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Drive less, ride more...
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
FYI--A friend passed the following info on to me...so for those interested in longer lasting, much more reliable bulbs with less current draw, or for those who otherwise require a bulb replacement in the speedo/tach gauges and/or instrument cluster, the following LED bulbs will actually work better than the original corresponding bulb part numbers:


Qty | Kaw part # | draw @12V | LED replacement | LED draw @12V
6 | 92069-1007 | 0.20 amps | WLED-W4 | 0.02 amps


The above are used for the instrument cluster--turn signals, high beam, neutral indicator, oil pressure, and headlamp failure.



Qty | Kaw part # | draw @12V | LED replacement | LED draw @12V
5 | 92069-1020 | 0.18 amps | 74-WHP | 0.01 amps


Those listed just above are used for the illumination of speedometer, tachometer, engine temperature, and the fuel gauge.



As of this writing, the above can be found on the internet at the following locations (and no, I don't work for--or with--this vendor)--

Webpage for 74-WHP bulbs:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&next=50#74-x


Webpage for WLED-W4 bulbs:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&cart_id=1471154.25646#WLED-x4

You should not have brightness issues with these LED replacement bulbs. If the new LED bulb you've ordered doesn't work when you first install it, simply unplug it...and reverse it (i.e., for bulb part #74-WHP, you may have initially installed it with the polarity reversed).

It's probably a really good idea to head off "Murphy's Law" and order a couple of spares for each size above that you need--just in case. With that said--you've been warned!

Also, this post is in reference to gauge/instrument cluster bulbs only, so replacement part numbers for license plate bulbs (or for turn signal bulbs, etc) are not furnished here.

NOTE: said friend of mine is not a part of this forum (although he probably should be), and so is not available to answer questions on replacement or installation of any bulbs (or anything else). I have not performed this operation yet, so I am not the best source of info on the subject, either. The above info is furnished strictly for the convenience of those already in (or interested in) the relevant bulb replacement process. If you have further technical questions on this topic, refer to your Kaw factory manual, a Clymer (or equivalent) manual (see pages 454-459 in Clymer for the wiring diagrams), and/or others on this forum to get your questions answered.

Hope this info helps.....:smiley_th
 

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Love My Baby
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Thanks Hawk. Always interested in reducing the electrical load on my baby. I' might order them "just in case".

FYI, checked the website and total order for full replacement is $32.99 including shipping.
 

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Premium Member
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508 Posts
Looks like a great website for all types of LED's, prices look pretty good too.
 

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I.T. Analyst, Alpha Geek
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I wouldn't use the #74 Kaw bulbs myself. The factory in our bikes are #24 and put out 1.6 candle power vs. the 0.06 of the 74's. They're also rated at 3x the life span of the 74's.
 

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Thanks Hawk. Always interested in reducing the electrical load on my baby. I' might order them "just in case".

FYI, checked the website and total order for full replacement is $32.99 including shipping.
You do realize that the alternator runs maximum current at all times into the reg/rec. By reducing the electrical draw you are increasing the amount of power the regulator has to dissipate in heat. There is an argument for running enough electrical load to effectively balance the draw from the alternator, allowing enough to charge the battery, thus reducing the thermal load on the regulator.
 

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Sparky!!!
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Gibo, Rick isn't on here much any more.. last time he logged in was in August.
Also I beg to differ about dropping the load... if done right it will in fact help out your system, but most of us installing LEDs to drop the load on the system are doing so because we are adding heated gear and power sucking electronics.
 

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Gibo, Rick isn't on here much any more.. last time he logged in was in August.
Also I beg to differ about dropping the load... if done right it will in fact help out your system, but most of us installing LEDs to drop the load on the system are doing so because we are adding heated gear and power sucking electronics.
I don't understand how dropping the load will help, perhaps I am missing something (it wouldn't be the first time). Fine if you need more capacity for extra gizzmos as I already stated. I would be interested in your thinking here.
 

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stator output = load of electrics + shunted (unused) power by the R/R

If you reduce loads without adding anything in it's place, you are effectively making the Regulator shunt more power....this will stress the R/R

If you add electrics without reducing consumed power elsewhere, you are in danger of overtaxing your Stator.

Either of the above is not a smart approach...you should calculate your power consumption and try to keep it balanced between actual use and shunted power by the R/R

That being said, if you upgrade to the MOSFET R/R, you have more capacity to "shunt" unused output of the stator since it does that more efficiently and creates less heat doing so. I do not know how much more capacity, so checking the specs of the R/R is necessary. in this scenario, you should NOT add more power consumption than the stator can supply.
 

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Sparky!!!
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KC hit it on the head.. I said if done propperly which is adding the MOFSET R/R...

Th Cappacity of the MOFSET R/R is based on the R/R you end up using. I am using a R/R off of a Honda CBR 1000RR wich is rated at 50 amps. our stock R/R is rated at 20 amps. I am also running a 50/110W headlight, heated grips, aftermarket CDI, and a few other electrical goodies, so I needed the larger R/R, but even with extra capacity of the R/R, I am taking my system to the max and need to drop the load some where, so the added bonus of going to all LEDs was a no brainer. It gave me the the 30% threshold where I should be.
 
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