter, I will be performing another oil change once the weather cooperates. (No garage yet, but she's covered with a large heavy blanket, then two new tarps, and finally a bike cover.)
- I've been cranking the bike up at least once per week. The sound is recent. Probably only began within the last three or four idling sessions.
- At the end of each ride/idling session, I've been making it a habit to close the petcock and allowing the bike to idle until it burns through the fuel in the carbs. That sound definitely weakens and usually disappears after she's plenty warm.
- If this sound is indeed the ACCT, then I'm actually relieved. At just under 10k miles, I'd rather not have major engine problems.
Once again, thanks for the info and advice, fellas!
If you decide to go ahead and change oil early, I would give it a 200 mile Seafoam treatment in the oil. Or just do it 200 miles before your next oil change.
How is your fuel storage plan? Anything added to the fuel?
Old gas can create sticky intake valve stems. Seafoam in the gas can help that, along with stabilizing the gas and keeping the jets clean.