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Discussion Starter #21
It's angle iron. The thickness was correct. What you use is on you. The frame is chromoly so pick a steel you have access to and go for it.
 

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I would never do that because I'm no welder! For me every time is like the first time. I probably only do 2 or 3 welds a year at most, so I'm very inconsistent. I need a neighbor with your skills. >:)

GDI
 

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Caltric Stator Fits KAWASAKI VN750 VN 750 VULCAN ....this the one you might use??From Amazon??$58 was the cost...??
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Caltric sells a stator by itself for $30 and a stator and RR together for $55ish. Don't use the connectors they come with. Too cheap to handle the amperage. Direct solder all wires. Replace at least the brake light with led and if possible the headlight and it should give no issues. The brake light causes brown outs at low rpm sitting at lights. The caltric stator doesn't put out under 1100 rpm
 

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I'ma gonna do it!!!That Caltec stator ...$30 bucks??Wow Ricks stators run $144.Amazon Caltric STATOR & GASKET Fits KAWASAKI 750 VN750 VN 750 VULCAN 1990-2006 MOTORCYCLE GASKET $61 bucks.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The Rick's puts out 14.8v at 1100 rpm, 14.1 at 950 rpm. It's oem quality IMO and I'm very happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The box the stator comes in just barely fits around it. No room inside for anything. If you permatex the gasket, no need to buy one.
 

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That's cool...for the price that's what I'll do...it should come with the GASKET...right?? :|
Don't usually get a gasket with them.

I traced the last one I bought, put it on card paper in case I need to make one. They're about $10 on ebay.

There's one on there for $5.50, looks like the right one: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=vn750+stator+cover+gasket&_sacat=6000&_sop=15

There is also a Caltric with a gasket on that list... $61

Look into the electrical mods to help your stator last longer. ;)
 

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Wow you cut all the way back to that rear mount....no way to cut a smidgen IN FRONT of the kickstand??I would really think those welds gotta be Superman strong cause the way you cut that frame the kickstand HAS to hold the weight of the bike,know what I mean? Also I am really confused...asked on this forum if I do the "frame cut" method and pull off that larger cover,was told NO NEED to take the smaller three screw cover off.But I see in pic yours is off(??)
 

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OK was asking about that "smaller" three screw cover...see its off in the pic.But was told NO NEED to remove(??)Raining here so might not get to the fix.
 

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I would really think those welds gotta be Superman strong cause the way you cut that frame the kickstand HAS to hold the weight of the bike,know what I mean?
you had better be a damn good welder to consider cutting and re-welding your structural frame back together. If you can't weld like a professional welder, I would never ever consider doing this. I've pulled the engine before, it sucks, but it beats causing structural damage to your motorcycle which could potentially prove fatal. That frame rail is absolutely critical to the structure of the bike.

was told NO NEED to take the smaller three screw cover off.
to replace the stator I don't think you need to remove it, it only allows access to the pickup coils.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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you had better be a damn good welder to consider cutting and re-welding your structural frame back together. If you can't weld like a professional welder, I would never ever consider doing this. I've pulled the engine before, it sucks, but it beats causing structural damage to your motorcycle which could potentially prove fatal. That frame rail is absolutely critical to the structure of the bike.


to replace the stator I don't think you need to remove it, it only allows access to the pickup coils.
It'll dance around like a combination of bad swingarm bearings, steering bearings and front wheel bearings. Do not ask me how I know ;) kinda like having sex with a meth whore on payday

Sent from my Z899VL using Tapatalk
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Still not a job for one who is not a good welder.if you know what you are doing,then ok.but is the extra time saved by not taking out your motor worth your life???

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"...is the extra time saved by not taking out your motor worth your life???" Yes,yes it is. So cut my frame today,took like a brief moment.Those (cover) screws are different lenghs,no mention of this either.Finally got that cover off there,needed a little convincing (tapping with hammer)....dropped that cover what to my surprise(!!)the Stator is attatched to the back side of the cover with some "funky" screws!!Also those suckers were tight!!Thought that the Stator would remain in that spot on the engine,had no idea it was screwed into the cover...no-one seemed to mention this here.Also there was a tiny Zip tie holding wires together in there needed cut,no-one mentions this either..
 

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"...is the extra time saved by not taking out your motor worth your life???" Yes,yes it is. So cut my frame today,took like a brief moment.Those (cover) screws are different lenghs,no mention of this either.Finally got that cover off there,needed a little convincing (tapping with hammer)....dropped that cover what to my surprise(!!)the Stator is attatched to the back side of the cover with some "funky" screws!!Also those suckers were tight!!Thought that the Stator would remain in that spot on the engine,had no idea it was screwed into the cover...no-one seemed to mention this here.Also there was a tiny Zip tie holding wires together in there needed cut,no-one mentions this either..
It's pretty much given that side case screws will be different lengths. Yup, be sure and put the zipties back.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
"...is the extra time saved by not taking out your motor worth your life???" Yes,yes it is. So cut my frame today,took like a brief moment.Those (cover) screws are different lenghs,no mention of this either.Finally got that cover off there,needed a little convincing (tapping with hammer)....dropped that cover what to my surprise(!!)the Stator is attatched to the back side of the cover with some "funky" screws!!Also those suckers were tight!!Thought that the Stator would remain in that spot on the engine,had no idea it was screwed into the cover...no-one seemed to mention this here.Also there was a tiny Zip tie holding wires together in there needed cut,no-one mentions this either..
It's been in every DIY I've ever read on here. Not sure which DIY you're using.

I've replaced my stator a few times, but used a DIY on here to do so the first time and it was very detailed. Given that you didn't know anything at all about the stator (how it's mounted, what it's mounted with, what it's mounted to.......) I'd gather you didn't read any DIY's on stator replacement. The one's on here are very handy for people working on their bikes. I put up a couple pictures of how I cut my frame, but didn't say a word about a single bolt on the bike relating to the stator because...... it's a thread on how I cut my frame. Not only is it not a DIY, it's not even a how to cut a frame. It's a pic of how I did mine. Make a thread on your project and show folks how it turns out and what you did. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #39
Unseasonably warm weather in the south for the last couple of days has given me the opportunity to get the bike out wash it and ride a little bit. it’s been put up since November. It is the one-year anniversary of doing this install and it has been absolutely fabulous. I’ve had no issues whatsoever and today I am pulling back some paint to check the structural integrity of the frame and there is no wear, no cracks, no issues whatsoever. I’m very happy with this mod. 10/10

Also on a sidenote this ricks stator has been absolutely flawless with over 14 V at idle and no degradation whatsoever since I installed it. I’ve put 6500 miles on it.

Clickable thumbs below.





 
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Discussion Starter #40
Time to put it up for the year. This is over a year and a half update. Ricks stator is a beast, totally awesome. Still crankin 14v below 1k rpm. Frame cut method is still the best mod I’ve done. I still don’t recommend it for anyone that doesn’t weld above a shadetree level, and in such case you don’t know which side of the fence you’re on...... if you have to ask how to do it, there’s your answer. :) definitely a viable solution for certain VN owners. I love it.
 

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