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Discussion Starter #1
Question...


I'm wanting to put some heat/exhaust wraps on my bike. However, this is all very new to me so I'm wondering:


a) Who has done it

b) What all needs to come off the bike (some pieces seem welded to the frame and exhaust)

c) How to remove heat shields from exhaust (can't simply be unscrewed)
 

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I have wrapped mine but my pipes are not stock, I used the stock headers cut em off and welded tubes on. The stock heat shields and mufflers are mainly just clamps that are screwed on. Im thinking by the "some pieces welded to frame" you might be referring to the goats belly where all the exhaust collects. This is basically a joint in the pipes again should just be screws and clamps. If you're exhaust is stock theres really not any need to wrap because the only part you could wrap is the headers. Then the heat shields etc will not fit.
 

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Wareagle1970
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Question...


I'm wanting to put some heat/exhaust wraps on my bike. However, this is all very new to me so I'm wondering:


a) Who has done it

b) What all needs to come off the bike (some pieces seem welded to the frame and exhaust)

c) How to remove heat shields from exhaust (can't simply be unscrewed)
I have not done it, but if you have the stock pipes the heat shields have half moon clamps that hold them on to the pipes. The have a phillips head tip on them.
 

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Wareagle1970
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I have wrapped mine but my pipes are not stock, I used the stock headers cut em off and welded tubes on. The stock heat shields and mufflers are mainly just clamps that are screwed on. Im thinking by the "some pieces welded to frame" you might be referring to the goats belly where all the exhaust collects. This is basically a joint in the pipes again should just be screws and clamps. If you're exhaust is stock theres really not any need to wrap because the only part you could wrap is the headers. Then the heat shields etc will not fit.
Off-topic, but I like the seat on your bike.
 

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Off-topic, but I like the seat on your bike.
Thank you! It is actually the stock seat, just cut off the back and shaved the excess off. Used two nuts welded into the frame tubes and a small bracket to run the bolts through. It takes more work to get at the battery now but I feel it was worth it lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have wrapped mine but my pipes are not stock, I used the stock headers cut em off and welded tubes on. The stock heat shields and mufflers are mainly just clamps that are screwed on. Im thinking by the "some pieces welded to frame" you might be referring to the goats belly where all the exhaust collects. This is basically a joint in the pipes again should just be screws and clamps. If you're exhaust is stock theres really not any need to wrap because the only part you could wrap is the headers. Then the heat shields etc will not fit.


It's a cosmetic thing, mostly...just painted the bike satin black and the exhaust's chrome just sticks out too much.


Why could I only wrap the headers?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I dont know if the link will show or not but go to Kawasaki.com select owner info then parts diagrams then choose motorcycle, select your year make model etc and choose it then when it opens click on the 49 state model scroll down and choose mufflers. This should show why you cant wrap the stock exhaust. Theres too many sections as well as wrapping will increase the outer diameter of the pipes so the heat shields and clamps etc wouldnt fit.[/QUOTE]


Couldn't I just remove the heat shields, though? I could always do that and stop short of the clamps...

I may just have to rattle can it with high-temp paint :/
 

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Yeah you could do that it might look a little odd near the joints for the belly but after I wrapped mine I went over them with rustoleum matte black bbq paint. After about two years or so the paint is just now fading. You could spray the pipes but it would scratch easy and bake off leaving discoloration.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah you could do that it might look a little odd near the joints for the belly but after I wrapped mine I went over them with rustoleum matte black bbq paint. After about two years or so the paint is just now fading. You could spray the pipes but it would scratch easy and bake off leaving discoloration.
VHT makes a few products for exhaust painting (up to 2000 degrees)...even a clear coat. If you don't cure it, flaking and such occur but with proper curing it's supposed to last for quite a while.
 

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I think you should look into maybe removing the goats belly and attaching some pipe from the headers to the mufflers. That way you can wrap all the way to the muffler. I know some of the guys in the forum have done similar.
 

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Always worth a shot, Just in case I found this info about the belly : Quote:
The goats belly (premuffler)sits under the bike and is attached between the header pipes and the stock mufflers. It sits just below the R/R and can be a harmful heat source to the R/R. Removing the goats belly can done easily and for less then $20.
This is how I did mine:

These parts can be bought at any parts store but I got mine at Autozone. Here is what you need:

(2) 1 3/4" flexible exhaust tubing part # 17031

(2) packages of Victor muffler bandage part # V805

optional if needed- High-Temp red RTV silicone part # 26BR (can be bought at Wal-Mart)

(1) U-clamp (this should be included in the box of flexible tubing so check first before you buy one)

Save all four stock exhaust clamps

Now it's time to get started.

