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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok, so I have developed an intermittant no crank issue. when it does crank, it cranks strong, and starts and runs good.

Already cleaned start button

Traced problem to possibly the junction box. when I get no crank, the wire from the start button (black if I recall, pin 11) gets battery voltage. No clicks, just dead silence.

there appears to be a relay internal to the j box, could it be going?

also, when no crank happens, I can whack in area of j box (left cover) and it will crank.

btw, bike is bone stock, other than MCCT's and AGM battery
 

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Could be the spades in the plugs on the Junction Box needing tightened up. I had this problem with the cooling fan.

Try holding the start button then lightly touching the wires on the two plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had to clean and stretch the springs in that daggum switch several times before it was right. There's not much else to the system.
yea, I seen that in the switch. but as I said, its working, as I get power to the pin 11 (if I recall correctly) on the j box. Just not getting power to the solenoid reliably.

I suppose as a last resort I can were the start button directly to the solenoid and therefore bypass all the safety switches
 

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2014 KLR 650!
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yea, I seen that in the switch. but as I said, its working, as I get power to the pin 11 (if I recall correctly) on the j box. Just not getting power to the solenoid reliably.

I suppose as a last resort I can were the start button directly to the solenoid and therefore bypass all the safety switches
From the wiring diagrams it looks like it's either the ignition switch or kill switch. Maybe a bad wire but unlikely.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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I havnt pulled my jb yet.. can they be repaired/rebuilt? or are they a sealed unit?
yes they are sealed but if you aint skeerd you can open it up and re place the relay it is a push thru soldered in relay
 

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I havnt pulled my jb yet.. can they be repaired/rebuilt? or are they a sealed unit?
they are intended to be a sealed unit, but you can carefully open them up and replace the relay if you have the skills to unsolder and replace them.

I have a spare that I have been swapping good ones to members for the cost of the relay. I then replace the relay and test it to keep around till the next member needs one.

there are several part numbers that are interchangeable with the VN750. The internals are all the same board and relays/diodes, but the part numbers reflect different fuses used in the fuse holder. The inside of the fuse compartment cover basically has a different sticker on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
may take you up on the offer kc. need to determine for sure if its internal or external to it..

im not afraid to do the job myself, but I cant afford to be without the bike, as its my only transporation. I have the skills and equipment to do the work, just dont need to cut my throat on a simple error during the rebuild of it (as I would likely do these days)
 

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Does it not crank at all? Does it turn over?

I had this same problem a few days ago when I got my bike, used.

It would start most of the time, but every now and then, usually when the engine is warmed, it wont start, it'll turn over, but wont start.
I did the coil pick-up mod, fixed it. Start right up easily and every time now, even with no choke most of the time!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
when its in fail mode, it will not crank at all,

not the same as the hot start issue you have.. several causes for that, search forums for pickup coil mod, and battery condition is also a huge factor in hot starts
 

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Sparky!!!
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Michaganteddybear, I think I am going to just call you Bear, I used to have the same exact symptoms as you are having.. traced it down to a bad ground from the batter box to engine... the bolt on the engine loosened up a little bit.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I doubt it since the main ground feed to the J box comes from the ground.. If there is a failing ground, then the relays inside the JB won't energize, so you won't see anything coming out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
got a work around installed for my intermittant no crank..

since everything (grounds and all) check out ok, and I am too cheap to get a j box... (thanks for the offer on the j box kc), I just added a bypass around the jbox starter relay.

jumper pin 11 (bk/rd) to pin 13 (yel/rd), and it bypasses all the switches and relays EXCEPT ingition switch and run/stop switch. Both must be on for crank to occur

that is all the 'safety' I need since I always start in neutral anyway due to my clutch drag.
 
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