Remove the heat shields on both sides. Loosen the clamps on the mufflers. Remove each muffler by removing the mount bolt and twisting and pulling the muffler until it comes off. Set mufflers aside.

Now loosen the clamps on the header pipes. Remove the premuffler mount bolts. Remove the premuffler from the headers. I didn't need to remove the header pipes to do this but if you need to you will want to replace the gasket at the head.

Now all you should have left is the headers attached to the engine. Set aside the (4) stock clamps.

Now it's time to put it back together without the premuffler.

Mount the mufflers back on the bike. Measure the distance between inside of the muffler inlet where the tubing will bottom out, to the header where you want the tubing to end. Before cutting the exhaust tubing make sure it is compressed and not extented. This will make sure you have enough tubing and it won't be too short at the end.

The measurements will be different for each side so measure and cut each side separately.

Remove the mufflers form the bike. Bend the tabs of the muffler inlet out a little so the tubing will go in easier. Using the Muffler Bandage, wrap it around the tubing twice and cut. Now peel away a little of the film on the bandage that will need to be removed later to expose the sticky portion.
Using a hair dryer, heat up the end of the tubing that you are going to put the bandage on. Peel the film off the tape and wrap around the heated tube.

With the bandage on the tube it is going to be a tight fit getting the tube in the muffler inlet. Make sure the tabs are bent out enough so it doesn't rip the bandage when installing.

To install the tubing in the muffler I put the outlet of the muffler on a rug so it doesn't get damaged. I slid the tubing in the muffler as far as I could. I used a piece of wood and a hammer on the tubing end to tap the tubing in until it bottomed out. When you are done look inside the tubing and see if you can see any daylight. If you can then it is not in all the way. If it looks dark then you are bottomed out and will get a good seal.

Once you have the tubing installed on both muffler don't put the clamps on yet.

Mount the mufflers and insert the headers into the tubing. Now mark on the headers where the tubing ends. Remove the mufflers.

Using the muffler bandage, wrap it around the header pipe twice and cut. Using a hair dryer to heat up the header pipe install the bandage the same way you did on the tubing for the mufflers. Make sure you put the tape on about 1/2" from your mark so it will stick out the end of the tubing when installed.

Now it's time to permanantly install the mufflers. Slide one of the stock clamps over each tube and onto the muffler inlet tabs. Do not tighten.

Slide the tubing over the header pipes being careful not to rip the bandage. Mount the mufflers.

Take the U-clamp and put it in position on the left header pipe but do not tighten.

On the right header pipe you will need to use a stock clamp with a shim. The header pipe sits too close to the frame and a U-clamp won't fit, plus the heat shield won't go on with a U-clamp there. As a shim I used the left over stock clamp and cut the ends off of it. Put the shim in position with the stock clamp over it but do not tighten.

Everything should now be in place and the clamps ready to tighten. Install the heat shields and check the clamps positioning. Since you are using flexible tubing check the tilt of the mufflers to make sure it looks right with the shields.

When the clamp positioning and the muffler tilt is correct snug up the clamps so they will now stay in position. Remove the heat shields and tighten all the clamps.

The mod is now complete and it is time to test for leaks. Start the engine. Before things get too hot feel around the joints for leaks. To fix leaks you may just need to retighten a clamp or use the high temp silicone to fill in the gap. Use the silicone as directed.



Note: The Muffler Bandage will start smoking. This is normal and will go away once the bandage has gone through the heating process which will give it a permanant seal and bond.

When you are satisfied that there are no leaks, install the heat shields and enjoy your new louder deeper sound!

Note: After each of the next few rides, let the bike cool off then check the clamps for tightness. They tend to loosen up.

Maverick
 

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Chucklehead
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I wrapped mine but then I built everything after the stock headers. The only part not wrapped is the crossover pipe from the left side to the collector, but it's hard to notice that. Speaking as a retired painter, you don't want to try and paint over chrome. Nothing short of sandblasting the shine off will allow anything to stick for very long. I agree that you should remove the belly and install pipes instead then wrap.

Side note .... the stuff really stinks when it gets heated up for the first few times.
 

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Yes it does and it will smoke for a bit to it's normal.
 

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My wrap w/sporster XL muffler

 
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